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Choosing Hunting Arrow

6.9K views 79 replies 35 participants last post by  KilleenHunting  
#1 ·
To start off let me say I've already read a ton of posts with a ton of different answers and all it has done is confuse me more. So I come here as I don't have any experience or know any experienced archery hunters, and my "local" archery shop isn't very local. I'd like to get my hunting arrows as soon as possible so I can practice with my specific hunting set up as much as possible, but I have no clue what arrows and/or arrow size to get. I will be hunting elk primarily along with deer. Any and all advice/help would be very much appreciated, thank you!

I have a Prime Revex 2 set at 62# but will hopefully be to 70# by next September. 28.5" draw length.
 
#2 ·
Here we go, get the beer & munches!
I would go with Easton carbon 340's with brass 50 grain inserts & 140 grain points.
 
#3 ·
Well, I mostly use Gold Tip (GT) Hunter XT's for hunting, so my recommendation will be that. They are a "standard" diameter arrow, .246" ID.
I assumed 70 lbs rather than the 62# you're at now, and a carbon to carbon arrow length of 27" to 28".

The GT spine chart put you solidly in a 300 spine with a 28" carbon to carbon arrow with a 50 grain insert and 100 grain tip.

Gold Tip Hunter XT arrows cut to 28" carbon to carbon, with 2" Rapt-X vanes, 50 grain inserts (you have to order these separately), 100 grain broadhead, and standard GT nocks will put you around a finished arrow weight of 450 grains. They will be around 13.5% FOC and do around 275 fps out of your setup.
 
#8 ·
Thanks so much, this was the exact kind of reply I was hoping to get. Will being around that 275 fps be alright? I know it maybe doesn't matter as much as what some people make it out to be but being newer to this and all you hear is fps, fps, and fps it's hard not to second guess lol. Thanks again
 
#4 ·
This topic comes up quite a bit and you are going to get a lot of different recommendations. Personally, I have been using Easton FMJ’s for the past nine years with both my compound and traditional bows. Why, because I like the way they have performed and have had great success with them. Have taken a wide variety of game with them, from whitetails, mule deer, bear, antelope here in the U.S./North America to Greenland muskox and South African plains game. Good luck with your decision.
 
#6 ·
OMG. You will get even more confused on this post. I apologize in advance. Same draw length as you. Shoot 65#. Spine is the 340/350.

As of arrows. First shot the Easton Epics, then Easton Injexions, Easton Axis 5mm.
Now I just ordered the VAP TKO. I have a huge obsession with micro shafts. (Insert pun here).

I would recommend the 5mm Easton Axis. Not full size 6.5 arrows and not the 4mm. A happy medium. Plus they don't break the bank. Just get fixed broad-heads. QAD Exodus is really good. The G5 has glowing reviews.
 
#7 ·
I have the same draw length as you and shoot 64-70 pounds with 300 spine arrows. Black Eagle Rampage are a great small diameter arrow that aren't overly expensive. I have been shooting them for quite a few years and like them a lot. You could go with the factory outsert or HIT inserts and a collar. Add a 100 to 125 grain cut on contact fixed blade broadhead up front and you should be good to go.
 
#11 ·
Get yourself some Easton Axis or Victory RIP TKO's. 50-100 grain inserts, depending on how heavy you want your TAW, and a good 100-125 grain head will fly great and kill anything you need it to. Plus those two arrows come in different straightness levels so you can go really expensive for the top end, or something more budget friendly. I think both are fairly popular and could be found at most local shops for when you need replacements, and they are both great all around hunting arrows.
 
#12 ·
A 450 grain arrow going 275 fps will make short work of any animal in North America. It will give you great momentum, penetration, and trajectory out to as far as a person should shoot. The GT XT Hunter is a fantastic arrow and will serve you well. I agree that a 300 spine is what you want if you think you are going to be shooting higher poundage in the future.
Well, I mostly use Gold Tip (GT) Hunter XT's for hunting, so my recommendation will be that. They are a "standard" diameter arrow, .246" ID.
I assumed 70 lbs rather than the 62# you're at now, and a carbon to carbon arrow length of 27" to 28".

The GT spine chart put you solidly in a 300 spine with a 28" carbon to carbon arrow with a 50 grain insert and 100 grain tip.

Gold Tip Hunter XT arrows cut to 28" carbon to carbon, with 2" Rapt-X vanes, 50 grain inserts (you have to order these separately), 100 grain broadhead, and standard GT nocks will put you around a finished arrow weight of 450 grains. They will be around 13.5% FOC and do around 275 fps out of your setup.

I can second that, I shoot GT hunters (and Blackout X5 Envy or X3 Hunters--same exact shaft, but without the name brand so they are cheaper, can definitely recommend them!), 340 spine. I use the screw in 50 grain Fact weight and 100 grain heads, with 25 grain lighted nocks which makes it just a hair over 450 grains total. I am shooting 65lb, slower Diamond Edge 320 bow, and only a 27" draw length and they go right through whitetail no problem as long as I do my part. With your draw length and bow I would definitely recommend 300 spine based on Gold Tip's spine calculator and the experience my buddy with a longer draw had going up to a 300 spine.

The nice thing about the Fact weights compared to a heavier insert is that I can get anywhere from 100-175 grain point weight (plus 12 from the insert) using 50 grain weights and 100 or 125 grain field points, you can screw them in and out from the nock end if you get/make a long wrench. I would experiment with the field points before buying broadheads to see which one gives you the best arrow flight and trajectory. I found for me 150 grains point weight is dead quite, a little slower with more FOC tunes nicely, and still an acceptable trajectory. I shoot Slick Trick SS3.
 
