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Discussion Starter #1
Ok here is the run down...leading up to the question of "Am i screwed bc i cannot yoke tune!? I can only tune on weekends and the season is here-any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance.:thumbs_up

29.5" draw length
65Lb draw weight
Let off exactly 80% (13lbs)
Cam sync AND timing are PERFECT
Axle to axle within 1/8"
Brace height perfect
FOBS and beeman ICS hunter 340's
Slick trick 1" cut standards 100grain-spin tested fine
10% F.O.C.
Limb driven rest (Trophy ridge smackdown)
Am able group bare shafts so my hold is consistent

GOAL: FP's and broad heads both 100 grain to group the same, If not possible:mad: tell me what I need to do to get the best broad head groups.

Rest and nocking point were initially adjusted to 90 degrees (parallel with arrow clamped to bottom of riser) and side to side so the arrow was parallel to arrow clamped to the side of the riser. Arrow center aprox center of berger holes. Rest position marked so i can return to this basic setting.After slightly moving both nocking point and rest for vertical adjustment i was able to get bareshafts and FOB'd arrows elevation to be the same @ 20 yards

Their windage is not the same. I have read this is adjusted with YOKE tuning. I don't have one!!!! Since they are off by 10" or so, is it even worth messing with the draw weight to increase/decrease shaft stiffness? I'd rather not b/c i like this draw weight. Will moving the rest help any or just hurt me? I never hear about moving the rest (bare vs fletch) to adjust. In desperation at the end of tuning today I did mess with the rests horizontal position but then ran out of daylight so i'm not sure what that will result in. I forgot if the FP was shooting right or left of the bare shaft :embara: and was getting frustrated, i'll retest tomorrow. I hear if i can get bareshafts and FP's the same, i should pretty much be dead on with the broad heads...and that i cannot jump straight to trying to tune the FP's and broad heads together bc i will be so far off i'll never get it right....

If i'm going to be stuck with a bow that won't bare shaft with FP's it seems like it will be an impossible task to get the FP's and broad heads the same...HELP!
 

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i just got done bareshaft n broadhead tuning n i moved my rest to follow the broadheads.worked out well after i changed broadheads.but idk much bout all this
 

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Best thing to do us don't freak out, First off, which way are the broadheads hitting in relation to the FP?? If its left then you have a stiff arrow so try a 400spine arrow, spine charts are just recommendations from the arrow company they can't take every variable into consideration, if they are right then it's weak spine, if you decrease your weight and the gap gets better between them then you found the problem
 

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Actually, you have so much "junk" in the way I don't want to even try to sort out your problem. BUT! Go back to square one. You want to bare shaft tune, fine, but get that "hole" up close, 6 to 8 feet. Arrow coming out of the bow cleanly, switch to your fletched arrows. Beings you are usning FOBs, arrow coming out of the bow reasonably well, good arrow flight, sight in. Once sighted in go with the diagram below.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was bare shaft tuning w/o paper, with seeing the location it hit on the target,and unless extreme, disregarding the angle it stuck in the target...

UPDATE: So today i went at at it and adjusted the windage on the rest, and was able to get both bare shaft and FOB'd shaft together at 20 yards and called it good. Switched to broad heads and they hit with the field points w/o having to change the rest any more... dialed in the sights and it shoots good out to 30 yards at 40 yards both field points and broad heads aren't that good but the lighting sucked and i think its more me than the bow. So its good enough for now for a clean kill IMO. When i get more time i will further fine tune this bow...
 
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