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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up my new UltraTec, cam & 1/2 XT2000 and I'm having problems getting my arrows to paper tune. I shoot 28-1/4" arrow and have a 28-1/4" draw. My bow is set at 63# and I'm using a Trophy Hunter fall away rest, and I'm using a jaw type release. Archers advantage shows that eather the Beaman ICS hunter 400 or the Gold Tip camo hunter XT 5575 should be a perfect match, but I consistantly get a fairly severe nock right tear and I can't move my rest any farther to the left; all signs of a too stiff spine. I shoot 100 grain points and use 4, 3-1/2" vanes. My 2002 UltraTec CC+ XT2000 with the exact setup, shoots perfect bullet holes with both arrows. What gives? I tried one of my buddys wife's CarbonTech whitetail hunter 35/55 and BINGO perfect bullet holes! But i don't want to shoot that light of an arrow, besides, I already have 2 dozen of the Gold Tip 5575 Camo XT's. Anyone have any tricks that might help? I've tried both 125 and 150 grain points with not much improvement and I'm stumped. HELP!
 

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Try not using a fall away rest.
 

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It sounds like a clearance issue. How severe is the tear. 1", 2"? Could also be hand torque. Are you shooting a loop? If not, you could be torquing the string with the release.

What about your arrow flight and grouping. Does it group ok? Does the flight look good? If yes, then don't worry.

Are the wheels in the correct position? Look at the "tuning marks". I have spent the last 5 years shooting a darton cam and a half, and when my bow comes out of "tune"(time), my arrow flight would go to crap instantly. My group size would easily triple. A few twists in the correct cable, and everything would go back to normal.

The rest should be set up fairly close to the centerline of the grip/line up with the string tracks in the wheels.

Usually, a compund bow shot with a release will have almost no left/right tear if it is set up properly, no matter how stiff or weak the arrows are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've thought about the clearence issue because I shoot 4 vanes set at 90 degrees. I just fletched up 3 arrows set at 75/105 to see if clearence is the problem. I'll let you know. As far as switching from a fall away rest....NEVER! For my hunting bows it has been the solution to most of my tuning problems. I still use launchers on both my target bows because they work fine but when shooting broadheads I'm a fall away convert and I 'aint goin' back.
 

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I meant see if it doesn't get the severe tear without the fall away. Then it's possible the fall away rest is the cause. Powder test to see if your getting contact somewhere.
 

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Tune with a bare shaft.... Then shoot the fletched shaft.... if it doesn't shoot a bullet hole you got contact... Mine were hitting on the pickup lever, looked like it should clear but didn't. I shoot 3 hard helical 4" vanes. Turned the cock vane down bullet hole....
 

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Last week, I tried to paper tune my Cam 1/2 Magnatgec and there was nothing I could do to get a good hole in the paper. I had a high left tear that I just could not get rid of. My arrow spine was definitely not the problem and I could not find any fletching contact. I decided to follow the advice I give everyone else and it worked. Forget paper tuning--It means absolutely nothing. I went to my 35 yard target and played with my windage and elevation until I got as good a group as I thought I would get at 35 yards. Next I played with the tiller on the top and bottom limb bolts. I cranked on the bottom limb bolt 1/4 turn at a time and watched my groups tighten up. Next, I put the bottom limb bolt back to where it was when I started and did the same thing with the top limb bolt. In my case, turning the top bolt seemed to tighten things up really nice. Now, my Magnatec is shooting 2 inch groups at 50 yards, but still tearing a lousy hole in the paper.

Moral of the story--Forget paper tuning and concentrate on group tuning. After all, it is how well your arrows group out on the target that is important, not how good a hole it punches at close range. A bow can shoot a lousy hole in paper and still be very accurate at long range. It can also shoot a perfect hole in the paper and shoot terrible at long range.

Automan
 

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You are absolutely correct automan26, that's why I only use the paper tune for a starting point.. I do a walk up from 60 yards adjusting my rest first then tiller tune for final grouping... works well.
 

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An archer last week had a similar issue I thought with a Hoyt, was solved by twisting the cables to sync the cams at FULL DRAW. If clearance is not a problem, then that would be my guess. On my Hoyt UT, because it has a low wrist grip, I can't imagine that hand torque is an issue. On more thing, Perry came on recently and stated that on AA use the hard cam setting on the UT with the 2000 limbs.

I agree with everyone on the paper tuning comments.
 

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I know I said this before to someone but check your nock tension on the string. Some nocks pinch the string too tightly and make the arrow seem either too stiff or in the other case too weak. You might need to reserve somtimes. Also the centershot is not where the groove is on the ultratech riser, it's to the left. Don't ask me why hoyt does this but it is off to the left( on a right hand bow). I time my bows at full draw like a regualr two cam so the cams make a solid wall also. And lastly make sure your rest comes up at the last 1/3 or so of the draw cycle. This will aloow for better clearance and drop free from the arrow before it leaves the bow.Just my .02 cents, Good luck!
 

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Duck one thing you might try is to use 3 or 4 feathers and a 125 grain head . that will change the spine of your curant arrow and maybe get you good flight . Its worth a try on one or two arrows as opposed to buying 12 new ones . I had the same problem with some beman matrix 400 shafts and just switching to 125 grain heads from 100 grain heads did wounders . My setup matches yours exactly except that I draw 28" even .
 

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Right tear

Duck,
I had the same thing happen with my 03 Ultratec. Moving the rest and or nock made no changes. Made changes to the limb bolts and tiller that also did not help.
What I did was put "3" twists in the cable going to the bottom cam and things got better. ( NOTE: THE CAM'S WERE ON THE STOPS AT THE SAME TIME BEFORE I STARTED PUTTING IN TWISTS).
I then put in "3" more twists and the right tear was gone, and now I had a 3/4" high tear. I moved the rest up 1/16" at this point and now have a bullet hole in paper and the bow groups great.
After these changes to the cables the top cam is 1/8" behind the bottom but the bow shoots great with both field points and my Muzzy broadheads.
As for the timing marks on the cams at rest : the string is against the inside mark of the top cam, and the string is in the middle of the marks on the bottom cam.
When all else does not work you some times have to make the timing of the bow fit your type / style of shooting.
PS: The bow will now shoot both ICS 400 & 340 with good results.

Good Luck and let me know,
David
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Guys, thanks for all your input. I can see I have a lot of things to try this weekend. I'll let you know how they work. I think I saw somewhere that someone wanted to quit this forum? And give up the best free advice on the net? Not me! Thanks again.
 

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Also do the powder test. I read an article that some drop aways did not get out of the way as advertised. They filmed it then were going frame by frame to see if there was any contact.
 
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