Centerpoint Wrath 430 shorcomings

4946 Views 29 Replies 6 Participants Last post by RHVA, 5 mo ago

northernDude

Discussion Starter · 9 mo ago

1. Quiver. It is incredibly hard to push an arrow in it. I've even ruined one arrow. Any solution?..

2. Ugly cheap stock scope. It does not let you benefit the advantages of this crossbow.
I replaced it with Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32 XBR-2. This one has reticle out to 100 yds - somewhat better a scope, but I experience effects of its fixed 45yds parallax from 60+ yds. Also, it is somewhat longer body than the original stock scope, which makes me (being 6ft tall) cramped while aiming. The scope was installed/moved all the way forward. One of possible remedies would be to move the scope even more forward or to have a shorter scope. So I'm looking to get extension scope rings. This Vortex also exhibits edge distortions, especially when shooting 90 and 100 yds marks which together with parallax does not help you to hit targets best way. Vortex could do better job for this scope. The clarity is good though.
I was also looking at Hawke XB1 1.5-5x32 SR but I did not like the reticle. I want it to be illuminated at least until 80 yds dot. This bow lets you hit an apple sized target at such a distance.
Hawke XB30 Compact 1.5-6x36 SR has better reticle and +$100 over Vortex, length is 9.3" -- not really compact. No point to go for it in comparison to the above mentioned Vortex. I do not know about the distortions. Did not have a chance to hold this scope in my hands yet.
Any other choices?

3. The stock. It is advertised as a compact crossbow. As already said in p.2, I feel cramped when aiming this thing. I wish I could have at least 1" longer stock. I check it and I do not see how can I extend it.

Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Air gun Musical instrument

Otherwise, it is a lot of crossbow for its price. The cable machine is reliable and long lasting. Someone on Youtube says it has hundreds of shots on it with no issues.

Let me know what you think, fellows.

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easterbunny

· #2 · 9 mo ago

Could you exchange the crossbow for the 430x? This crossbow has the extendable stock.
The picatinny rail can be removed and a longer one purchased on Amazon. This will allow
use of a longer scope that can also be moved farther forward.

One wants a scope with a front parallax adjustment that starts at 10 yards and goes to 200
or 300 plus infinity. Infinity is the 8 laid on its side. As for the 10 yard dot on the front parallax,
some scopes will go well below that.
Depending what scope one gets, the IR can be red and green with 5 settings each. Another
version comes in red, blue and green with 3 settings each.
A nice scope has the mill dots with the heavy cross hair vertical and horizontal (one of each
at the ends of the mill dots which does not clutter up the scope).

Lots of high quality scopes being manufactured in China providing the crossbow has little to no
recoil. Most come with the low rings, but higher rings can be purchased on Amazon as well as
these scopes.
Amazon usually allows up to 30 days for a return if one is not satisfied.

To improve cable life, get rid of the cable slide which chews up the cables. Serve this area with
BCY .030 serving and lightly lube everything with Trident Silicone Grease.
For crossbows shooting 1/2 moon nocks, install a layer of the mentioned BCY .030 in the arrow
latch area, just the width of the rail-stock. The hooks will fit on the out side of this layer. When
ever this has to be reserved that is all instead of the full length of the original arrow-latch serving.

A wee dab of Gorilla Glue at the ends of all servings is an added insurance against serving separation.

With the extendable stock, one can modify the butt end to use the plug in style crank cocking device
similar to what some of the rebranded Rocky Mountain crossbows use. Another crank cocking device
has a bracket that mounts tight below the scope area of the extendable butt stock. The problem with
this set up is that bracket prevents the butt stock from fully collapsing for a shorter armed person.

Center Point crossbows properly tuned, using a level bubble on the scope or picatinny rail, a good
rest and no wind are extremely accurate. My opinion here is in the design of the rail-stock.

Another advantage for crossbows using arrows with 1/2 moon nocks is the 20" Blood Sport Witness
arrows. These arrows are manufactured in China, originally for Plano Synergy. They are available
at some Wal Marts, EBay and Amazon. The 20 inch are classed as weight forward where the insert
weighs 95 grain. The 22 inch insert weighs 77 grain. Both arrows weigh the same averaging 325 grain
with out a point. These arrows are extremely accurate.

