As the title says, title with the least maintenance or maintenance that i can do myself (without a bow press). Is there any particular brand or cam/limb system that fits this description?
Compound with the least maintenance
Roof_Korean
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As the title says, title with the least maintenance or maintenance that i can do myself (without a bow press). Is there any particular brand or cam/limb system that fits this description?
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APA bows do not need a bow press. They are solid, fast (not always the quietest though) and have flown under the radar for years.
https://www.apaarchery.com/about/apa-technology
https://www.apaarchery.com/about/apa-technology
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If you mean a bow that doesn't require a bow press to work on? The closest to such a thing is APA archery bows. They have the ability to put a pin through the cam to lock it in place to work on the bow.
https://www.apaarchery.com/
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https://www.apaarchery.com/
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Great minds must think alike! [emoji23][emoji1787][emoji23] Posted at the same time.
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Alpine, if still about. Pin through axle for a tear down...Don't think any will allow a complete tear down, removal of limbs.
After you get a peep installed (which always requires a press) if you plan on using a peep that is, look for any bow that has adjustable draw length cams, not modules to change draw length.
Depending if you are going to hunt. 3d, or win nationals will depend on how much adjusting your bow may need.
My experience is once you get it tuned once, after I have the bow for 3 years or so, I get a new string for it. I shoot weekly and hunt with mine.
Others, when I go to the range, they start tweaking adjustments as soon as it comes out of the case, not thinking it might be them changing and not the bow
Depending if you are going to hunt. 3d, or win nationals will depend on how much adjusting your bow may need.
My experience is once you get it tuned once, after I have the bow for 3 years or so, I get a new string for it. I shoot weekly and hunt with mine.
Others, when I go to the range, they start tweaking adjustments as soon as it comes out of the case, not thinking it might be them changing and not the bow
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Oneida is the easiest bow to work on. No press required to do a complete tear down, or you can change the string in a doorway, between 2 trees, make a "press" from a 2x4 for $5. They have the easiest dra cycle and accordingly a IBO of @ 310 fps. They are a little on the loud side unless you shoot a heavy arrow.
Have to say i can do everything on my Oneida with a set of allens and a flat head screw driver, always been easy to get back in tune and very accurate. Love the simplicity of my binary cam as there are no harnesses or intricate steps to change or adjust cables ( still need to press bow but string/cable changes and adjustments are simple.) The Oneida is a Black Eagle II ( sweet shooter proven over the years , think heavy arrows and this system shoots great) and my binary cammed bow is an Elite Ritual ( 3d or hunting this bow is a winner IMHO). My 2 cents!
I have no experience with any of the bows that don’t require a press, but I think some APAs and older bowtechs could do some things without it.
On an aside. . . If you’re buying a bow based off the lack of tools needed to work on it, you’re probably not going to get the best bow for you.
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On an aside. . . If you’re buying a bow based off the lack of tools needed to work on it, you’re probably not going to get the best bow for you.
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If you can find an older wheel bow that would probably be the easiest one to work on.
The primary items to look for are the fewest possible moving parts on the bow, such as:
- wheels/cams that ride on plastic bushings instead of ball bearings.
- non adjustable cable guards with plastic slides.
- solid, 1 piece limbs.
- simple cabling systems like dual yokes, or simple binary cam cabling.
- a gold star if you can find a solid-limb bow with the fittings in the crotches of the limbs that allow pressing the bow with a cable (no press needed to do routine maintenance).
Explanation: plastic bushings riding on steel axles far far outwear and outlast ball bearings or any other metal-to-metal mating/moving surfaces and will probably never need replaced for the rest of your life. Also, non-adjustable cable guards and plastic slides have far fewer parts and moving surfaces to break, strip, come loose, etc., and 1 piece solid limbs are dramatically simpler and easier to deal with. Cam lean isn't an issue and the limb pockets are much simpler, thinner, lighter and more maintenance free. I also mentioned that some, like the old Hoyt Pro Vantage and others had the fittings in the limbs that make a press unnecessary for basic maintenance tasks like tuning and even changing strings/cables.
again, that points to an older bow from The Good Old Days, preferably with round wheels. Or a modern equivalent like the Hoyt Tribute which I have. One of the Elite solid limb bows like the Victory, etc., would be a more modern candidate.
Yes the compromise is you're not shooting a 500fps rocket that tears all your rotator cuffs off. And it'll be a nightmare to tune if you shoot it with a release aid if it's an old wheel bow designed for fingers. But the easy-to-deal-with advantages are huge, and you can eventually figure out how to get a decent tune out of it once you learn how to tiller it and adjust the cam timing etc....
That's my suggestion. To go more modern, especially something with split limbs or much worse adjustable cable guards with rollers or really exotic cam systems like the modern Mathews or the new Hoyt arrangements, you're looking at quite a bit more tooling needed at home to keep it up....
lee.
The primary items to look for are the fewest possible moving parts on the bow, such as:
- wheels/cams that ride on plastic bushings instead of ball bearings.
- non adjustable cable guards with plastic slides.
- solid, 1 piece limbs.
- simple cabling systems like dual yokes, or simple binary cam cabling.
- a gold star if you can find a solid-limb bow with the fittings in the crotches of the limbs that allow pressing the bow with a cable (no press needed to do routine maintenance).
Explanation: plastic bushings riding on steel axles far far outwear and outlast ball bearings or any other metal-to-metal mating/moving surfaces and will probably never need replaced for the rest of your life. Also, non-adjustable cable guards and plastic slides have far fewer parts and moving surfaces to break, strip, come loose, etc., and 1 piece solid limbs are dramatically simpler and easier to deal with. Cam lean isn't an issue and the limb pockets are much simpler, thinner, lighter and more maintenance free. I also mentioned that some, like the old Hoyt Pro Vantage and others had the fittings in the limbs that make a press unnecessary for basic maintenance tasks like tuning and even changing strings/cables.
again, that points to an older bow from The Good Old Days, preferably with round wheels. Or a modern equivalent like the Hoyt Tribute which I have. One of the Elite solid limb bows like the Victory, etc., would be a more modern candidate.
Yes the compromise is you're not shooting a 500fps rocket that tears all your rotator cuffs off. And it'll be a nightmare to tune if you shoot it with a release aid if it's an old wheel bow designed for fingers. But the easy-to-deal-with advantages are huge, and you can eventually figure out how to get a decent tune out of it once you learn how to tiller it and adjust the cam timing etc....
That's my suggestion. To go more modern, especially something with split limbs or much worse adjustable cable guards with rollers or really exotic cam systems like the modern Mathews or the new Hoyt arrangements, you're looking at quite a bit more tooling needed at home to keep it up....
lee.
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