Check to see if there is a locking bolt on the side. If so, that needs to be loosened first.
I know Elites have a side locking bolt, not sure what other bows do

 

Check to see if there is a locking bolt on the side. If so, that needs to be loosened first.
I know Elites have a side locking bolt, not sure what other bows do

I should have said, there are no locking bolts

 

Have you tried adding extra leverage to the allen wrench? Use to MFG. Compounds & have wrench the is about 8" long to make it easier. If that don't work take it to a bow shop & have them press it & remove the cables & take the pressure off the limbs & see if that helps.

 

Have you tried adding extra leverage to the allen wrench? Use to MFG. Compounds & have wrench the is about 8" long to make it easier. If that don't work take it to a bow shop & have them press it & remove the cables & take the pressure off the limbs & see if that helps.
[/QUOI

Ill try adding some extra leverage thanks

 

How old is the bow? Might need a tear down, clean, and re-grease. Grease can dry out and harden with age and make limb bolts really hard to turn

 

Are the bolts already bottomed out?
Are they stuck both ways?
Maybe someone put lock tite on the bolts I dunno ..

Post a pic of your situation

 

Some more info on the bow would be helpful. What bow, what year, etc.

Brand new PSEs can be very tight. We've had some new Bear bows that had very tight limb bolts as well. Same with some Darton bows.

 

you could try pressing the bow and removing the string to relax the limbs, then shoot a little penetrating oil into the threads. Let that soak and try the following day.

Do make sure you use the correct sized wrench, if you booger the bolt up you will be drilling it out.

 

If it's a PSE or Bowtech you can't press it without taking turns out of the limbs.

 

To clarify it is new and unused

 

Again, what bow is it?

 

Break it down, remove the bolt, grease and reassemble. It will move easily without the tension.

 

My thoughts as well…many pocket designs still use a tapped hole directly into the riser and when they try to use that in conjunction with a big ole draw weight adjustment range, there is significant binding because of the length of thread engagement; especially when the bolts are not on bottom. The change in angle binds them, but when the pressure is off they turn easy. New and better designs have a limb bolt threaded into a barrel nut that can pivot as the bolt is backed out and the angle changes.

 

I love bowing up on the tight limb bolt and when it finally breaks loose with a loud “POP”!

 

Don't forget the occasional sparks as well! You don't want them walking out so they are tight and under load.

 

All the new bows I've bought came from the factory with the bolts fully screwed in/seated. On some, they've been "stuck" and required an unusual amount of torque to break them loose. I've always succeeded in doing this with a properly fitting, non-worn allen wrench though.

If it looks like it won't budge without boogering the hex head, or breaking the tool, etc., I'd say Catfish has the right answer. Go ahead and break it fully down and try again with the bolts completely free.

It'd be sad if a new bow came from the factory with the bolts totally unmovable without stripping and/or breaking the tool, but I guess anything is possible...

lee.

 

Like I said back on thread #4 if all else has failed take bow apart & then remove the bolt!
Been working on compounds since 1972 & have yet to find one that I couldn't remove.

 

I thought the newer bowtechs all had locking screws

 

Try squirting a little Kroil on them. That stuff has loosened up some things that I thought had no chance of moving.