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I HAVE A MATHEWS Q2XL AND WAS WONDERING WHAT TO USE THIS YEAR. I HAD TWO KILLS LAST YEAR WITH CARBON AND A MECH. BROADHEAD, AND NO ARROW PASS THRU. I ALWAYS USED ALUM. ARROWS BEFORE. SOMEONE UPDATE ME AM I DOING THE RIGHT THING?
 

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I'm a diehard fixed blade guy. I'd say stick with the carbons and go to a good quality fixed blade and you'll have no problem passin' through!

What are your stats? ie. Draw weight, arrows, draw length, etc...

If you draw say 50lbs, with a 26" draw then a mechanical might not be for you. I'd say try a good cut on impact head (Steelforce, G5, Magnus) or a replaceable blade head ( Muzzy, Rocky Mtn., Thunderhead, etc..) and you should be alot happier with the performance.

Just my opinion.

Ray C.
 

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I can tell you in one word.........carbon...........I shot others for years the carbon is either perfect of trash.....after a shot just pick it up and twist it if it comes apart it is junk and if it does not it is perfect............about weight just ask Arkie he is the expert.......:D
 

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I used alums for years and they are great arrows. However, the technology has progressed to the point that carbon is hard to beat in all aspects of performance--flight, durability, consistency, economical and penetration.
 

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There are good aluminum arrows....Easton makes them. PSE makes some great carbons....But why not get the best of both worlds? Buy some Easton A/C/C's!
 

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I'm going with Beman ICS 340's this year with steelheads...Maybe you were using to big of cut mechanical...:confused:
 

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I shot aluminums briefly when I started shooting bows 4 years ago then quickly swiched to carbons for speed purposes. Well now I'm much more concerned with shot placement than speed. I found one of those old heavy aluminum arrows the other day out in my storage building. I took it out dusted it off and figured I'd shoot it just for sh*ts and giggles. I first shot a couple of my new carbons then picked up the old alu. I was really surprised at the difference. It shot quieter (which I expected). When it hit the target it sounded so loud compared the the carbons. Penatration was much deeper too. Kinda got me thinking of getting a 1/2 doz. of xx78s and giving them a try.

Jeremy
 

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doug - How about a little more info: draw weight and length, the broadhead you used, arrows used, and location of the hits on the deer, for starters... Nothing against fixed broadheads, or alums, but I've had absolutely NO PROBLEM at all getting pass-throughs on whitetails - my arrows typically bury themselves 8 to 10" into the ground after passing through a deer - a couple of which feild dressed at 200lbs+ ....

- georgestrings
 

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I debate this each year. I have killed a number of deer with carbons, aluminums, mechanicals and fixed blade heads. I hunt Northeast hardwoods and swamps, so keep in mind I rarely have an opportunity to take a shot over 30 yards.

Last year I used 2315 XX78's to take the 170 lbs 9 point you see under my name. Complete pass through @ 30 yards with my Hoyt Stiker II set at 68 lbs. This arrow hit just ahead of the front left shoulder, and travel diagonally thorugh the deer, exiting the right rear hindquarter. Now THAT is a passthrough! Buck went 40 yards

I have taken alot of deer with carbons, but keep shooting aluminum because they make my bow VERY quiet. This is a huge benefit that is sacrificed when switching to carbons. Carbons make more noise, even if they are the same weight as the aluminums. The material, for whatever reason, is just not capable of deadening sound like aluminum.

Second, I use Easton X7's to hunt with (personally I think camo on arrows is overkill and makes them harder to find after the shot). You can't get carbons as straight as these X7's (.001"), unless you spend over $100 per 12. This improves fixed blade broadhead flight tremendously. I can easily shoot any fixed blade broadhead I want with this setup.

People will say carbons are more durable. True, but I have X7's with 1000 shots on them and they are still staight as ever. Yes aluminums may break after you hit a deer. So what. I'll buy more arrows if they make my bow this quiet and are so accurate, and they only cost $60 dozen!

This is my bottom line. I think either carbon or aluminum is fine. I prefer aluminum here in the east, but out west I would probably switch to carbon. Assuming I use carbon, I prefer Easton ACC's to all carbon shafts. That said, I will be using Easton 2314 X7's this year with 90 grain Muzzy 4 blade heads. Hope that helps.
 

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Carbs/Alums

I have shot both at 25 yards. They group together.....but I have found that my bow is quietre w/ Alums. Same length.same weight head same vane......the Alims are exactly 100 grains heavier. Remember same group at 25 yards.
 

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After 10 years with carbons, I've switched back to aluminums. Go figure!

I just lost confidence in the accuracy of carbons. The best I've ever shot on a vegas round with carbons was 289. I've shot numerous 295's and a couple of 297's with 2312's and my hunting setup.

The carbons weight 385 grains and the 2312 aluminums weight 398 grains with the same 100 grain tips. Both hit the exact same spot out to my last pin of 60 yards.

The 2312's are super fragile. If you breath on them they dent or bend :)

I can live with that, as my missed shots usually hit rocks and destroy the carbons anyway. I also have a lot of carbons of all brands split at the nock end after awhile. In the end of the day I've been spending less money on the aluminums in total.

Nothing against carbons, but they just don't fly like a quality aluminum for me.

Cheers,
Pete
 

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Those that do shoot aluminums, tell me something. How do you determine what size arrow you use? Do you simply pick a size based on the arrow weight you want or is there a formula for finding out what size would work best with a given setup?

Thanks,
Jeremy
 

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Easton Archery

Download Easton's shaft selector and play around with the numbers. This will help you see how arrow specs change when your bow specs change. If you are still unsure about particular sizes (because more than one size may be correct) call Easton's tech department. They are very helpful.
 

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AMAZING!

I was just pondering this topic with the voices in my head on the way home from Snowshoe Mountain.

I have shot carbons for about 2 years and listening/reading the hype in the mags. and on TV. I have had success with both, but nothing was as comfortable as the AL shafts.

As far as speed vs. penetration vs. impact......no ammount of speed will help you if you do not practice! and a light toothpick will do nothing but make a mess if it catches bone.

REMEMBER: whatever the setup, nothing is as important as a well-placed shot.

Take everyone's advice into consideration and do some research, but only listen to ONE person........YOURSELF........! If it's not comfortable to you, why risk it.
It's expencive, frusterating, confusing, and even a lil frightning trying to choose the perfect match........but when you find it....WOW!! The spirituality of knowing your arrow has become an extention of yourself and it will fly to the mark which you have willed is MAGIC brother, pure magic.
 

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Saying

I was razed all day at the archery shop by the owner, for wearing my shirt to work. On the shirt it said,"Cunning and Stealth are better then Gizmos and Gadgets." Then he pointed to my compound. But then I took out my longbow and proceeded to put them all in the 8& 10 ring. I tok it ok as I told him he was just STRINGING ME ALONG.!!!!!!:D
 

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for spots i shoot aluminum but for everything else i shoot carbons and i shoot carbon force from pse they have excellent arrows very durable and a good weave wrap
rob k
 

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Discussion Starter #19
THANKS GUYS FOR THE INFO! I'LL REPLY SOME MORE INFO WHEN I HAVE TIME. IM LEANING TOWARDS THE A/C/C,S. IM CURRENTLY USING CARBONAEROS AND ALSO HAVE GOLDTIPS. BROADHEADS ARE MINIBLASTERS 75G. I'VE CHECKED OUT EASTONS WEBSITE, AND IT WAS HELPFULL. DRAW WT 65-68 LENTH 28"
1/4 SHOT HEART AND LUNG AREA

THANKS DOUG
 
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