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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a Hoyt split limb bow with a floating yolk system and at rest I'm noticing that the cams are in-line with the cables to the cable guard vs the string. Because the yolk is floating, does it even make sense to try and twist one side of the yolk to balance out the limbs to take care of the lean? (I tried putting a twist on one side and it didn't seem to help at all). You'd think sooner or later that twist will work it's way thru the loop and even out? I'm having a real problem bare shaft tuning at 10' no matter where I move my rest, mostly tail right tears. What's going on? and is there anything I can do about it or do I need to do anything about it???:confused::confused::confused:
 

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Back Yard Champion
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You're right about twisting the yoke, it won't help. It would help if we knew you're setup; bow, rest, draw weight, draw length, arrow and all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's a Hoyt Enticer with dual Master Cams, 30" DL @ #60, Golden Premier rest. Got alot of good years out of this bow but just prior to this past season it started moving the groups to the right, brought it in and the pro shop guy said your cams are leaning and you'll need new strings in the off-season. Just got done putting custom string and cables on, set cam sync and verticle but can't control the horizontal.:confused:
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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Take some serving thread and serve the lower portion of the floating yoke together above where it attaches to the string (thus making it non floating)......then twist away on witch ever side you need ........did this with my Trykon and it solved my cam lean/tuning problem......:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, I'll go and get that done. So, would guys agree that there should be NO lean when at rest, cams are just lined up straight down the string??
 

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well i dont agree with tying on serving to a floating yolk, first i would see how the lean is at full draw. do you have a draw board to check maybe??
 

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I had a hoyt of that vintage that had the floating yoke served from the factory. I had to do some major twisting to get the cam lean out.
 

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I like to have "0" cam lean at rest.

The cable guard/slide will put a bit of bias (lean) on the cables, and you can correct for that with a static bus cable. I have had some luck serving the floating yoke into place to correct for lean, but it seems to lose "correction" over time. But it takes a long time/lost 'o shots to see that.

I also use a drawing board, and find that with short ATA's, you may start out even but you will often see a bit of lean at full draw. Surprise, surprise, it's not always in the same direction. With longer ATA's, change is usually very small.

Having owned Hoyt bows for the past 25+ years, it's worth noting that many of the cables since AIM cables were developed, had served floating yoke(s). My old Viper Carbonite, (which I still have) and I'm pretty sure, many of my other bows came that way. And I corrected for lean by a turn or two on the served yokes. Worked fine.
 

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Cam lean

You should have 0 cam lean at rest and at full draw. It can be adjusted only by your yoke cable. The best sollution is to get new strings that don't have a floating yoke. I wouldn't recomend serving the yoke together, but it would work.
 

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Bringer of truth
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The side of the yoke that is twisted is the side that the string loop will not slide up....Hope this helps
 

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If after you get the cam lean taken care of and you still can't get it to tune check cams to see if they are moving freely, I own a bow just like yours could not get it to tune top cam was froze, replaced axle, cured the problem. Andrewharvey
 

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My best shooting bow has quite a bit of cam lean, so I don't worry about it. Guess that makes me the odd man out.
 

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My best shooting bow has quite a bit of cam lean, so I don't worry about it. Guess that makes me the odd man out.
hoyts will tune better with a slight cam lean towards the cable guard, doesn't take much it just helps them track better with the angle of the cables!...:wink:
 

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path of least resistance is usually best, hence the floating yoke. You can't take lean out of it. All you can do is change where the lean happens in the draw cycle. Not necessary to change.
 
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