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I can shoot very consistantly indoors with my evo but when i try to shoot uphill or downhill it seems that I have to pull alot harder or it goes off when I let off the safety. I have tried pulling back level and going to the target and aiming at the target and pulling back. Anyone have any suggestions on how to keep my form consistant (i think thats the problem) when shooting up or down.
Thanks,
Scott
 

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Oh, but, Danielson....you MUST have the CORRECT drawlength for BACK TENSION releases!

Waxa on....Waxa off...

It does no good to draw level and raise your arm up to the target or down to the target...you dun gotta pivot the HIPS so that your normal "T" isn't too fouled up.

If the drawlength is too long..you are going to struggle with uphill/downhill bigtime with a back tension release, and ESPECIALLY the Evolution or Evolution +, or the Revolution...

Most tend to want to overdraw on the uphills and underdraw on the downhills...thus, you are varying where you are on the "stops" or how hard you are on the stops...and thus...you ain't makin' the poundage setting on the release the same as you do on "the level".

It is better to be slightly SHORT on DL for uphill/downhill courses and NOT too long.

PRACTICE, Danielson, PRACTICE....the Evolution series of releases are NOT just layin' $160 on the table and buying that great score...oh, no....takes much more FOCUS, Danielson, FOCUS.....and Practice some more.

Good luck, and YES, back tension CAN and IS being shot outdoors...and quite well, I might add...just gotta go with the learning curve.

field14:wink::tongue:
 

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Oh, but, Danielson....you MUST have the CORRECT drawlength for BACK TENSION releases!

Waxa on....Waxa off...

It does no good to draw level and raise your arm up to the target or down to the target...you dun gotta pivot the HIPS so that your normal "T" isn't too fouled up.

If the drawlength is too long..you are going to struggle with uphill/downhill bigtime with a back tension release, and ESPECIALLY the Evolution or Evolution +, or the Revolution...

Most tend to want to overdraw on the uphills and underdraw on the downhills...thus, you are varying where you are on the "stops" or how hard you are on the stops...and thus...you ain't makin' the poundage setting on the release the same as you do on "the level".

It is better to be slightly SHORT on DL for uphill/downhill courses and NOT too long.

PRACTICE, Danielson, PRACTICE....the Evolution series of releases are NOT just layin' $160 on the table and buying that great score...oh, no....takes much more FOCUS, Danielson, FOCUS.....and Practice some more.

Good luck, and YES, back tension CAN and IS being shot outdoors...and quite well, I might add...just gotta go with the learning curve.

field14:wink::tongue:
Good post:cocktail:
 

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Oh, but, Danielson....you MUST have the CORRECT drawlength for BACK TENSION releases!

Waxa on....Waxa off...

It does no good to draw level and raise your arm up to the target or down to the target...you dun gotta pivot the HIPS so that your normal "T" isn't too fouled up.
If the drawlength is too long..you are going to struggle with uphill/downhill bigtime with a back tension release, and ESPECIALLY the Evolution or Evolution +, or the Revolution...

Most tend to want to overdraw on the uphills and underdraw on the downhills...thus, you are varying where you are on the "stops" or how hard you are on the stops...and thus...you ain't makin' the poundage setting on the release the same as you do on "the level".

It is better to be slightly SHORT on DL for uphill/downhill courses and NOT too long.

PRACTICE, Danielson, PRACTICE....the Evolution series of releases are NOT just layin' $160 on the table and buying that great score...oh, no....takes much more FOCUS, Danielson, FOCUS.....and Practice some more.

Good luck, and YES, back tension CAN and IS being shot outdoors...and quite well, I might add...just gotta go with the learning curve.

field14:wink::tongue:

And that is called Unit Aiming.
 

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Yep

I was going to suggest a Carter 2.75 for Field shooting. The head pivots and then locks when you are at anchor. Gives you the same apparent feel and rotation no matter if you are shooting level, uphill, or downhill. Works for me.
If I couldn't use a 2.75 I would go to a thumb trigger outside. I have a couple of mini evolutions and they are great indoors but a pain on a field course. You can practice with the evolution till you are blue in the face but I don't think you will ever find peace with one on any kind of field course with
technical terrain. Just my .02
Jbird
 
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