Note: as a word of caution, remove the push in nock and using a 1/4" rod and gently tap out the insert.
The brass insert is fairly smooth. Reglue the insert in with Gorilla Glue. The reason I mention this is one
does not want to lose a point with an insert or worse yet a broadhead in the target.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

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northernDude

Discussion Starter · #3 · 9 mo ago

Hi easterbunny,
first of all thanks for all the valuable input.

easterbunny said:
Could you exchange the crossbow for the 430x? This crossbow has the extendable stock.

I saw the 430X later.
But, out of various reviews I understood that the only advantage of that stock that it is foldable. I did not know that it is extendable also. So here I take your word. You seem to have experience with both of them. Moreover, it is too late to exchange my 430, as it is used. Only if to sell it, which would be money loss and hassle. So maybe I'll keep it for this season, find a solution to move the scope slightly more forward then see.

The picatinny rail can be removed and a longer one purchased on Amazon. This will allow
use of a longer scope that can also be moved farther forward.

what do you think of this solution?

dlairgun.com

30mm 2 Piece Reach Forward Mount - High (22127)(HWK-MN-014)

(HM7216) (22127) 2 inch extension configuration High - to accommodate larger objective scopes Double hex screws to hold your scope firmly in place Weaver version features crossbar for additional security Internal cushion tape prevents marking and damage High grade aluminum anodized in matte black

dlairgun.com

- this would let me move it forward about 1" - which I think would be enough.
Otherwise, please drop a link to that longer rail if you don't mind.

One wants a scope with a front parallax adjustment that starts at 10 yards and goes to 200
or 300 plus infinity. Infinity is the 8 laid on its side. As for the 10 yard dot on the front parallax,
some scopes will go well below that.
Depending what scope one gets, the IR can be red and green with 5 settings each. Another
version comes in red, blue and green with 3 settings each.
A nice scope has the mill dots with the heavy cross hair vertical and horizontal (one of each
at the ends of the mill dots which does not clutter up the scope).

- this sounds like an airgun scope, right? I haven't seen a scope for crossbow with parallax adjustment.
But if it is a non-crosbbow scope, then the mil dots won't be suitable for crossbow usage.

Lots of high quality scopes being manufactured in China providing the crossbow has little to no
recoil. Most come with the low rings, but higher rings can be purchased on Amazon as well as
these scopes.
Amazon usually allows up to 30 days for a return if one is not satisfied.

I'm not sure in regards of the "crossbow has little to no recoil". I think the Wrath 430 has some recoil, not too much though, still.
I imagine that some of China manufactured scopes can be of OK quality. But I think it can be hard to find them among the rest of junky ones. If you could point me at some tested ones and proven to work well - this would be appreciated.

To improve cable life, get rid of the cable slide which chews up the cables. Serve this area with
BCY .030 serving and lightly lube everything with Trident Silicone Grease.
For crossbows shooting 1/2 moon nocks, install a layer of the mentioned BCY .030 in the arrow
latch area, just the width of the rail-stock. The hooks will fit on the out side of this layer. When
ever this has to be reserved that is all instead of the full length of the original arrow-latch serving.

A wee dab of Gorilla Glue at the ends of all servings is an added insurance against serving separation.

this is good tip. Thanks.

With the extendable stock, one can modify the butt end to use the plug in style crank cocking device
similar to what some of the rebranded Rocky Mountain crossbows use. Another crank cocking device
has a bracket that mounts tight below the scope area of the extendable butt stock. The problem with
this set up is that bracket prevents the butt stock from fully collapsing for a shorter armed person.

Center Point crossbows properly tuned, using a level bubble on the scope or picatinny rail, a good
rest and no wind are extremely accurate. My opinion here is in the design of the rail-stock.

I do not bother much about the crank cocking device. I'm kinda impatient to use them and also like minimalistic approach )) , so the cocking rope - is all I need.
When needed I also manage to decock it using only that rope ))

Another advantage for crossbows using arrows with 1/2 moon nocks is the 20" Blood Sport Witness
arrows. These arrows are manufactured in China, originally for Plano Synergy. They are available
at some Wal Marts, EBay and Amazon. The 20 inch are classed as weight forward where the insert
weighs 95 grain. The 22 inch insert weighs 77 grain. Both arrows weigh the same averaging 325 grain
with out a point. These arrows are extremely accurate.

