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Chronograph ???

11062 Views 61 Replies 33 Participants Last post by  SoutherntierBowhuntr
I’m looking into getting a chronograph. I did a search and I come up with only a few Chronographs. Pro Chrono. F1 Shooting Chrono is a couple that keeps coming up.

Who makes a good accurate Chronograph? Also what chronograph are they using at the major shoots? IBO, NFAA, etc…
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How about this?
I use my laptop computer and a microphone.
The mic pics up the sound of the bow firing AND the impact of the arrow, 18M (20 yds) away.
I use audio recording software (Audacity) than can spectrum analyze the sound and has markers that i place on the fire and impact events and measure extremely accurately the time the arrow took to go the distance (down to nanoseconds).
It's a simple v=d/t calculation to come up with the arrow's AVERAGE velocity.

This will be somewhat less than peak velocity as measured by a chrono, but in testing i've seen that it is actually within 1 fps of chrono readings, since indoors and 20 yards doesn't slow the arrow down much.

And it could be argued that the average velocity is more useful for K.E. purposes and how well your arrow delivery system maintains it's energy down range. Sort of like comparing BHP at the crank of an engine, to rear-wheel hp.

Works really well and is as portable as my laptop.

Yes. I am a total geek.

:wink:

Holy Crap!! My head is starting to hurt.:eek:
easton has a nice chrono
The one Easton has on their Web site is made by Pact
Chronographs

I have sold two Archery Chronos by Shooting Chrony right here in the AT classifieds since this thread started yesterday. If you need one give me a shout.
we use the beta at work, no problems!
That is the one I am leaning towards.

How big is the window on the Beta?
I have sold two Archery Chronos by Shooting Chrony right here in the AT classifieds since this thread started yesterday. If you need one give me a shout.
I sent you a PM
Well I broke down and bought the Shooting Chrony Beta Master and a light kit and printer. I know probably didn’t need the printer for archery but I can use it for reloading.
i have a shooting chrony and it works very well. Ive shot it next to another shooting chrony, a prochrono and a gehler and they were all within 3fps of each other.
the shooting chrony's and the prochrono both use an infra red receiver to detect IR shadow as the projectile or arrow passes over. the particular IR they use has a diode which is centered around 850nm in the IR spectrum.
you can use a normal incandescant bulb directly over both sensors... but not just one bulb shining down over the two because the angle of light hitting the two sensors from one source will give you a fast reading.
the light sources must be directly over the two sensors.
that is the reason fluro lighting will not work. they do not emit enough IR.

instead of using standard incandesant bulbs, you can also you Leds. Red or orange will emit enough for the detectors to work. just standard 5mm Leds, you do not need ultra high output leds. both these color leds emit enough IR for the detectors to work.
Better still is to actually use IR leds. they are a fair bit more expensive then plain red or orange leds but they will have alot more output at the correct light range
I just used two strips of 3mm by 20mm aluminium about 45cm long and bent it to an eliptical shape to follow the shape of the plastic diffusers that come with chronographs and drilled 5mm holes to mount the leds in them.. space them about 12mm center to center. I had 21 per end of the crhono. three sets of 7 and you feed 9 volts into each seven leds in series so you get a voltage drop of around 1.3 volts per led.
you dont need a high current supply. just a 9volt 500mA plug pack will do it for both spans of leds.
it works really well and gives me the same reading i would get in the sunlight.
the most important thing is to make sure that all the leds are roughly pointing towards each sensor. standard leds usually have a difraction angle of around 20degrees so thats plenty of leeway. if you spread them at 12mm center to center on each span.. you should cover most of the aluminium bar from one chrono verticle rod to the other rod.
i dont have any pics to post it up but ill try to take some when i have time. its actually quite simple.
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the F1 chrony is great ....no problems here!
i have a shooting chrony and it works very well. Ive shot it next to another shooting chrony, a prochrono and a gehler and they were all within 3fps of each other.
the shooting chrony's and the prochrono both use an infra red receiver to detect IR shadow as the projectile or arrow passes over. the particular IR they use has a diode which is centered around 850nm in the IR spectrum.
you can use a normal incandescant bulb directly over both sensors... but not just one bulb shining down over the two because the angle of light hitting the two sensors from one source will give you a fast reading.
the light sources must be directly over the two sensors.
that is the reason fluro lighting will not work. they do not emit enough IR.

