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Cable Stop point of contact

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166 views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  Kammeg  
#1 ·
Been down the long road of self learning/tooling up and changed out my old set of strings/cables on my Mach 30. Frustrating as I didn’t manage my twists well, amongst other things, but good learning overall and I’m finally timed & close to spec (BH floating between 6-1/8 & 6-3/16). Should have learned on my cheaper bows first though lol!

Now to my question, see photo attached. The top cable is hitting near the edge of the TAP stop while the bottom cable is dead down the middle of the stop. Should I be concerned? Has me nervous as I’ve held a ticking time bomb before where the stops slipped by (hence why I’m going down this path of self performing, won’t name the shop). There is very slight cam lean but barely noticeable on the draw board at full draw. Could I adjust it twisting the cables above the plastic PBTS? If I adjust/twist on the loop end of the cables it’ll throw off my draw weight again.

Sam at TAP mentioned he widened the stops but not in the direction mine are hitting, he widened towards the cam. He did say that he is considering a new iteration where it’s widened in the direction away from the cam since he has heard from several others that their stops stops are hitting like mine.

Any help would be appreciated!!!
 

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#3 ·
To me that doesn’t look too terrible. You still appear to have some meat in the draw stop outside of the cable. For me it gets too sketchy when the draw stop is visible past the diameter of the cable. Looks like you’ve got enough of your draw stop showing that if your bow is tuned where it’s at I’d guess you’d be ok.
 
#4 ·
Thank you for your input! I think my event with the time bomb just has me on edge still but glad to hear it. I havent tuned this bow yet outside of cam timing and have only shot in the garage to break in the strings so we shall see soon hopefully. Thx again.
 
#6 ·
Appreciate ya having a look and providing that feedback, hopefully my paper tears & arrow flight are close or are left tears if any further shimming is needed it’s towards the opposite side of the riser and not further out on the stop
 
#7 ·
For what it's worth, I have twice had to "shim" out my cable stop. I have cut little squares out of milk jug plastic, poked a hole in them, then used the original screw and put the shim on then the stop back on. I then use an exacto knife or razor blade to trim any bits of plastic so it matches the shape of the stop. Works great for me
 
#10 ·
My M34 was missing or actually slipping by on the other side of the stop from yours if I had it extended all the way out(lowest letoff). I have two sets of TAP stops on the way. Mine was on the E2 cam, my EC2 cam does not do that.
 
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