Note: as a word of caution, remove the push in nock and using a 1/4" rod and gently tap out the insert.
The brass insert is fairly smooth. Reglue the insert in with Gorilla Glue. The reason I mention this is one
does not want to lose a point with an insert or worse yet a broadhead in the target.

Ok, I've just bookmarked these. The reviews are high for these bolts.

Thanks again.

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easterbunny

· #4 · 9 mo ago

As for the longer picatinny rail, go to Amazon.ca and do a search for "picatinny rail".
I have two Center Point Sniper XT 390 that I removed their picatinny rails and modified
picatinny rails from the rebranded Rocky Mountain 405 and 415 because of repeated
limb failures.
The scope I am having good success with is the Goetland 3-12x40 rifle scope which I have
mounted on two Center Point Sniper XT390 crossbows. One crossbow is converted to a Heat
415 riser assembly.
I have SVBONY but using them on the Rocky Mountain crossbows destroyed the crosshairs
due to the high recoil. These scopes were advertised as fog proof, shock proof and some recoil
proof. All these scopes are listed for a rifle. These scopes were purchased on Amazon.ca and
like other things once sold, they may not be getting them back as per Amazon quotes.

The scope that seems to stand up on the Rocky Mountain crossbows is the Ravin scope.
I am not in favor of this scope as it has the speed ring. Any adjustment to better view a
target before or after the shot, one has to reset to the original setting that the crossbow
was sighted in for.

As for the extendable stock I mentioned, I went by the picture, so possibly it only folds. This
could possibly be modified to one that does extend??

In regards to a scope with mill dots, one can still use them or install and HHA Optimizer
between the scope and the picatinny rail. The mill dots is no different than a crossbow
scope with all the lines. One sights in a certain yardage at the center then goes from there.

The faster the crossbow in feet per second, the flatter it shoots.

As for the Burris and OracleX scopes, they are far too expensive to buy or import into
Canada. The lower power for me is another draw back in regards to target shooting.

The scope rings you supplied a link to would be an advantage. Just make sure the scope
you have is 30 millimeter as most scopes are 25. Some scope rings have a removable 25
millimeter ring which then allows one to use a 30 millimeter diameter scope. The Ravin
scope I have uses 30 millimeter rings.

If one decides to go for a short barrel scope one has no room to add accessories.

The scopes with the adjustable parallax can be used on a rifle as well. Most rifle scopes
the parallax is fixed for a certain yardage. Some of those scopes, one removes an outer
lock ring and then finely adjusts the inner ring. Some scopes have to be sent back to the
manufacturer to make the required adjustment due to this inner lock ring requiring a special
tool that fits into two tiny slots. Any slippage can damage the scope lens.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

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northernDude

Discussion Starter · #5 · 9 mo ago

The guy shoots Wrath 430 equipped with Burris OracleX

And hey, Cabelas.ca has them on sale at $1079.99 right now, but not online and limited stock in Barrie, ON only. Unfortunately, it is too far away from me.

Reactions: 1

easterbunny

· #6 · 9 mo ago

northernDude said:
The guy shoots Wrath 430 equipped with Burris OracleX

And hey, Cabelas.ca has them on sale at $1079.99 right now, but not online and limited stock in Barrie, ON only. Unfortunately, it is too far away from me.

What I did not care for was it only goes to 7 power, then the high price.
I saw the scope listed at Cabela's website several days ago.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

northernDude

Discussion Starter · #7 · 9 mo ago

2

OK, so I've installed those Hawke extension rings today.

Air gun Trigger Machine gun Gun barrel Shotgun

now it is easier to maintain the eye relief. When I mount the stock up, my cheek bone almost touching that little hump which also helps to maintain consistency.

But accuracy and grouping still leave something to be desired. It is not too bad though. But I know that this bow is capable to do it better. Here is the 60 yds result.

