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Hey guys! I have a tuning question for everyone. I’m shooting a left handed Chill-R. I bought the bow new back in 15 and shot it regularly for a couple years the way the pro shop set it up. I noticed back then that I was getting some fletching contact on the riser. I never paid any attention to it cause it shot well and truthfully since it was my first bow I didn’t really know much at all about tuning.

Fast forward to now, and i’m getting back into shooting and after some research found that Mathews recommends tuning through the Berger hole and 13/16” center shot. After looking at my bow, it was set up well above the Berger hole, and my arrow was running parallel to the riser but 5/8” off it which explains the contact. I shot it through paper to see what it was doing and had a severe tail left tear. So I redid my knocking points and rest. Have the arrow running through the hole, and 13/16” off the riser and shot it again and got a much better tear but still tail left. I shot through paper at about 3ft and at about 5 yards with the same result. I was encouraged with those results BUT now my arrow is cocked out to the right of the riser/shelf. It runs out and at an angle.

Is this normal? Doesn’t look right at all. Is this a top hat issue?

I’m running 30” mods, 70lbs and Easton Hexx arrows, 330 spine at 28” with 100 grain .

Thoughts?

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I could easily be wrong, but I believe the Mathews recommendations are only a starting point. With this being a combination of a high and right tear tackle either the horizontal or vertical movement first, then the other. This chart should help, but it is important to remember to correct one issue at a time. The moment you convolute the remedies is when you start getting into trouble:
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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I get the recommendations are a starting point, just kind of wild to see that arrow stick out so much. I'm going to bring the rest back into the riser a bit to try to draw that arrow in a bit.
 

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If you have room to shim the cams to the left, that might get rid of all of the problem but since your rest is so far out and you still have a nock left, I'd bet it wouldn't get it completely taken care of. If it doesn't do it completely, I'd be inclined to put blame on your grip. Too much pressure on the right edge of the grip will cause a persistent nock left condition. You might have to rotate your hand more clockwise to get a little more meat of your thumb on that left side of the grip.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you have room to shim the cams to the left, that might get rid of all of the problem but since your rest is so far out and you still have a nock left, I'd bet it wouldn't get it completely taken care of. If it doesn't do it completely, I'd be inclined to put blame on your grip. Too much pressure on the right edge of the grip will cause a persistent nock left condition. You might have to rotate your hand more clockwise to get a little more meat of your thumb on that left side of the grip.
I don't doubt you, for now, I definitely believe there is something up with the spacing. I will try and switch the top hats the next time I am in the pro shop. Currently, if i'm looking at the bow from behind, the thicker top hat is on the left of the top cam. I haven't really looked at the bottom cam.

If I can get it looking somewhat normal i'll be happy and will work on my grip till its perfect. Currently the way the arrow is running though, something doesn't look right.
 

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It is definitely not right. The arrow should run parallel to the riser and measure 13/16" from the center of the arrow to the window. Search the general threads for any of Nuts & Bolts tuning threads. He does a great job of explaining initial setup of rest and nock point. I would not shoot that bow the way it is currently setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A little update.

I had some time to tinker tonight after the kids went to bed. I flung a few arrows to look at a few things.

First thing I noticed was that my modules were hitting my cable as the draw stop instead of the pegs. Ideally you want the pegs to hit. That tells me that the cam is leaning that far over, probably 1/8” of an inch.

I then laid an arrow along my cam to check where the arrow intersects and it cross the string at my peep.

Making a trip to the shop on Saturday. I’m even more confinced a top har adjustment is needed.
 

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A little update.

I had some time to tinker tonight after the kids went to bed. I flung a few arrows to look at a few things.

First thing I noticed was that my modules were hitting my cable as the draw stop instead of the pegs. Ideally you want the pegs to hit. That tells me that the cam is leaning that far over, probably 1/8” of an inch.

I then laid an arrow along my cam to check where the arrow intersects and it cross the string at my peep.

Making a trip to the shop on Saturday. I’m even more confinced a top har adjustment is needed.
Aren't the draw stop pegs built into the mods? Which way is the peg missing the cable? Is it missing on the outside or some how getting between the cam and the module to miss on the inside?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes the pegs are built into mod, but the peg is not hitting the cable, the mod is. If that makes sense. I guess what i'm trying to say is that, though it is hitting, it is not hitting in the right place. Isn't the cable supposed the hit the peg?
 

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Yes the pegs are built into mod, but the peg is not hitting the cable, the mod is. If that makes sense. I guess what i'm trying to say is that, though it is hitting, it is not hitting in the right place. Isn't the cable supposed the hit the peg?
Yes but which way is it missing? Is it leaning too far right or left?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It is leaning to the right so the cam looks like this =/= in between the limbs. Obviously not that pronounced.
 

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It is leaning to the right so the cam looks like this =/= in between the limbs. Obviously not that pronounced.
So at full draw, the cam is leaning too far to the right and the cable is missing the stop to the left. To fix that, you'd need to move the cam to the left which will fix the lean and the nock left tear. Win win.
 
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