instead of using standard incandesant bulbs, you can also you Leds. Red or orange will emit enough for the detectors to work. just standard 5mm Leds, you do not need ultra high output leds. both these color leds emit enough IR for the detectors to work.
Better still is to actually use IR leds. they are a fair bit more expensive then plain red or orange leds but they will have alot more output at the correct light range
I just used two strips of 3mm by 20mm aluminium about 45cm long and bent it to an eliptical shape to follow the shape of the plastic diffusers that come with chronographs and drilled 5mm holes to mount the leds in them.. space them about 12mm center to center. I had 21 per end of the crhono. three sets of 7 and you feed 9 volts into each seven leds in series so you get a voltage drop of around 1.3 volts per led.
you dont need a high current supply. just a 9volt 500mA plug pack will do it for both spans of leds.
it works really well and gives me the same reading i would get in the sunlight.
the most important thing is to make sure that all the leds are roughly pointing towards each sensor. standard leds usually have a difraction angle of around 20degrees so thats plenty of leeway. if you spread them at 12mm center to center on each span.. you should cover most of the aluminium bar from one chrono verticle rod to the other rod.
i dont have any pics to post it up but ill try to take some when i have time. its actually quite simple.
That sounds like it would be a sweet set up. When you take some pics, psot them up please so I can get an idea. Might want to try it.
2
Here are a couple of pics of my chrono led lights.

Attachments

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Most will need a light kit. You might get away if you have good lighting but you cannot use Florescent lights. They will throw off your readings.

I know PACT makes an IR system that does not need a light kit. You will pay about $60.00 more compared to the Chrony's or $25.00 more than the Pro Comp. models with light kits.
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4yggfgfbghgh gnggh gdgf dvfgfbbvbm. tuththuyipu`rfdg vfvcv
Now that right there is wisdom!
How about this?
I use my laptop computer and a microphone.
The mic pics up the sound of the bow firing AND the impact of the arrow, 18M (20 yds) away.
I use audio recording software (Audacity) than can spectrum analyze the sound and has markers that i place on the fire and impact events and measure extremely accurately the time the arrow took to go the distance (down to nanoseconds).
It's a simple v=d/t calculation to come up with the arrow's AVERAGE velocity.

This will be somewhat less than peak velocity as measured by a chrono, but in testing i've seen that it is actually within 1 fps of chrono readings, since indoors and 20 yards doesn't slow the arrow down much.

And it could be argued that the average velocity is more useful for K.E. purposes and how well your arrow delivery system maintains it's energy down range. Sort of like comparing BHP at the crank of an engine, to rear-wheel hp.

Works really well and is as portable as my laptop.

Yes. I am a total geek.

:wink:

Too cool!!
instead of using standard incandesant bulbs, you can also you Leds. Red or orange will emit enough for the detectors to work. just standard 5mm Leds, you do not need ultra high output leds. both these color leds emit enough IR for the detectors to work.
Better still is to actually use IR leds. they are a fair bit more expensive then plain red or orange leds but they will have alot more output at the correct light range
I just used two strips of 3mm by 20mm aluminium about 45cm long and bent it to an eliptical shape to follow the shape of the plastic diffusers that come with chronographs and drilled 5mm holes to mount the leds in them.. space them about 12mm center to center. I had 21 per end of the crhono. three sets of 7 and you feed 9 volts into each seven leds in series so you get a voltage drop of around 1.3 volts per led.
you dont need a high current supply. just a 9volt 500mA plug pack will do it for both spans of leds.
it works really well and gives me the same reading i would get in the sunlight.
the most important thing is to make sure that all the leds are roughly pointing towards each sensor. standard leds usually have a difraction angle of around 20degrees so thats plenty of leeway. if you spread them at 12mm center to center on each span.. you should cover most of the aluminium bar from one chrono verticle rod to the other rod.
i dont have any pics to post it up but ill try to take some when i have time. its actually quite simple.
Great idea!!!!

I just ordered some LEDs.
That sounds like it would be a sweet set up. When you take some pics, psot them up please so I can get an idea. Might want to try it.
4yggfgfbghgh gnggh gdgf dvfgfbbvbm. tuththuyipu`rfdg vfvcv


See I told you so :wink:

Just my opinion, but most will need a light kit so my thoughts for my next Chrono is that the PACT IR seems to fit the complete wish list.

PACT w/IR $169.00 + shipping (side note readout/computer separate for any accidental shoots)

Chrony with light kit $126.00 + shipping (all one unit folds up nicely, but if it is hit the whole unit is destroyed)

Pro Chrono with light kit $140.00 + shipping (light kit very cheap, annoying to have to tape up as the cardboard fails)
Here are a couple of pics of my chrono led lights.
So when are you going to start making them to sell?
See I told you so :wink:
See you told me what? :) That I need a light kit? I never doubted you about the light kit
I have a Pro Chrono.. works great.. the few times I need to clock an arrow, I just take it outdoors... I also shoot rifles and handload, so it works great for that too.. :thumb:

I'm likin the led kit.. me thinks I have a machine shop project to put on CAD tomorrow... :D :thumb:
That LED is AWESOME!

Any chance of getting a print of sorts for the layout of the metal. I'm not a metalhead so to speak, but I got a buddy at a machine shop and this is the kind of government work he lives for!...Maybe get it made out of some high end aluminum or titanium!!!!
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