Automotive tire Plant Grass Gas Wheel

The arrow which is low and between two circles has been aimed at the central small circle and it has a Muzzy 125gr broadhead which is equipped with practice dull blades. For some odd reason this arrow always go 7" lower than the field points of same 125gr weight. Why? Does it generate more drag?..
I'm trying to guess what impairs the grouping: scope parallax or quality of the Centerpoint bolts?
Btw, I've noticed that these bolts slightly wiggle their tails while flying. I guess this can be the main reason... Why they wiggle? Poor bolts? Maybe the 125gr heads/tips are too much for these bolts? I wish to stick with 125gr heads.

I will also order and try those Bloodsport bolts which seem to have favorable reviews.

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easterbunny

· #8 · 9 mo ago (Edited)

The arrow that is going lower, did you try to swap the point for a field point?
A good percentage of broadheads will not hit the same point of impact as
field points. My suggestion is to sight in with what ever arrow-point combination
one wishes to shoot, whether target shooting or hunting.

As for the wiggle, possibly the spine of the arrow is not stiff enough.
Here is a link to a video on the Wrath 430. It explains how to install
an arrow in the quiver, as he had the same problem.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

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northernDude

Discussion Starter · #9 · 9 mo ago

ok, good point.
Then I will make 1...2 more BHs with practice blades then adjust the elevation to accomadate that 7" difference and be done with that.
I appreciate your help.
Thank you.

Reactions: 1

northernDude

Discussion Starter · #10 · 9 mo ago

easterbunny said:
Here is a link to a video on the Wrath 430. It explains how to install
an arrow in the quiver, as he had the same problem.

yeah, I saw both videos of this guy.
I install my arrows even smoother, something like slightly rotating while pushing it in - this also helps.

And after today's shooting I see that I need to follow your advice: "install a layer of the mentioned BCY .030 in the arrow latch area".
The only problem is that I do not have access to a bow press. So I think maybe I will get away by installing a piece of cork under the cable in order to lift it 1/4" up above the rail so to be able to wrap that serving around somehow. This will be a sort of gynecology workshop. But what else can I do. The guy on that video says he has been shooting his Wrath for few months and hundreds of shots. So far I've done only about a hundred and start seeing a fluff.

Wood Automotive tire Rectangle Font Mesh

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easterbunny

· #11 · 9 mo ago

One can partially cock the crossbow and block the cams with Phillips or Robertson
screw drivers. Back of with the cocking device. Remove the bow string. If one has a
ratchet strap and a vice that is all that is required to apply tension to the bow string
when doing a serving. Put a round screwdriver with the point up right in the vise and
put one loop of the bowstring over it.
Put one hook of the ratchet strap in the other bowstring loop and anchor the other end
of the ratchet strap to something that does not move easily.

Find the center of the bowstring and mark it with white out. Figure out the total width
of the required serving and split the measurement on each side of the mark that was
made for the center of the bow string.

Note: just remember to have twists in the bowstring as once an area is served, there
is no adding or removing twists in the served area.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

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northernDude

Discussion Starter · #12 · 9 mo ago

easterbunny said:
One can partially cock the crossbow and block the cams with Phillips or Robertson
screw drivers. Back of with the cocking device. Remove the bow string.
. . .

Sir,
you're the library of archery knowledge. I tip my hat to you.
I've removed the string, added serving and put it back. The only thing is that my BCY is 0.020 not 0.030 like you suggested. But this makes the string less thick in the latch area , which is probably not a bad thing.
Will shoot it tonight again.
Thanks!

Reactions: 1

easterbunny

· #13 · 9 mo ago

northernDude said:
Sir,
you're the library of archery knowledge. I tip my hat to you.
I've removed the string, added serving and put it back. The only thing is that my BCY is 0.020 not 0.030 like you suggested. But this makes the string less thick in the latch area , which is probably not a bad thing.
Will shoot it tonight again.
Thanks!

Happy to hear things worked out for you.
Take care.

