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I check for it at rest and full draw just so I know what my bow is doing. It will make it easier to notice any changes that may show problems.
 

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GPtimes2 said:
I check for it at rest and full draw just so I know what my bow is doing. It will make it easier to notice any changes that may show problems.
I think this is the best answer. I usually am more concerned about the at rest, because this is were the arrow exits the bow. Different axle to axles and configurations of bows are going to vary this. You may actually get to a some place in the middle setting.

I feel the adjustment of cam lean is necessary, therefore, I have stopped construction of floating yoke cable assemblies unless the customer wants it. I am really not sure why Hoyt still uses them, but I can't see any reason for the split limb, either. I see a lot of Hoyt competition shooter not using the floating yokes too.

The main reason for checking cam lean or idler wheel lean is to minimize the side load wear to the cable. If it get extremely bad, you might possible derail a string or cable. It also equalizes the bearing and axle loadings.
 

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I’d explain both cam lean and limb tip flex or twist from a technical view and from having tested both the floating and the split yoke on several different style of bows.

But I really don’t want to argue with everybody… So I will just keep my mouth shut and teach my students in private… :wink:
 

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JAVI said:
I’d explain both cam lean and limb tip flex or twist from a technical view and from having tested both the floating and the split yoke on several different style of bows.

But I really don’t want to argue with everybody… So I will just keep my mouth shut and teach my students in private… :wink:
Cmmon, Javi,
you have already started speaking out, so let it out, you know how many of us readers respect and appreciate your opinions and expertise, me included.
Ok I can respect the fact that you want to keep it for your students, but, I live way too far to be able to be your student, so internet my conneting link...
So...a few tips...pleeease....
 

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I have a Mathews XT so I checked on the Mathews site to see what they had to say about their bows and idler lean. One of the guys in the research dept. (I think) responded this way. On the XT set the idler wheel so that an arrow with a field point held on the side of the idler slants inward enough to have the point directly under the nocking point. One member (Vince) even posted pictures clearly showing this. The Mathews factory people concurred, explaining that the idea is to have the string coming off the idler perfectly straight at full draw. Since the idler tips because of the cable rollers pulling on it as you draw, setting it so it tips the other way at rest allows it to be square at full draw. The aligning arrow goes on the arrow rest side of the idler. Because of the string silencer on the other side you can't get it on the wrong side. I too would like to have Javi post on this. Come on Javi, what is your take on this.
 

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What do I think...

cloquet said:
I have a Mathews XT so I checked on the Mathews site to see what they had to say about their bows and idler lean. One of the guys in the research dept. (I think) responded this way. On the XT set the idler wheel so that an arrow with a field point held on the side of the idler slants inward enough to have the point directly under the nocking point. One member (Vince) even posted pictures clearly showing this. The Mathews factory people concurred, explaining that the idea is to have the string coming off the idler perfectly straight at full draw. Since the idler tips because of the cable rollers pulling on it as you draw, setting it so it tips the other way at rest allows it to be square at full draw. The aligning arrow goes on the arrow rest side of the idler. Because of the string silencer on the other side you can't get it on the wrong side. I too would like to have Javi post on this. Come on Javi, what is your take on this.
I think that is the correct way to set a static yoke if you do not have access to either a draw board or better yet a Hooter Shooter. I just choose another option which eliminates the necessity of making adjustments and balances the load dynamically.

And it isn’t a matter of keeping the information for my paying students; I’ve always freely shared my knowledge. I simply don’t want to debate the concept.
 

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Idler lean or cam lean? I see where the cables split end serves to adjust the idler tilt but what about the cam? How do you effect it's lean? I have a problem with my cable rubbing the cam so hard the serving is worn through after two dozen arrows.
 

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cam lean

Hey Jivi, I have aBuckNasty on order for my Hoyt V-Tec with the floating yoke. Did I mae a mistake with this or what? I figured I would order what was on the bow when I got in new.
 

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Floating yoke is nothing more than a selling ploy by Hoyt IMO. I mean you cant even adjust it like you can a static yoke so how can it be better... seems like a no-brainer to me.:shrug:

The cam lean issue though is kinda touchy. To me I wont have it and Ill do whatever I can to overcome it... cant even begin to fix cam lean with a floating system btw. But the reason I say its touchy is because Ive seen a Bowtech with obvious cam lean at full draw and the thing will stack arrows at 70 yards. Now the limbs twisting that way may promote premature failure but I havent seen it yet. JMHO
 

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Flyguy958 said:
OK JAVI, you have my curiosity going. If you don’t want to post your solution in the open forum how about a PM, I’d like to know your opinion.
Yep, same here Javi, I have a Dynatec with cam lean, just want to know how it relly affects the performance of a bow, and how to correct it .Pm is good.
 

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Guys…

Will it surffice to say that I use a floating yoke on any bow I personally setup. The reasons are many and based on what I consider irrefutable test results. Tests which have been conducted by me and others I trust, and I do not wish to debate them with diehard static yoke users. I really don’t care if you believe me to be full of crap or not and you won't change my mind anymore than I can your's.

The information I share is done so without cost to the recipient; so use it or disregard it as you see fit. But I no longer will defend or debate this shared knowledge in a public forum.

This is the course I have chosen to follow, you may determine differently and I don’t doubt that many of you will. That’s why there are different brands of automobile…. Freedom of choice.
 

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JAVI said:
Guys…

Will it surffice to say that I use a floating yoke on any bow I personally setup. The reasons are many and based on what I consider irrefutable test results. Tests which have been conducted by me and others I trust, and I do not wish to debate them with diehard static yoke users. I really don’t care if you believe me to be full of crap or not and you won't change my mind anymore than I can your's.

The information I share is done so without cost to the recipient; so use it or disregard it as you see fit. But I no longer will defend or debate this shared knowledge in a public forum.

This is the course I have chosen to follow, you may determine differently and I don’t doubt that many of you will. That’s why there are different brands of automobile…. Freedom of choice.

I have agree with Javi on this one, but maybe we are both wrong. I thought the whole intention of a floating yoke was to help with idler lean by allowing the yoke to float and adjust to the side tension? I just wonder why Crackers would make and suggest them to single cam bow owners if they did not help or were bad?
 

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I just go by results. Bows that I have tuned from 4 companies using both hybrid and single cams have always tuned easier with floating yokes. Mike (Javi) knows that I was once a die-hard static yoke guy until I listened to him.

It makes as much sense to me to allow the yoke to "float" and not mess with it as it does to force one side of the limb to hold more load than the other throughout the limb travel. There is alot going on that we don't see and I think the obsession with idler and cam lean is so over-blown that it's rediculous.

Most people can't even shoot well enough to notice the difference. I've seen guys spend days trying to set their idler lean perfect and shoot a million holes in paper, but still shoot the bow with a death grip and 2" long of draw. How much sense does that make?
 
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