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Discussion Starter #1
My broadheads are always hitting about 10" to the right at 30 yards. Does this mean that I should move my rest to the left????

Thanks,
Jim
 

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Before you do anything, you should make sure you have a properly spined arrow.

To be that far out, either your arrow is spined incorrectly, or your centershot is way off.

what kind of bow, weight, etc. and what kind of arrows size, length, size of tip

how does your center shot look, is your arrow pretty close to center on the riser?
 

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Broadhead flight will vary with different heads, as they ALL have different flight characteristics. Providing your arrows are spined correctly, and vanes have an offset, centershot is accurate...they should fly straight.

If your arrows with broadheads are flying stright and true, without fishtailing or porpoising, and ARE grouping...move your sight slowly to the right.

Bear in mind that fixed blade heads NEED to be aligned to the shaft to a minimum of 5-7 thousands...anything over that and your bh's can fly like a curve ball. If you experience that or have a flyer arrow every now and then...your bh need to be aligned to the shafts...you can spin them, or use an arrow roller straightner, like Arizona Archerys version...they work grerat.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for all the help folks, here's the "skinny":
I'm shooting a Mathews Black Max II at about 68#. Using a 26.5" Vapor 4000 arrow with 100gn tips. They (broadheads) and field tips appear to fly fine. Both group fine, just that the broadheads group right of my field tips. I would like to get them grouping together rather than moving my site for one or the other.

Thanks again,
Jim
 

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I would bare shaft tune your bow if your bow is tuned to shoot a bare shaft at 20 or 30 yard broadheads if they are true will fly true . I have montec and mussy cuting the fletch on field tips.
 

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First I you must check center shot. After that is correct you might have to tweek the center shot a little to get the broadheads to fly with your field tip point. And always, I mean always have a drastic helical on your arrows. This makes the most difference

jb
 

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Try helical fletch. I prefer using 4 or 5" feathers with a good degree of helical for my fixed blade heads. It really saves on the headaches. Some guys don't like feathers due to the fact that they are less durable but the benefits of broadhead controll out weigh the durability issue in my opinion.

Nevertheless,
Be sure that you have the correct spined arrow and a good tune. Field tips will let you get away with murder. If you can shoot 2" groups at 40 yds, you probably have a decent tune and spine. Also don't be afraid to take off poundage or ad poundage as a tuning method. Sometimes proper flight per spine match can be accomplished fairly easy by adjusting poundage.

10" is a whole bunch of difference. I'll be willing to bet a combo of weight adjustment and helical fletch will get you where you want to be.
 

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I shoot straight feathers just to make sure my arrow fly’s perfect. Shooting Helvetica will help correct bad tuning so your BH ‘s hit. But I would re tune until you have perfect flight. Then anything you put on your arrow will hit where it should.
 

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I used to have the same problem with the 3 blade muzzy and 4" vane....I kept it simple and moved the sight....I think the field tips are off...I dont shoot 3D, I only hunt so I dont shoot field tips any more any way.
 

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Tufelhundin said:
I used to have the same problem with the 3 blade muzzy and 4" vane....I kept it simple and moved the sight....I think the field tips are off...I dont shoot 3D, I only hunt so I dont shoot field tips any more any way.

but if it's not tuned you are losing KE.
 

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True.....

I have learned alot since then "the above was more or less in the past", for now my equipment is locked and cocked. However, I was just trying to state if all else fails move the sight and hunt, maybe not good advice......
 

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byrnzie said:
First I you must check center shot. After that is correct you might have to tweek the center shot a little to get the broadheads to fly with your field tip point. And always, I mean always have a drastic helical on your arrows. This makes the most difference

jb
I have to disagree....Why find perfect centershot on your bow and then move it to sight in Broadheads....seems backwards to me. Perfect Centershot means that your setup, rest, etc, is in proper alignment to deliver your arrows "straight" out of the bow. Once centershot is achieved, and your arrows are flying like darts...leave your rest alone and adjust your site for bulls eye with broadheads. It is nice to have broadheads and field tips hit the same spot, but it isn't always the case. There are so many variables with each setup. Different spine, BH styles ...they all affect flight. If you have good centershot...it means your arrows will fly straight OUT of the bow(field tips OR BH).......after that what matters is your arrow and BH combo and foc, and vanes and spine...

If your BH arrows are not flying well, or are erratic, you need to tune them accordingly, with BH to shaft alignment.

If you are grouping BH arrows well but they are left or right or up and down a little...simply move your sight to bring them in.

By the way the only way to achieve Perfect Centershot is to have your bow Lazer Tuned. :D

Good Luck

Dave
 

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silverback,

If you use a dropaway clearance isn't an issue. If you are shooting feathers clearance still isn't an issue. As for the arrows dropping, it doesn't make enough difference to matter. It's a shame you can't my see my broadhead groups at 70 yrds. The name of the game is accuracy not speed
 

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Prepare for some sarcasm...

Toughguy (byrnzie),

You told the guy, no matter what, use a drastic helical. You didn't tell him he might have problems if he was shooting a conventional rest. I was just trying to help by pointing that out.

As for speed, I am a real speed freak with my 40" ATA 8" brace height hunting bow. It's a real scorcher. (didn't see that coming did you?)
I just don't believe in wasting KE unnecessarily.
My point is, that if you are already shooting at a slow speed you should be aware that it will slow your arrows down further.

Drastically helical fletch is the easiest way to cover tuning problems. That's right, the easiest way to straighten out a poorly launched arrow is to make it spin really fast.
Out of a well-tuned bow, generally all that is necessary is enough of a helical to make the arrow stabilize in the wind. But I only know this is true out to 20 yards, because I've never shot a broadhead further than that.

I am sure I would be astounded by your 70 yd groups. I've never seen anyone do that before, nor have I done it myself. By the way, how do you know that they are better than mine? Didn't think of that did you?
Just because you might be the best shooter at your range, doesn't mean there aren't people elsewhere who cannot shoot as accurately or better.
You should wake up from this dream you have.

I wish you could see my broadhead groups at 150 yards...
 

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TO be clear, I am not saying the a helical fletch does not help.
I am saying, there is a certain point where the problems outweigh the advantages.


Byrnzie, I sure hope whatever vanes you are shooting are 5" long. Otherwise you are missing out on a whole new level of overkill.
 

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Silver,

I don't know why you went off on an extreme tangent. For your info my range is my back yard and I'm there by myself. I never said you didn't but you confirmed that you don't shoot past 20 yards. I'm sorry to see you either suck at shooting or you have no confidence. what ever it is don't come down on me for giving a guy advice on stabilizing broadheads. By the way I shoot 4 inch quickspin with a DRASTIC helical, something I guess your missing out on toughguy.
 

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Sounds to me that the arrow may be underspined as the blackmax 2 has quite a hard cam and it really whips the arrow out of the bow. At 68 pounds I would go stiffer.
 
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