Reactions: 1

northernDude

Discussion Starter · #14 · 9 mo ago

easterbunny said:
Another advantage for crossbows using arrows with 1/2 moon nocks is the 20" Blood Sport Witness
arrows. These arrows are manufactured in China, originally for Plano Synergy. They are available
at some Wal Marts, EBay and Amazon. The 20 inch are classed as weight forward where the insert
weighs 95 grain. The 22 inch insert weighs 77 grain. Both arrows weigh the same averaging 325 grain
with out a point. These arrows are extremely accurate.

ordered a dozen of these 20" arrows and received them from Amazon today. They look good to me. The vanes are 3" and low profile - just what I like. I tried to screw in a field tip half-way then to pull at it. The insert does not seem to come out. Maybe the factory listened to complaints on Amazon and fixed the problem. I don't know.
Most of my BHs are 125gr, so I plan on using them.
I've also ordered some lighted nocks.
Do you think such a setup will make good FOC under 20%?
What weight is of your BHs?

easterbunny

· #15 · 9 mo ago

northernDude said:
ordered a dozen of these 20" arrows and received them from Amazon today. They look good to me. The vanes are 3" and low profile - just what I like. I tried to screw in a field tip half-way then to pull at it. The insert does not seem to come out. Maybe the factory listened to complaints on Amazon and fixed the problem. I don't know.
Most of my BHs are 125gr, so I plan on using them.
I've also ordered some lighted nocks.
Do you think such a setup will make good FOC under 20%?
What weight is of your BHs?

The majority of the broadheads I have tested are 100 grain.
If I use 125 grain field points, then I will use 125 grain broad heads.
I do have some Excalibur 150 grain broad heads but for the price
and design they are not worth the money. Hitting any hard object
the blades will bend.

What ever broad head I decide to shoot, my crossbow is sighted
in for those as I will not totally rely on field point and broad head
matching accuracy.
Lighted nocks will add 15 to 20 grain more weight to the back of
the arrow, so going say from 100 grain point to 125 will help out.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

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northernDude

Discussion Starter · #16 · 8 mo ago

5

OK, some more weak points:
1. The quiver latch has broke off. It has broke on me during hunting, so I had no other choice but to put the quiver with arrows into my backpack. I haven't used the latch even a dozen of times yet.
2. The quiver itself is poorly designed. Front cup is shallow, it does not protect the broadhead blades. The blades stay exposed above the cup edge and can cut you or anything what touches them. This is exactly what happened to me during hunting. The broken latch caused me to put the quiver into backpak then I needed to take something, pushed my hand into backpack and got my thumb finger cut and bleeding.
3. Bolt fletching touches the bottom of riser cutout when arrow leaves the rail slot. I was wondering why arrow wiggling its tail while in flight then saw a subtle mark which was left by fletching - this is the exact cause. Pull the arrow through and watch - it touches that area. The solution is to use bolts with low profile fletching. This is quite an overlook on Centerpoint part.
4. The string stops both are shaky. I was trying to tighten up the pin bolts to fix the slack, but this does not help. Is it by design?
5. The bottom cables rub at each other in the crossing area. I do not know how it impacts the cable life. The time will tell. There was a solution suggested in this thread to remove the plastic thing. But I think the removal can cause cable to cut through the rail slot underneath which then would be an issue.
6. The Centerpoint crossbow case looks like good quality. But the top arrow pocket is too short to accomodate the quiver together with arrows. It needs to be at least 2-3" longer. When quiver attached to the crossbow it does not fit into the case, so you have to detach ...then there is no other choice but to put it somewhere inside the main compartment of case, which makes the arrow pocket useless. Make sure to turn the quiver broadhead side toward the butt stock, otherwise you risk to ruin your cable because the blades are unprotected and exposed.

Everything else is good. I'm able to hit 4..5" circle at 100yds using this crossbow.
Well, I've taken a moose a week ago. It was some 30 yds shot. I had to shoot the bull into the left part of his chest which caused intense blood flow literally like if you knocked over a bottle of wine. The broadhead has stopped inside the animal and cut another exit hole behind left front leg - there I saw another trickle of blood flowing. Oh man, it was a surreal scene. After the shot that bull walked toward me, so I had to side step to hide myself behind a tree. But he stopped in front of me 2yds away then turned rightward. I do not know if he was still thinking I'm a cow or the intention was to kick my ar$e...
Walked another 25..30 yds while heavily breathing, then expired. Everything happened in front of me and under 10 minutes.
I've even managed to take a short video of moose's last 25 yds using my smartphone...
The main reason to take chest shot was because 5 min before that bull I had another bigger one which came out only 15...18yds in front of me and strictly head forward. I tried to move toward his right broad side, but the bull busted me turned around and ran away without panic though. So when the bigger bull left the younger one saw an opportunity to mate then walked straight toward me ))

