You have your level on your string
You check your riser for level I use a Hamskea for that. Then I put another Hamskea on my site. But a small 8 to 12 inch carpenters level or just a square small level.


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You have your level on your string
You check your riser for level I use a Hamskea for that. Then I put another Hamskea on my site. But a small 8 to 12 inch carpenters level or just a square small level.


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I've been using the hamskea for a few years now. I know how to use and setup the level, i'm moreso questioning the accuracy of the hamskea level. I never noticed it much with my other sight and the other bow's i've setup have been with beginners so they don't much notice the difference. But as fat as using a spirit level to check the bow's level, would the riser really be a good place? If the riser has dips or other odd design features i'd think that would lend itself to having level issues.

 

Only problem with putting a level on your limbs is the fact that your cams may not be both in the same offset from the limbs due to tuning Etc. You really want to level your string to be accurate.

 

This was my thought as well. I don't have cam lean but i didn't know how else to run a level on a flat surface on the bow.

 

In other words, Your riser and limbs might show level but your string might not.

 

Has anyone run into a situation with the Hamskea where if you put it on the string one way, it’s level, then flip it around 180 degrees from where it is and it reads different? Also, without moving the bow in the vise, I place the level in a different vertical position on the string and it reads different as well. Am I doing something wrong or is it possible that I got a lemon third axis level and should return it for a replacement?

 

Mine does this which is why I’m inquiring.

 

Why not take out all the guesswork and just shoot in your axis'?

 

I shoot in the third. It’s the second I’m more concerned with. I set my third inside and tweak it through shooting. But getting it as close as possible takes out at least one variable.

 

Been trying to confirm 1, 2, & 3 axis myself. Got a pipe level from hardware store, $12. Less efficient than two pro levels, but it works and the price is nice.

 

Watch Tim Gillingham shoot his bow canted and then then realize it really does not matter. I used to be meticulous about all that. I finally realized that as long as second and third axis are based off sight bar being level, you can set first to whatever you want it to be.

 

You need a two way level to properly level the string. Use the Hamskea on your sight bar and set your axis from there

 

Post leveler is cheaper and accurate. The longer the area you can level the more accurate you will be. I'm an old brick mason.
A 4ft level matched to the string will work. Or you can put the level onto the top/bottom riser and measure if the string measures the same distance top to bottom. If not add tape layers to one side till they are equal and that will work at that spot.
Any very short level like that will have variance when you turn it another direction. I think it is partly to do with the string twists and how even they are. Putting the hamskea on serving areas will probably be the most accurate.
I'm still planning on buying hamskea but mostly for attaching to and leveling the sight.
But for the string I will continue using this.
When I bought it I went through the stack of them at home Depot and compared each to a 4ft level at the store one a level/plumb shelf post and found the truest one because they are cheap and typically not super accurate.

 

I was actually placing the Hamskea on the serving which is what surprised me. I think I’ll do the same thing you did on the string. I agree, the longest span you can get is the best.

 

The thing that drives me crazy is I use the gen 2 as well and the levels from podium archery that goes on the string as well as I think it’s the omp like the cheap ones on amazon with the one that clips on your arrow and they all read something different. They are close but sure not perfect.


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The thing that drives me crazy is I use the gen 2 as well and the levels from podium archery that goes on the string as well as I think it’s the omp like the cheap ones on amazon with the one that clips on your arrow and they all read something different. They are close but sure not perfect.


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I’ve got the Gen 2 as well. The variances don’t make any sense to me. I was, however, able to get it all sorted out and have all three axes properly aligned. I used multiple levels to get the job done but I just had to get all the levels to match within reason. The rest of the tuning can be done via shooting and fine tuning the third axis from there.

 

The string and riser have nothing to do with leveling the sight. Watch the Paige Pearce video on leveling the sight. You will set your sight for your natural cant, no need to force your bow arm into an unnatural position. Also, watch her video on setting-up the bow for the best aiming/hold.

 

I agree with Bikeman CU. Gravity pulls arrows to the ground on a plumb line, crossbow bolts and arrows alike.
The elevation bar needs to be plumb in every situation.

 

Do your peep-anchor (string) and sight bar axis not need to be on the same plane? Without those being on the same plane, I don’t see a way the accuracy will be good without those things being correct to each other.

 

If your string and elevation bar had to be on the same plane, there would be no way to adjust for a natural cant. You could lay the bow over 45 degrees, as long as your elevation bar or row of pins was plumb with the world at full draw.

 

I ordered the podium archer string level so i'll have string level and third axis level now. We'll see how it does!

 

You can plumb your bow with a 4' level also.
Put your bow in a vice.
Plumb it front to back from limb pocket to limb pocket. Now that that's done, plumb out cant by setting your 4' level axle to axle and plumb it up, if you want to plumb the string just adjust your level so it's parallel to the string and plumb it up.

Personally, I haven't seen any benefit to plumbing the string vs plumbing axle to axle. My logic as to why, is that my D-loop is in a fixed position and doesn't slide up and down the string so what difference does it make?

 

I checked the levels on the podium archery level after getting it and can confirm they're both dead on. They both sat dead center of the vial on a known level surface.

 

Do all the leveling you are capable of … don’t forget to French Tune. 10-30yds. You’ll be surprised

 

Yes. I’m going to recheck my sight tape as well since I don’t shoot out past 60 much. Had to adjust my third axis slightly today so I’ll check that too. And then French tune!

 

I usually use 2 round cylinder levels in the machined cut outs on the riser for front to back and one for side x side. Front to back level matches the level built into my arrow rest, then check the level of the string and it seems to always match up. I maybe nuts but it seems to work.