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cam lean on a single cam bow.

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5.1K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  mightymite04  
M
#1 ·
i have a Supra HP that has a touch of lean to the cam.( right handed bow, bottom cam leans left, looking at bow as you would shoot it). now i have read that when tuning cam lean we are less concerned about the bottom cam than the top cam on a typical twin cam bow ( N&B's excellent thread on cam lean tuning),...but what about a single cam bow ?. can i assume that because it is the only cam on the bow, it should get the same attention the top cam gets on a twin cam bow,....is this correct. IOW,...i have to shim the cam left to eliminate it,...correct ?. there is no lean in the idler wheel because it it easily controlled by the split yoke at that end of the bow and with the cam leaning as it is now, i currently have the recommended center shot set at the rest,....straightening the cam lean will increase the center shot measurement , is this a concern as well ?. i am not new to bow tuning,...i've been shooting for almost 50 years and tuned all my own bows, from back in a time when then round wheel bows were all there was to now.... but i am new to tuning single cam bows, as this is the first single cam bow i ever had, so until now, i never had any reason to pay attention to tuning single cam bows.
Thank-you in advance to whomever replies.....
 
#2 ·
YOu can tune the lean of the idler wheel, with the yoke legs.
If you want to shim the bottom axle, to move the cam sideways, you can. IF the d-loop is closer to the top axle,
you get more bang for the buck with the yoke tuning.

If d-loop is farther away from the bottom axle, you get less bang for the buck when shimming the bottom axle.
Another way to tune the bottom axle lean angle, is to shim the interface between the limb and the limb pocket.



I shimmed the top left limb, to fix a RIGHT paper tear, with 5 layers of electrical tape.

OPPOSITE works for the bottom axle.

If you have a RIGHT nock paper tear, by adding layers of electrical tape to the bottom RIGHT split limb, you end up stiffening the lower RIGHT limb. This makes the lower LEFT limb weaker in comparison. So, this makes the bottom axle, left end lift in the UP direction. When the bottom cam leans left, the left end of the bottom axle lifts up higher,
the single cam on the bottom axle will also turn to the RIGHT, fixing your nock RIGHT paper tear.

If you have a LEFT nock paper tear, by adding layers of electrical tape to the bottom LEFT split limb, you end up stiffening the lower LEFT limb. This makes the lower RIGHT limb weaker in comparison. So, this makes the bottom axle, right end lift in the UP direction. When the bottom cam leans right, the right end of the bottom axle lifts up higher, the single cam on the bottom axle will also point to the LEFT, fixing your nock LEFT paper tear.
 
M
#3 ·
thanks Nuts&Bolts.
i've already got the idler squared up nicely with the yoke. shimming the limb in the limb pocket is a new one for me,....never heard of doing that for cam lean. basically, putting more preload on the left limb. makes sense.....i can see where that might actually be more effective than shimming the cam over, given how little room there is to move the cam over on that bow. there's only about .060"on either side between cam and limb. i will certainly try that !.
 
#4 ·
merlinron said:
thanks Nuts&Bolts.
i've already got the idler squared up nicely with the yoke. shimming the limb in the limb pocket is a new one for me,....never heard of doing that for cam lean. basically, putting more preload on the left limb. makes sense.....i can see where that might actually be more effective than shimming the cam over, given how little room there is to move the cam over on that bow. there's only about .060"on either side between cam and limb. i will certainly try that !.
Click to expand...
I had a 1-inch right tear on a right handed bow. Got that to bullet hole, by adding 5 layers of electrical tape,
under the top left limb, between top left limb and limb pocket.
 
M
#5 ·
the limb shimming is what i was referring to, when i said, "i will certainly try that" !. thanks for that suggestion !. i've been getting a 3/4 inch left/up tear that i haven't been able to get rid of. i know the up element comes because i've got my knock point just a hair high with the blade rest, but haven't been able to eliminate the left element, which the shimming at the limb pocket should remedy. i never thought of shimming the limb in the pocket,....again thanks !.
 
M
#7 ·
If you lay arrow on back side of the bottom cam the arrow should point away from d loop. Now you go to your idler wheel lay arrow on the front side towards you opposite of bottom cam at d loop right side of arrow shaft should be right at string edge or be slightly covered by string. If that doesn’t work then what nuts and bolt said if you have a wide track idler wheel then you have a fair amount of adjustment with yoke.I have never seen one that needed a shim
 
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