Wood Rectangle Denim Bag Tool

Plant Branch Vegetation Biome Grass

Cheers,
northernDude

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easterbunny

· #17 · 8 mo ago

Congratulation on a successful hunt.
Thanks for sharing.
In regards to the picture of the arrow, the Blazer vanes are too high.
The cables where they pass through the cable slide are already served.
Get rid of the cable slide and lube that area with Trident Silicone Grease.
Cable slides tend to chew up the cables.
Most of my crossbows did not have serving on the cables in the cable slide
area. I eliminated the cable slides and served that area with BCY .030 serving
and have several thousand shots on them.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

Reactions: 1

TX_RDXguy

· #18 · 8 mo ago

My 2 cents on these Wrath points. FWIW I've had the 430 since it was available this past year. It's one of many xbows I have had, used and built over the course of 7 years from several manufacturers.

OK, some more weak points:

1. The quiver latch has broke off. It has broke on me during hunting, so I had no other choice but to put the quiver with arrows into my backpack. I haven't used the latch even a dozen of times yet.
I've used this same latch/lever setup since the Sniper in 2017 and other than flipping it and adding a spacer on the bracket, I have had no issue with it. I can understand if the receiver and quiver are not fully slid into place, the smallish lever could be stressed and broken.

2. The quiver itself is poorly designed. Front cup is shallow, it does not protect the broadhead blades. The blades stay exposed above the cup edge and can cut you or anything what touches them. This is exactly what happened to me during hunting. The broken latch caused me to put the quiver into backpak then I needed to take something, pushed my hand into backpack and got my thumb finger cut and bleeding.
The depth of the hooded area of the quiver is only 1/2"ish to the pad. I use long broadheads so if you can pull the pad from the cover, you should gain 1.5" or have about 2" of space. With the twin rubber shaft holders of the quiver, you can slide the shafts as far up into the hooded area and they will stay in place.

3. Bolt fletching touches the bottom of riser cutout when arrow leaves the rail slot. I was wondering why arrow wiggling its tail while in flight then saw a subtle mark which was left by fletching - this is the exact cause. Pull the arrow through and watch - it touches that area. The solution is to use bolts with low profile fletching. This is quite an overlook on Centerpoint part.
The cutout on my 430 and 430X measures 17mm, the flight rail is slightly deeper. I did some measurements on various arrows and vane depth is typically 12-14mm. I don't have a factory arrow to check but if they are greater than 17mm, I'd be surprised.

4. The string stops both are shaky. I was trying to tighten up the pin bolts to fix the slack, but this does not help. Is it by design?
An allen head jamb screw on the bottom of the base which holds the dampner shaft in place. It has a locking compound on them and can be hard to move (tighten or loosen). That screw should tighten the dampner shaft. There also is a small amount of forward/aft adjustment that can be made.

5. The bottom cables rub at each other in the crossing area. I do not know how it impacts the cable life. The time will tell. There was a solution suggested in this thread to remove the plastic thing. But I think the removal can cause cable to cut through the rail slot underneath which then would be an issue.
This is common to the xbows and a non-issue long term as long as you keep the cables clean and maintained. The cable guide should stay in place IMO, vs the cables contacting the aluminum flight rail.

Congratulations on the moose! That's awesome!

View attachment 7708071

Nose Cheek Smile Thumbs signal Jaw

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northernDude

Discussion Starter · #19 · 8 mo ago

easterbunny said:
Congratulation on a successful hunt.
Thanks for sharing.
In regards to the picture of the arrow, the Blazer vanes are too high.
The cables where they pass through the cable slide are already served.
Get rid of the cable slide and lube that area with Trident Silicone Grease.
Cable slides tend to chew up the cables.
Most of my crossbows did not have serving on the cables in the cable slide
area. I eliminated the cable slides and served that area with BCY .030 serving
and have several thousand shots on them.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

TX_RDXguy said:
My 2 cents on these Wrath points. FWIW I've had the 430 since it was available this past year. It's one of many xbows I have had, used and built over the course of 7 years from several manufacturers.