#14 ·
That's because arrows are like cars or beer or anything else....people get sucked into the hype, advertisements, branding and bragging rights...........lol

The facts are if the spine is right, the GPI is what you desire and they are tough enough for your liking then the rest is just stuff for us to argue about.

You do have to know enough about them to know what you want or trust a seller that understands that and can help you decide what you want........and that might be different than what I want but the rest is not NEAR as important as people like to think. Especially for us hunters.
 
#16 ·
Yep, the Ford vs Chevy, Pepsi vs Coke, Scotty vs Cannon is tremendously expanded in the world of arrows and we have gotten very nit picky with little details that we are sure are a must, however pretty much all the arrows on the market are plenty good to shoot better than most archers and kill an elk. For your setup, with the idea of going to 70#, a .300 spine is probably a solid choice, 100 or 125 grain heads are probably adequate and depend mostly on which one gets a more ideal FOC% and TAW. I have shot elk with a heavy arrow from an old wheel bow that were probably traveling about 180 FPS and I have shot elk with a 280ish grain arrow going 380 fps and a couple setups in-between, none were any deader than the other. Primarily with elk, my most important thought process goes into selecting the type of broadhead. I am looking for a Fixed blade, Cut on Contact head in either 2 or 4 blade and make sure that said head is RAZOR sharp as it leaves the bow. It seems like every broadhead manufacurer says that their heads "fly like field points" and I have not tried any that did not IF they spin tested well and my bow was tuned properly.
 
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#20 ·
I tend to run heavy on spine if I have availability of the shafts I’m looking at purchasing. I personally prefer a 5mm shaft (ie black eagle rampages, easton axis, victory rip). I shoot 27.5” draw length with 70+ pounds of draw weight. I fit within the 340/350 on most spine charts but I lean towards 300s if available because it’s easier to tune a stiffer arrow than a weaker arrow. While I can pretty well tune either the 300 is a bit more forgiving. I run weight up front as well. Between 50-70gr ( currently running 60gr insert weight) with 100 gr points. I would run 125 gr but I literally have a tote full of 100gr broadheads so I’m going to stick with 100gr. All in all it’s personal preference. I’m personally building standard victory RIP elites right now.
 
#22 ·
29.5" Grizzly stick 320 TDT 320 with a 200 grain Samurai would be my choice. 125 grain Samurai would be a distant 2nd choice.

 
#23 ·
Someone on here recently said that if you treat arrows as consumable items you’ll have a better time with archery. While I don’t think it’s great to just waste arrows I tend to agree. Start with something simple and easy to get and cheap (gold tips) and order 6 of them in the spine you think you need. Shoot them a bunch and then as you tune and go further into your archery journey you’ll tweak something here and change something there and sooner or later you’ll have your ideal arrow for that bow. It’s a process, you may or may not get it right on the first try.
 
#55 ·
True that, I'd definitely go with an reliable economical option to start, like the standard diameter 300 spine Gold Tips (or Blackout Hunter X3, same shafts different logo). The components will be cheaper and easier to find. If you have cash to burn you can get a fancy micro diameter arrow once you figure out what arrow weight, broadheads, FOC, etc. tunes out of your bow and gives you a good trajectory. Don't worry, you'll break or lose most of those 6 arrows in a season between lots of practice, broadhead tuning, and shooting deer.

I have used these nocks with great success from Amazon, I am on a budget and just can't imagine using a nocturnal for practice and risking busting it with another arrow...which to me just doesn't work, I test every nock multiple times while practicing and tuning so that I can cull out any unreliable ones. These are a similar design but a lot cheaper, 25 grains in case you are wondering.

 
#26 ·
Don't rush to failure. Have a plan, even if it takes time. Don't worry about practicing a ton right now if it means you'll buy arrows that don't fit your needs--then you'll be in a greater rush later when you eventually buy the right arrow.

General purpose, budget recommendation, even if you go to 70#: Black Eagle Renegades, 27" carbon to carbon in a 340 with a good fixed blade.

Detailed explanation if you care:

Put about as much money into your broadheads as your carbon. That matters more, ultimately. Many guys have issues because they can't keep their Walmart broadheads sharp. Magnus is a great budget option, but I also highly recommend Kayuga. You'll wait longer for shipping but you should sight in your bow before you shoot broadheads anyways.

If you shoot far or in windy conditions, go .203 diameter. If you won't shoot beyond 30 just shoot what you can afford. If you're asking for help, stay away from the .166 arrows because they require a lot of extra work and money to be worth your time.

Victory arrows are good, components suck. Black Eagle arrows are good, usually the components are good enough. Gold Tip has some pretty controversial components and good arrows. Easton has tough arrows and good components.

Everyone has this ridiculous idea of spine. It's a modern compound, you can tune the bow pretty well as long as the spine is close. Spine doesn't need to be exact, and they don't sell in .010 increments. It's not magic, you just need to visualize what the arrow is doing and adjust as needed. If you want a really big broadhead, then go for a 300 spine instead.

Keep your carbon to carbon length below your draw length. If you can't keep your fingers out of the way, you're better off paying for archery lessons.

Three Blazers, or four Pro Max vanes, are great budget options that are more than capable of controlling fixed blades and are quite durable as well. Super Sabers are good as well, but your shop may not have them. 1.5-2° offset is the sweet spot for most properly tuned setups. Do more offset if your form is inconsistent, do less if arrows come off the string spinning in the same direction as the offset.

If you want it in a hurry (I discourage heavily) then don't mix and match good carbon with other components. I'm assuming you want budget, because otherwise you'd probably just buy multiple and pick your favorite.