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Back Yard Champion
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Oh, and I did add a paracord loop per @nuts&bolts suggestion. In the past I'd always had one of those big braided slings on my bow and honestly felt like it just got in the way as much as anything. I'm still not 100% on the loop, but I can deal with it better than the big slings.
Some get the wrong idea about a wrist sling. It's just there to catch the bow if you happen to drop your bow. The sling should be loose enough to slip in and out of like isn't there.
 

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Back Yard Champion
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If there I didn't catch it. You did bare shaft tune?
 

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I'd probably agree with Padgett for adjusting your sight. Move it so you're missing to the right and then tweak the sight so the main group is center to the X ring. Ignore the fliers.
I really don't care for the Vegas for sighting or even shooting. It's damned animal wanting to bite me.........
 

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Forgot. Your Little Goose. Starting out I used the Scott Mongoose. Used it for everything, hunting, 3D, Indoor, Outdoor and Field and I did good, real good. I later switched to thumb release and I was no better, but got hooked on them. Still use my Mongoose for hunting.
 

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How your release hand should look. The back of the hand almost flat to the top of the forearm.

The more I look at your picture and.........Well, you need overhauled - bow arm and release arm.


Dudley w index.jpg
 

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I'm no pro by a long shot but it looks to me like you could increase your draw length a little. A little bend in the bow arm works for me too but you look a tad contracted. Release hand looks dropped down instead of flat and front shoulder not fully relaxed. After you extend to draw you bring the bow back to anchor and lean forward a touch. I believe to much of bow arm bend will cause inconsistent results. What draw length you shooting?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm no pro by a long shot but it looks to me like you could increase your draw length a little. A little bend in the bow arm works for me too but you look a tad contracted. Release hand looks dropped down instead of flat and front shoulder not fully relaxed. After you extend to draw you bring the bow back to anchor and lean forward a touch. I believe to much of bow arm bend will cause inconsistent results. What draw length you shooting?
29.5” on a Vertix so really more like 30” according to most
 

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29.5” on a Vertix so really more like 30” according to most
I'm not all that sure. nuts&bolts would be the one I'd trust. He can take you apart and put you back together.

6' 1" tall. IF you have a 73" wing span 29" draw length will pretty much be it.
73 / 2.5 = 29.2"
73 - 15 = 58 / 2 = 29.0"
Figure a d-loop 5/8" long and the bow would be under 29.0" - really possibility..........
 

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The formula is +- 1” normally. Your very close though.

what I see is your draw arm dragging back to far pulling your bow arm into a crunch. And possibly a good bit of right torque. I’ll add the possibility of a low peep. Also bend at the waist to aim down. And try shoulder hip and foot | vertical.

confused, great just relax it’s a compound not a recurvei if you want you can walk around at full draw do a jig ect. You just have to get back into stance and line up. (You can with a recurve just harder to hold onto )

Us big guys have a fairly soft jiggly thumb pad which tends to create a circular miss pattern. I normally grab the bow from the side and slide the thumb over to the left. Creating a more consistent pad.

head to spine is another one. I don’t know how many times some advice had me dropping my chin into my chest. Because my arm or whatever looked wrong. Or shorten the draw and touch string to nose by looking down. So get the string off your face. The ata is to short for us big people to do either corner of mouth or nose. Peep height and release anchor are enough anchor anyway.

back wall pressure just go easy until the pull through

and occasionally just have fun I’ll make patterns sometime or move in real close and do a connect the dots
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Ok guys, I've tried to apply all the comments above. I do still see some head tilt. Bow hand and release hand look better I think. Bring it on!

 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
And on the windage issue: I fired 10 arrows at 40 to get a general dispersion. I determined there was a high and left trend, so I made the appropriate adjustment. These are the 2 arrows that followed:



Then backed up to 60 to confirm. Had to mess with the elevation a bit, but got here:



Then eyeballed an adjustment to my 50yd pin based on where I landed at 60 and fired these two at 50 to confirm:

 

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(aka lug nut)
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Can you fire 3 arrows (fletched) and two bareshafts (arrows with vanes completely stripped off), all five arrows at your bag target at only 20 yards? IF you are going to robin hood the arrows, then, can you fire one fletched arrow three separate times, and label each hole as "fletched", and then, take one bareshaft and fire it twice at the same target, and label the holes as (Bareshaft). Want to see how the hole pattern develops.

