For aluminum arrow shafts, go with Easton. You need to look at the Easton Aluminum arrow spine chart. The aluminum arrows have 4 numbers ( 2219, 1716, 2219, 2315, 2712 etc. The length makes a difference also. Post on here your draw weight, draw length and what you are using them for.

 

Thanks Mr. Ken. I use them for target shooting, I don't hunt with my bows. My several compound bow come in at around 37-40 pounds of draw weight and my DL is 25 inches.

My trad bows I shoot the most are 25, 29, 30, 35 pounds - long bows.

I don't fletch arrows, so I looking for complete arrows. And while I have an arrow saw, I no longer cut my carbon arrows down to any particular size.

 

I just looked at their chart and it looks like I need 1716 arrows.

 

Lancaster archery can and will fletch the shafts for you if you order from them.

 

Thanks, Mr Ken. I've used them for other things - I'll call 'em.

Here's the chart I found:

 

Thanks, Mr Ken. I've used them for other things - I'll call 'em.

Here's the chart I found:
View attachment 7265709

TERRIBLE chart to use.
Specify your brace height, the size of your bow, and the pounds on your fingers.
Then, I can figure out what size aluminum arrow, what tube length will spine correctly for your bow.

Selecting an arrow, and a chart that does NOT ask for brace, is a useless chart.

 

(with a Release) My Darton Maverick Compound is 45#s & my 1716s are cut 26 1/2", I draw into the shelf about half way. I have some with Blazers & others with a 3" low profile parabolic feather. When practicing for a 900 I sometimes shoot 6 blazers & then 6 feathered (they hit the same for me). Saves my walking back & forth so much at 60 yds..(my knees are shot, improvising)

 

If you want to shoot the Easton Platinum Plus 1716s with a longbow,
say 35 lbs on the finger,
say 62-inch longbow
say 8-inches of brace height,
the aluminum tube length should be 26-inches or 26.5-inches End of Nock Groove (ENG) to End of Shaft (EOS)
and you would need to step up to 175 grain field points (see 3Rivers Archery for heavy field points).

If your 62-inch longbow is set at only 7.5-inches of brace,
and 35 lbs on the fingers,
then, the aluminum tube length drops to 25-inches or 25.5 inches ENG to EOS
with 175 grain field points, and Blazer vanes. Less Brace means longer powerstroke, so need a shorter aluminum tube.

 

Wow, I'm sure glad you jumped in Alan. I'm getting these for my compound bows at this time, not my trad bows. I'll call Lancaster tomorrow and order 6x of the arrows to start with.

My compounds are listed in my signature. The strongest has a draw of almost 40# and the lightest is almost 37$.

 

Wow, I'm sure glad you jumped in Alan. I'll call Lancaster tomorrow and order 6x of the arrows to start with.

My compounds are listed in my signature. The strongest has a draw of almost 40# and the lightest is almost 37$.

The nice thing about field inserts, you can try heavier, you can try lighter weight on the field points, to get your arrows to tune. If you order slightly longer arrows, you ALWAYS have the option to trim off 1/4-inch shorter. As you know, your compound bows are more "forgiving" when it comes to arrow tube length, and point weight.

But, shooting FINGERS, then, the tuning becomes more picky. I coach the Senior Women's barebow field archery champion (she shoots compound fingers with no sights, and barebow recurve), and getting arrows to tune so she has her preferred point on aim distance is difficult (takes work) and her draw length is similar to your draw length.

 

Also Alan, I don't have a Hoyt Carbon Defiant, but I looked it up and wow, it's just the kind of lightweight bow I like - 3.6 lbs for the 31, bare (and just 2 oz more for the 34) and can come wiih 24-26" cams and even the 30-40# DW I prefer, with my challenged shoulders. I'm going my bow shop tomorrow and see if they have one.

 

I love Aluminums, they are the straightest arrow you can buy. I love wood, carbon, and aluminum. I have killed a fair share of animals with 2315s, 2114s, and my favorite, 2016s. My two favorite patterns were Digital Superslam Camos, and the original, Autumn Orange!

 

I like them because they are 10X easier to build and refletch and tune up later if you do hunt (I see you don't). The spec's are great and they don't cost as much for those spec's. Carbons of equal spec's will be way over that price.....maybe double.

Again as a hunter I like heavier arrows and they naturally are heavier so I don't have to buy footers, inserts or extra heavy points etc.

But all that said I have heard that saying going both ways. I have people tell me all the time I should shoot carbon because they shoot them so much better. My gut tells me they just had a better fit & tune after the switch more than it was the arrow.....at least for accuracy. N&B would probably know more about that as he helps a lot of great shooters hone their skills.

For me it's more about how they work than how I shoot them.....I can't really see a big difference there but if I had to guess I'd say I have better luck with aluminum but I like them better so maybe that's all it is.....bias........lol