Full draw. The cable guard pulls everything towards the bow when you draw so it will not look straight at rest but be pulled straight at full draw.

 

What effect does it have if you set it up at rest versus at full draw, and vice versa ???

Either way there is going to be some lean, it will either be leaning at rest, or leaning at full draw, what makes one way better than the other ???

Woody

 

Either way there is going to be some lean, it will either be leaning at rest, or leaning at full draw, what makes one way better than the other ???

Woody

And there you have the truth about cam lean. Personally, as long as it is not exaggerated lean, I've never given much hoot about it, cuz like you say...it's going to be there anyway. I will however add or take out twists in my yoke to help with tuning, which effects the lean, but never been anal about eliminating all lean cuz I don't think that can be done on anything but a shoot-through bow.

 

Are you shooting a one or two cam?

 

This is on my daughters little dual cam older model Tiger.

All our bows are dual cam except my daughters other bow which is a single cam Leopard.

Woody

 

It seems like it would be better to have it straight at rest and leaning at full draw, that way when you release the string and it pushes the arrow forward everything would be coming back into line as the string comes forward ???

as opposed to having it straight at full draw and leaning at rest, otherwise everything is going out of line as the string comes forward ???



Woody

 

I've mostly only messed with one cams so I'm not as knowledgeable about twins. There's a real good write up on the spot hogg website that explains how to best set them.

 

Here is the link to that:

http://www.spot-hogg.com/newsletters/archived/newsletter_5.php

Their newsletters are great. A lot of good information. The stuff they make is very good also.

baldyhunter also has some good information on this in the first post in this thread:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1118006

It's about in the middle of the first post.

 

ttt

 

I always have best luck setting them even at full draw... tuning just seems easier when i do this, over setting them even at rest.

 

Cam lean affects nock travel in Single and Hybrid cam systems.

If you want the bow to tune easily - you need to set it up with zero cam lean just after it passes brace. At brace - it should have just a slight inward lean - barely noticeable.

This is less critical on long ATA bows though.

If you think about it - this is the only thing that makes sense. Lateral nock travel is induced because the bow string is moving from the right to the left as the bow unwinds itself. If you adjust the bow so that it is level at full draw - then it is way off at brace (it must be) - and that is when you are trying to release the arrow. Sideways travel of the nock during release of the arrow makes a bow very hard to tune. Pull a little harder into the wall - and you no longer have a bow that is level at full draw. What have you accomplished by setting it up this way?

A lot of people on here advocate doing it at full draw - which I have never understood.

I do know this - I asked Danny McCarthey how he sets his bows up - zero just past brace. Good enough for me as there are very few people who know more about bows than him.

 

Thanks.
Makes a lot of sense, I need to find out for myself.

 

http://www.spot-hogg.com/newsletters/archived/newsletter_5.php cam lean

 

this may be a stupid question, but how do you confirm that you may have cam lean? i have just eye-balled for the most part.......do you all just check the top or both cams?

 

Usually you just use an arrow and place it against the side of the cam, then see if it is parallel to the string or not, if not then you have cam lean.

Woody

 

I think that the best way to set cam lean is to set the center shot of the bow where the manufacturer says that it should be. Now get a bare shaft and tune the bow vertically and then when you move to the horizontal tune make your corrections by adjusting the idler wheel lean. Let the bow, the arrow, and you tell you how the idler cam should be adjusted.

I have just gone through this procedure with my bow and some triple x shafts being shot at 55 lbs and it worked great. The idler ended up with some lean in it but the bare shaft and the fletched shaft are hitting together at 20 yards. I had to shorten the side of the yoke on the sight side of the bow. When I check idler lean at brace with and arrow placed along the sight side of the idler the tip of the arrow points slightly toward the nock on the string of the bow.

Give this a try and see if it works for you.

 

Anyone else have any thoughts or theories as to which way they think is best and why ???

Woody

 

My Moab has a little lean at rest and a little lean a full draw. Seem to work, I've been shooting he heck out of it for over a year with zero problems and it paper tuned perfectly.