[imfisherman199]

I had A new cable and string installed on my bow.I went with zebra twist.Now my arrows drop.No matter how I adjusted My nok or rest.From 10 to 20 yards.It is not so bad.But between 20 and 30 my arrow will dive A foot or better.So I adjusted the tiller by means of space bettwen the pocket and back of the limb.It was off so I used A calliber and got it just write.Or so I thought.When I went shooting the same thing happened.So I measured and the actual distance of my tiller.From string to back of the limb pocket.Measures diffrent from top to bottom.I have A single cam bow.What I would like to know.Is it ok to adjust the top and bottom to aline.The tiller using my two wieght adjustment screw's.Although in front of the riser they will be off but will my tiller be fixed will something go wrong.Or is the bow just out of tune some how.What would cause this.Thank you for your time.

 

[*red-ranger*]

what kind of bow is it?? some bows don't require tiller adj (so I have been told) did you check your poundage with a scale with your limbs maxed out, try that first and if it is drawing the max weight then you need more help then what I can offer, if not then you need to have your ATA checked

 

[imfisherman199]

Thank you for responding!

Parker ultra-lite 35 just for A note I've never had so many problems with A bow.As I had with this one.

 

[*red-ranger*]

great bow

I had one and loved it, but I would check the draw weight first, I may be wrong but I don't think the tiller would be the cause of your arrow drop off

 

[shooterspal]

Bow Problem

Always when your bow is shooting right . Check your axle to axle / brace height and tiller . Write all this down , that way when you have a new string and cable installed you no if it's the right ones . Check and se if your idler wheel is square and also your cam .

 

[Pheonix34]

I recently spoke to Parker. The tiller should be even as measured from the back of limb pocket to the string. Fix that first, although it won't cause your problem. Parker, of course, only reccommends their strings/cables. They say that others of differing thicknesses can ride off the cams. This does make sense. The new string/cables may be thicker and heavier, therefore slowing down the bow. I've read this before on this board. But, if you crank a bit more weight into it, it should hit where it was. The down side is that you now have to pull more weight. Anytime you re-string a bow, everything changes. It's a PITA!

 

[Twang!]

all of the above advice is good I also had a problem with a carera one time and found out that the shop put a string on that was to long and when we
put a new string on that was proper it was 1/2 short changed everything so double check string length

 

[mt1961]

A parker may be different, but on a one cam bow I pull a string from axle to axle and measure to it vs the bow string. The cam and idler are usually different sizes.

 

[bfisher]

mt1969 is right. Because a lot of single cam bows have a smaller idler wheel the tiller as measured to the string will, and should be a different measurement. There are basically two different correct methods to get the tiller correct. One entails just bottoming both limbs and then backing them out evenly until the acceptable draw weight is achieved. The other is to stretch a string from one axle to the other and axle and measure this distance, adjusting the limb bolts as needed to get even tiller.

 

[Deezlin]

mt1969 is right. Because a lot of single cam bows have a smaller idler wheel the tiller as measured to the string will, and should be a different measurement. There are basically two different correct methods to get the tiller correct. One entails just bottoming both limbs and then backing them out evenly until the acceptable draw weight is achieved. The other is to stretch a string from one axle to the other and axle and measure this distance, adjusting the limb bolts as needed to get even tiller.

Right on!!! Hybrid and Dual cams are adjusted off the string and the cams should be in time first. But, a single cam is adjust as bfisher described.

 

[Longdraw2]

Are you sure its tuned? I would paper tune it and make sure its shooting bullet holes. you'll know once you paper tune it if anything is off. crank the limbs all the way dow and measure the tiller, if your reasonably close, it ought to shoot fine. my guess is that the tiller is fine, but you have a high or low nock or its making contact with the rest or sight and its porposing going down range, stealing velocity and its dropping off. A poorly tuned bow shoots that way. I had a new Switchback set up perfectly, shooting bullet holes. after about 100 shots, the cable had stretched and the drop away wasn't dropping fast enough. the vanes were barely making contact with the rest about every 4-5 shots and you could see them wobbling and they would impact 6-8 inches low at 40yds. I put it in the vise checed everything, retuned it and it was good to go.

 

[MikeK]

You say you "had the string and cables changed," which means someone else did it for you. It is likely that the person who did the job turned the limb bolts out before pressing the bow but didn't bother to weigh the draw first and then restore it.

Did you check for this?