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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
today i was going to bareshaft tune and at first the bare shaft was hitting about 6 inches right and 4 inches high with the nock of the bare shaft leaning left towards my fletched group. i raised my nock to bring the bare shaft down so it was hitting at the same height as my fletched arrows. however, i tried everything and couldn't get my bare shaft to move to the left and group with the fletched arrows. i quit with the bare shaft hitting at the same height as my fletched arrows but about 4 inches right and the tail was still aiming left. i saw where a weak spine could be a cause of this, but i'm shooting carbon force 400s (30.25 inches long) from a pse primos stl with a 29.5 inch draw @ 65 lbs. with this setup, i should be overspined if anything.

anybody got any ideas, i really need to get this fixed quick.

thanks
 

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heres the skinny when i tuned bareshaft my arrows were right six inches
so heres what i did i cut and inch off my arrows to 28inches from 30 draw and draw weight went from 60 to 68 or 70 at 40 yards my bareshafts are just a lil bit right :angel: :wink: :shade:
i did just that and shat back and hard a :beer:
tuning a bow is hard
 

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I'm not real experienced, but how far are you away from your target?

Recently I found that my fletched arrows were pretty good, but the bare shafts would never correct from tuning.

I was too far from the target... :embarasse I moved to with in 10 feet of the target got bullet holes, then went to fletched arrows with very little adjustment needed.
 

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I was having the same problem - bare shafts at right, and couldn't figure why.

So I decided to shoot bare shafts/arrows at paper, and when release was good (I shoot fingers/compound), I could get bullet holes - but bare shafts still went right!

To be able to make bare shafts meet arrows, I had to reduce point weight from 125g to 80g - but then paper tear was nock right (too stiff).

I still don't know why. This was both with Epics 400 and Whitetails 45/60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
all shooting was done at 20 yards.

also, i ended up with my arrow about 3/8 of an inch to the left of the line formed by a string between my limb bolts with allen wrenches in them. i'm not sure if this is right, but it seems like it should be closer to the center of the limb bolts.

it just seems that my bare shafts were sort of coming out nock left and obviously there weren't any fletchings to straighten them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i checked for vane contact but will check into that again. also, my arrows are at the bottom of the range for the carbon force 400s so i don't see how i could be on the weak side at all. also, i am only shooting a 100 gr. point.


any other ideas on what to check
 

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Bow grip? Release torque?

Bare shafts are very sensitive to all input, as there is nothing to correct flight to get them flying straight once they are off. I've found that with some bows, I had to be super careful about gripping the bow, and even making sure I put no torque on the string with the release to get good bare shaft flight. Two other bows I had, I couldn't get bare shafts to fly well (mine usually are tail right) until I gripped the bow instead of using a loose grip with a sling. As soon as I gripped the bow the bare shaft flew right into the group with fletched arrows. So IMHO, it might not be the arrow spine. I agree that you shouldn't have underspined arrows there. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
if i can't get bare shafts to group, should i just set my centershot back to the middle and then just broadhead tune and shoot it like it is. i am really wanting to get it tuned right, but trying to get this thing to shoot a bareshaft seems hopeless.

i'm open for any suggestions.
 

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hahahaha......i edited that post cause i hadn't read the whole thread. sorry m8. i use a crosshair between my peep and sight as a third referance point. that takes care of the bow torque. :wink:
 

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Spine?

I agree that it is very unlikely that your spine is weak. I am currently shooting arrows that should be very overspined. It is not easy to get the bare shafts to fly well consistently, but they are not bad. Broadheads fly really well, grouping is good, and right with field points. I would try broadheads to see how they shoot with your bow. If there is no problem, then it's probably not worth worrying too much about. ;)
 

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Just a comment:

I was shooting an old PSE wheeler and bare shaft tuned it easily.
I went to the ProTec LX with 75% modules and tuned it also.

When I went to the 65% modules I could not bare shaft tune anymore.

:confused: :confused:
 

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BH tune

Outdoorsman I shoot a Primos too. I also used to bare shaft tune back in the Bear Whitetail II days. I had great luck with it then with that and a TM rest, but bare shafts and Primos with TT just isnt happening. I have come to trust Broadhead testing. If I have good flight PRACTICE shooting at 60 yards with good FT/BH groups, shooting a deer at 30 shouldnt be so hard.

Good Luck!
 

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Well this sure is a complex web of input...so I'll do same :)
Forget unmeasurable /translatorial tare results some of you guys... Your misled and your probly really way out tune and are kicking your tails over. Go directly to Walkback tuning while mixing in broadheads (make posative heads are all same weight) and see if the broadheads make a straight verticle line also. If so then that is aproxamate centershot you can use. If ya want to do the bareshafting then you have to get the nock angle matching the fletched. Use all three tools... your rest windage, your nock height adjustments, and bow weight adjustments on your front limb bolts to try and bring them.
When your entry angle is off with bare your either way out tune or out of spine... Just to let ya know, when you lower your tip weight your changing your FOC and making them arrows even more susceptable to showing bareshaft differences..Chances are you will not want to go lower then the 100...

good luck :)
 
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