OK, some more weak points:

1. The quiver latch has broke off. It has broke on me during hunting, so I had no other choice but to put the quiver with arrows into my backpack. I haven't used the latch even a dozen of times yet.
I've used this same latch/lever setup since the Sniper in 2017 and other than flipping it and adding a spacer on the bracket, I have had no issue with it. I can understand if the receiver and quiver are not fully slid into place, the smallish lever could be stressed and broken.

2. The quiver itself is poorly designed. Front cup is shallow, it does not protect the broadhead blades. The blades stay exposed above the cup edge and can cut you or anything what touches them. This is exactly what happened to me during hunting. The broken latch caused me to put the quiver into backpak then I needed to take something, pushed my hand into backpack and got my thumb finger cut and bleeding.
The depth of the hooded area of the quiver is only 1/2"ish to the pad. I use long broadheads so if you can pull the pad from the cover, you should gain 1.5" or have about 2" of space. With the twin rubber shaft holders of the quiver, you can slide the shafts as far up into the hooded area and they will stay in place.

3. Bolt fletching touches the bottom of riser cutout when arrow leaves the rail slot. I was wondering why arrow wiggling its tail while in flight then saw a subtle mark which was left by fletching - this is the exact cause. Pull the arrow through and watch - it touches that area. The solution is to use bolts with low profile fletching. This is quite an overlook on Centerpoint part.
The cutout on my 430 and 430X measures 17mm, the flight rail is slightly deeper. I did some measurements on various arrows and vane depth is typically 12-14mm. I don't have a factory arrow to check but if they are greater than 17mm, I'd be surprised.

4. The string stops both are shaky. I was trying to tighten up the pin bolts to fix the slack, but this does not help. Is it by design?
An allen head jamb screw on the bottom of the base which holds the dampner shaft in place. It has a locking compound on them and can be hard to move (tighten or loosen). That screw should tighten the dampner shaft. There also is a small amount of forward/aft adjustment that can be made.

5. The bottom cables rub at each other in the crossing area. I do not know how it impacts the cable life. The time will tell. There was a solution suggested in this thread to remove the plastic thing. But I think the removal can cause cable to cut through the rail slot underneath which then would be an issue.
This is common to the xbows and a non-issue long term as long as you keep the cables clean and maintained. The cable guide should stay in place IMO, vs the cables contacting the aluminum flight rail.

Congratulations on the moose! That's awesome!

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hi gentlemen,
thanks for the congrats. I wish you happy hunting this season.
As for the cable slide, I see two different opinions here. I think I will leave it 'as is' for now. I will spray some amount of dry teflon lube into it to minimize the friction. It is kinda pain and waste of time for me to unscrew and remove the riser.
I've already pushed my broadheads into that rubber pad nearly all the way down. Those two in the center seem to sit better now, but the ones which sitting at the left and right ends still have their baldes exposed. I use Muzzy 125gr 3-blade boradheads.
"I don't have a factory arrow to check but if they are greater than 17mm, I'd be surprised." - well, they are ...

I will unscrew then check the dampers to see what can be done to get rid of that shakiness.

Your input is appreciated.
Thanks again.

Reactions: 1

TX_RDXguy

· #20 · 8 mo ago

northernDude said:
hi gentlemen,
thanks for the congrats. I wish you happy hunting this season.
As for the cable slide, I see two different opinions here. I think I will leave it 'as is' for now. I will spray some amount of dry teflon lube into it to minimize the friction. It is kinda pain and waste of time for me to unscrew and remove the riser.
I've already pushed my broadheads into that rubber pad nearly all the way down. Those two in the center seem to sit better now, but the ones which sitting at the left and right ends still have their baldes exposed. I use Muzzy 125gr 3-blade boradheads.
"I don't have a factory arrow to check but if they are greater than 17mm, I'd be surprised." - well, they are ...

I will unscrew then check the dampers to see what can be done to get rid of that shakiness.

Your input is appreciated.
Thanks again.

Try pulling the foam out of the quiver and you might be surprised how that opens things up. It also eliminates blade contact with the foam. You can always put it back.

I promise that tightening those two set screws will lock down those string silencer shafts.

Reactions: 1

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