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something is screwed up and i had no idea. we went to acorn archery in new castle to shoot the techno hunt there. so you no how bow shops are. the guy is tryin to sell me this bowtech. hes says how it has this anti torque roller guard and how great it is. so he is torquing this bowtech all around so he grabs my mathews and starts torquin the crap outta it. that cant be good for it. he says oh this bows pretty good it didnt torque much. so i figured it didnt do anything to it. so i kept shooting it with just field tips and shot perfect for weeks with just field tips. then about a week ago i got some muzzy MX3s and shot them with one arrow flew great so i figured awesome i can shoot these now too.

so i take it out a few days later using different arrows that shot perfect before now groupin down and left everytime. i shoot the ultra rest so i put the odd vain up which leaves the one vain pointed right at the strings crossing. now it seems like im gettin a whip when this is goin low left. seems to me like its hittin the strings. never had a problem with this ever before. the one arrow that shoots fine is angled a little bit so the vain isnt pointed right at the strings its pointed down about a 1/8 from the other arrows. but i never had a problem with that before i always shot like that. now they r hitting. so i said i would just go back to shootin the rage they fly like field tips everytime well same thingwith them! and they always shot perfect!

then sometimes it will be ok and fly fine. so i got sick of it and took it to my bow shop and the guys lookin it over cant find anything wrong. i had looked it over pretty good the nite before i took it and i noticed a gap between my Y sting where it connects to the axle. so i mention that to him and he said wow ive never saw that ever happen on a mathews bow he never saw a space there.

so he used spacers on it to fill in that space which i really didnt like now he wants me to move the rest all around to get it shooting right. we also paper tuned it there were perfect holes no whip at all. now if i was torquing it there would be a whip field tips and broadheads we thought. i no that field tips are alot more forgiving than a broadhead. if it was me think id be doing it with both.


i dont no what to do ive been shootin the crap outta my poor target

i cant remember if that space was there before that guy was messin with it or not. im thinking it was i kinda remember thinking that was wierd but it shot fine so i didnt care.


let me no what u think i should do about the bow

im thinkin about sending it back but if its me just torquin it ill feel like a jerk but i never had broadheads fly bad especially the rage somethings gotta be screwed up and when he undid the rest to move it it was on there tight it hadnt moved or anything.
 

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are you shooting arrows shorter than your draw length? if you are then it is possible one of the blades could be hitting something on your riser or possibly your sight if its not a low profile sight. also fixed blade broadheads tend to fly differently than expandibles and field tips, typically low and left. if they are off by a few inches then thats normal and all you have to do is sight it in like you normally would but with the broadheads but if its off by more than 3 inches then there is something wrong with either the cam timing or rest timing. (more likely rest timing or alignment especially if you have been moving it and if thats the case you will also see the back of your arrow kick in different directions) As for the torque, it is possible you are torquing it but you would have noticed that while you were shooting your field points. if you are torquing it then it could be the grip. if you dont have mathews focus grip on the bow and its the wood grip then you are more likely to torque with that than any other grip on the market cuz it is rounded off. As for the FLX guard on the Bowtech bows, yea they are awesome and they do what they claim they do. i got one on my bow and ive never shot better. I manage an archery shop in Kenosha, Wisconsin and I am a very passionate bow hunter just like many people on here. good luck and i hope everything works out for you
 

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thanks for the reply

thanks for the reply bowguy12

ill try to fill in some of the gaps

i have shot the same exact beman ics arrows same length as i always have. i used to shoot rage broadheads that flew perfect now they also go to the left. thats what i was thinking that the MX3s just werent flying right because they are fix blades so i put on the rage and tried it and same problem so thats when i realized i had a problem.

i just footpowder tested it today expecting to see it streaked on the rest or cables or somewhere and nothing. i cant really tell where the roller guard is though where the cables move but its a little smudged there just looks like wax though.

but still shooting left not down really at all either though. my bow shop guy did move my rest a little bit towards my riser.

i also tried movin the odd feather straight out that whent low left. i tried moving it like the other arrow that flys perfect flew somewhat decent but the footpowder streaked the bottom left of the rest. and didnt really notice any whipping today.

also i shoot the ultra rest there is a line on it when at full draw it should be lined up with another line and it is. i would think if the release string needed shortened the full draw line would be short and not lined up.

i appreciate you guys tryin to help!
 

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trying a stiffer arrow could work too. what size are your arrows and whats your lbs and draw length on your bow? I've got a beman sizing chart right here in the shop cuz we only carry easton and beman.
 

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I believe that Rage broadheads are expandables.

The main reason for expandables is that they fly like field points so are less critical to tuning and form faults.

Muzzy's are fixed blades. They are effectively steel fletching on the front of your arrow. This makes them more critical to minor tuning problems and to form faults, especially hand torque.

For field points within 20 to 30 yards, arrow spine is not an issue. But when you put a fixed blade broadhead on, it becomes much more of a factor.

Check the charts or programs to see if your arrows are in the recommended range. Then spin them to be sure that they are perfectly aligned with your arrows. If not, there are tools made specifically for squaring the ends of your arrows. They work and should be used every time an arrow is cut. Don't let somebody tell you that they spin the arrow while cutting it to square it. That technique is a good start, but no one can consistently get the end perfectly square that way. Additional squaring is almost always necessary. Also be sure to square both ends. A nock that is out of alingment is at least as bad as a point out of alignment.

Then go to your maximum accurate range and shoot broad heads and field points aiming at the same spot. Adjust centershot and nock height to get them to fly together. You want to be as far back as possible. If you are too close, you will damage your arrows. The marks on your rest are just a starting point. You have to tune the bow to your form. Everyone is a little different and no one can tune a bow perfectly for you.

Let us know how you work this out.

Hope this helps,
Allen
 

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Try a different kind of rest to just verify that your present rest is or is not the problem.
 
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