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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve owned this bow about 7-8 months. Has 2.1 cam set in E position (29”). I started tinkering with 200 grain points (ranch fairy) and realize that my bareshafts were bad.

I finally got good flight but my rest is at 15/16” from the riser, which seems out of spec. I have an EZ Green and can do my own work and believe the previous owner shimmed the cams. But I don’t think they are done correctly. Green spacers on top, black on bottom.

Shouldn’t the same thickness spacers be in the same side?





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Yes that appears to be your issue, that photo of the bottom cam, stock positioning on a Hoyt like that is for the thicker spacer to be on the right or cable side of the bow to push it left a little and the thinner one on the left or string side on a right handed bow. It is different for each bow, but that’s the “stock” spacer configuration. Right handed bow- thicker spacer on right/thinner spacer on left.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes that appears to be your issue, that photo of the bottom cam, stock positioning on a Hoyt like that is for the thicker spacer to be on the right or cable side of the bow to push it left a little and the thinner one on the left or string side on a right handed bow. It is different for each bow, but that’s the “stock” spacer configuration. Right handed bow- thicker spacer on right/thinner spacer on left.
Thanks Craig. I was thinking the same thing, but wanted to confirm. This is my first Hoyt bow. I’ll adjust and report back.


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Thanks Craig. I was thinking the same thing, but wanted to confirm. This is my first Hoyt bow. I’ll adjust and report back.


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It might be an optical illusion. My aluminum Defiant 34 with the 2.0 cam looked similar, but when I took the bottom cam off to swap the spacers I found that both spacers were the same thickness. I'll be interested to see what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do I have to fully relax the limbs to get the cam axles out?


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Before doing anything, I called Hoyt. The spacers as pictured above are stock configuration. The tech said adjusting spacers will not alter center shot and that 15/16” is within spec range. I’m tempted to leave it. The biggest issue is that it looks wonky when the arrow is at rest. I think I can deal with that if it shoots straight.


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Wow, so I’ve called before too, and received opposite answer. Funny thing is : I have the same bow and the thick spacer is on the right and the thin is on the left.
And no you can press the bow and remove the axle with fully relaxing. I’ve never heard of 15/16” being within spec. It even states in the manual I’m pretty sure that it’s 13/16” or 3/4”
Tho I could be wrong as far as the manual.
But it’s not hard just make sure your limb tip fingers are at the same angle and press the bow just enough to give you some slack. Remove cam while keeping string and cables in the tracks and attached. Swap spacers and put back together. Should fix your issue.
But if you’re comfortable shooting it at 15/16” and it shots well then leave it, and shoot it buddy. Up to you
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, they are totally different sized spacers. The 13/16” is a “starting point” according to the tech. Honestly, it doesn’t bother me that much as long as it shoots. I’m a hunter, not a spot shooter.


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Yes, they are totally different sized spacers. The 13/16” is a “starting point” according to the tech. Honestly, it doesn’t bother me that much as long as it shoots. I’m a hunter, not a spot shooter.

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Did you talk to Pete by any chance? Pete's goal is to get off the phone as fast as possible for the most part :(. 15/16 would bug the heck out of me, I would be making a change.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Spoke to Brandy


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Well I would make a change too, I’m OCD and couldn’t help it lol
But for them to tell you that swapping shims won’t affect center shot is definitely wrong. That’s exactly the point of having shims different sizes is to affect cam lean and shift the cam to the proper requirements for a good tune.
But Thats just me, I’m no expert tho. But if you can get it to shoot good and you’re comfortable then go for it buddy.
 

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Spoke to Brandy


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I don't know Brandy, but I agree with others - swapping the lower spacers WILL shift centershot, at least on every recent Hoyt I've ever worked with. You shouldn't have too move them normally, unless someone before you has been moving them around for some reason. The upper spacers should be identical width, as you typically will tune with yoke tuning there.

BUT, as I think about it, this is a Carbon Defiant, and has the 2.1 cams, which Hoyt apparently had to come up with all kinds of Voodoo to get the No 2 range right and tunable on those, so not sure if something changed with the move from 2.0 to 2.1 to be honest.

In the end it's up to you, if it's shooting strait an arrows are flying true, you may not want to change anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So a weird thing happened today while tinkering. I decided to put on a broad head... 125g SlickTrick. The BH shot 3-4” left of the FP. I end up slowly moving the rest right to get the FP and BH to match point if impact and guess where the rest ended up? 3/4” off the riser.

So what good is bareshaft tuning!? I should’ve gone straight to BH tuning since that’s what I care about anyway! Sheesh.


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