Want to compare your full draw new posture, with your 20 yd results for bareshaft hole location versus fletched arrow hole location.
7280469
 

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Can you fire 3 arrows (fletched) and two bareshafts (arrows with vanes completely stripped off), all five arrows at your bag target at only 20 yards? IF you are going to robin hood the arrows, then, can you fire one fletched arrow three separate times, and label each hole as "fletched", and then, take one bareshaft and fire it twice at the same target, and label the holes as (Bareshaft). Want to see how the hole pattern develops.

Want to compare your full draw new posture, with your 20 yd results for bareshaft hole location versus fletched arrow hole location.
View attachment 7280469
An on the windage issue: I fired 10 arrows at 40 to get a general dispersion. I determined there was a high and left trend, so I made the appropriate adjustment. These are the 2 arrows that followed:



Then backed up to 60 to confirm. Had to mess with the elevation a bit, but got here:



Then eyeballed an adjustment to my 50yd pin based on where I landed at 60 and fired these two at 50 to confirm:

I’m probably a bit behind you in my compound experience, but looks like you’re doing a lot right! if there’s one thing I can say for certain - this shît is fun, ain’t it? Even the small tweaks and improvements we make (to ourselves and equipment) are awesome/fun things!

I’m looking forward to shooting past 20 yards. Been doing all my training/practice in a limited space backyard - good practice, and fun stuff either way!

Best to you, and the hunting season, brotha! Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Can you fire 3 arrows (fletched) and two bareshafts (arrows with vanes completely stripped off), all five arrows at your bag target at only 20 yards? IF you are going to robin hood the arrows, then, can you fire one fletched arrow three separate times, and label each hole as "fletched", and then, take one bareshaft and fire it twice at the same target, and label the holes as (Bareshaft). Want to see how the hole pattern develops.

Want to compare your full draw new posture, with your 20 yd results for bareshaft hole location versus fletched arrow hole location.
View attachment 7280469
Ok, here goes: I only have 2 practice arrows, the other 4 of my half dozen are in my quiver with broad heads on them. I try not to mess with them once season is open. So I stripped fletching off one of my 2 practice arrows and shot the following noting the Fletched shots in numerical order with "F1, F2, etc" and the Bareshaft shots with "B1" etc:



Then I fired one more of each and took a pic:



 

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(aka lug nut)
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So, the bareshaft is a diagnostic tool....no vanes, means no steering correction. The bareshaft tells you the direction of push of the bowstring. So, the vanes provide steering correction. The horizontal and vertical distance between fletched hole and bareshaft holes, tells you how HARD the vanes have to work, to fix the arrow flight. Let's fix the vertical error first. Try to tweak the bow tuning so fletched and bareshaft hit at EXACTLY the same height above the ground. This bow tuning tweak to fix vertical, will tighten fletched groups at all distances.
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Bareshaft is flying nock low, point high. So, the easiest fix is to move your d-loop in the up direction. Leave arrow rest alone. Keep twisting the d-loop around the bowstring, and the d-loop will climb the bowstring, like a nut on a threaded rod. When you get the d-loop high enough, to compensate for your form, then this will happen.

7280511


You can put a horizontal strip of masking tape on your bag target, and the goal is to split the top edge of the masking tape, half the arrow hole above the top edge of the tape, half the arrow hole below the top edge of the tape...for fletched AND bareshaft. The higher you move the d-loop up the string (leave arrow rest alone), the more the bareshaft hole will impact lower and lower, ultimately the two holes (fletched and bareshaft exactly match for height).

After you fix vertical, then, we can fix the horizontal miss pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Ok, so I understand all that tuning change in theory, but here's my question: This is my 50yd broadhead check. All arrows fletched, 2 field points, 2 broad heads. Won't I mess this up if I start moving my rest and stuff?

 

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(aka lug nut)
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1) do NOT move your arrow rest.
2) 20 yards, ONLY move the d-loop in the UP direction.
3) if you can get fletched and bareshaft to do THIS at 20 yards..



then, 50 yards will be better.

So, if you are already at "Good enuff",
do nothing.
 
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