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Our archery club uses that orange elastofoam material for our targets. The foam is stacked in a pretty stout box steele frame that allows us to torque down on the matt and make them pretty tight. Each target probably sees 150+ per night and we only allow screw-in bullet points, though I'm sure there are times when a few field points get by the range master from time to time. The problem we're running into is that these targets are starting to break down pretty fast now that we're seeing more users at the range. We used to replace the material twice a year, but we've seen such a huge increase in the number of shooters that we're looking at replacing them probably 4 or more times a year if this keeps up.

We've talked about something like the Rinehart Brick Wall, but those are awful expensive and we're just a small non-profit archery club that is funding this stuff. We might be able to get some funding from some grant sources, but we don't know if we'll be able to get that same funding in the future.

Are any of you working with the local indoor range on their targets? If so, what are you using for target material and how much life do you get out of them?

Thanks much
 

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A lot of the clubs around my area use something called Hush board. I've been at my archery club about 8 months and I haven't noticed any targets that were changed out with new hush board yet. My arrows pull out pretty easy but sometimes there is some of the hush board stuck to the arrow. It's not a big deal I just run some scotch bright over it and it's gone. Not sure where they get it from. Next time i'm at the club I'll ask some questions about where they get it, cost, and how often they change it. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ttt
 

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Ttt
 

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To me you should consider making a t-shirt stuffed back stop that you put right up behind your current target that you are using, I do this at home on my glen del full rut buck because it doesn't stop arrows after a few shots but lasts for a long time. I stuff t-shirts into a bag from the feed store and find a way to hold it right behind the glen del buck and I love it. The glen del insert keeps my arrows straight and once it is broke in it is easy to pull the arrow and the t shirts stop the arrow with no penetration so pulling the arrows is super easy.

I think you could do this on a big scale behind your current targets and probably learn to love the shot up targets more than the fresh ones.
 

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A range that I used to shoot at used the same concept that you currently do except they used cardboard . They had a 2x6 on top with all thread on the outer edges. If they started getting weak spots they'd compress the cardboard a little .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ttt
 

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We've been very impressed with the Spyderweb bales. These get thousands of shots each season and have held up well. The face boards are much cheaper and juset bolt them onto the existing ones and they hold the arrows even better. Pull arrows with 2 fingers. Check out some photos at www.minnehaha-archers.com

They are spendy. You may want to look into applying for a Pittman-Roberts Grant to offset 75% of the cost. It is a lot of work to get it done, but well worth it.
 

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up here we use tentest insulation sheet for both outdoor and indoor targets butts.
cut it up at 8" wide sheets and stack then clamp- works great-lasts a while and inexpensive
good luck
 

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Go to DYI forum here and look up some ideas for building back stops there are some great ideas
 

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The good news is your attendance is up, thats better than most clubs can say. A couple of options, be sure to move your target faces around so you're not pounding arrows into the same spot. The rag targets are also a good option as they can be restuffed with the same materials many times over and last a very long time. As mentioned, look in the DIY forum for build ideas.
 

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Sorry, it's Pittman-Robertson Fund.
 

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We use sheets of asphalt impregnated fiber board. They come in sheets 4' x 8' x 1/2".

For indoor butts, we cut them into 4' x 4' sheets & stack them on pallets so we can move them with a pallet jack. They last 3 to 4 years before we have to turn them. After we've shot out the front and back face, we just pull the layers that need it. Usually less than 20 or 30 layers every 6 to 8 years.

Outdoors we cut the fiberboard into 48" x 16" pieces and stack them up to about 4'. We put roofs over these and they last several years before we re-stack.

We have a very active club and both the indoor and outdoor butts are heavily used.

Allen
 
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