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Crimson talon cleaver going to work

6.5K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  DelraySwampViking  
#1 ·
Image


this is the exit side. This pig did a front flip and 2 barrel rolls and couldn’t stand back up. Devastating, and sharpened it right up without any damage.
 
#7 ·
He's afraid to go too heavy,,,,so he's on the 125. Frankly, i'm getting just as good results with the 125's as I am with the 150's. It's a hard decision actually. I'm thinking for pigs over a feeder, 150,and when shots are further out,the 125 ? I'm carrying both in my quiver.
 
#11 ·
Would you believe the whole lot of 150's that were in stock sold out ??? lol...Unreal. He's got more on the way. This is why he set up the "Pre-Order" option, to gauge the need. All of a sudden, people came out of the wood work and jumped on the 150's. once I posted a couple 150 kills. Now I just did a 70 yard 125 grain kill that was ridiculous on a solid 180 pound boar hog, i'm sure the 125 now will pick up a bit ? People see with their eyes, it's easier to believe.

There are many other plans coming in as well. When the option to Pre Order comes, take it. Get yours first. I'll post the test kills before the heads get released for everyone to make a decision on.
 
#17 ·
You are pretty much inline with what I am using. I'm 27.5 and 80 pounds, with a 300 spine FMJ i'm either 525 W/125 or 550 with a 150. On my carbon shafts, I'm 600+ with 100grain insert and I like 200 spine.

We are shooting the 125 out to 100 yards with decent accuracy. Dead on @ 70 yards,and this is because we as shooters are limited in skill.....lol I have no doubt if an arrow hits bulls @ 70,why doesn't it @ 100 ? Because of shooter skill. I'm not about to shoot a hog @ 100 yards anyway,but did kill one @ 70 last week with a 125 on a 300 FMJ.

Provided you place your shot right where it belongs, this is what you will see. Your entrance will not be a straight slit. Instead it will resemble a "S". This is because the single bevel being sharpened on 1 side,causes a rotation. The S is showing that rotation.

Your exit side will resemble a "O" much like a hollow point bullet. Again this is the rotation. Blood will pour out and Stevie Wonder will be able to trail your blood.

2 things. Always presharpen and pre strop the heads,even out of the box despite them being hair popping sharp. The sharper you can get them initially, the better your resharpening will be later on.

Secondly, make sure your heads are screwed on very very tight to your arrow. These head will be rotating nd you don't want them to loosen and lose your rotation. I cinch mine down for all I got !

Enjoy and post up your results.
 
#20 ·
125s have been as accurate as field points at every distance I shoot at. For sharpness I do 400/800/1200 and just am mindful to knock the butt off the backside lightly. I’m not a pro at sharpening but they pull hair off and that’s more than enough. I’ll be shooting these for awhile, I switched my sight tape over to the 125 head / 535 total at 14 FOC. I’m shooting 297 through the chrono with my EVL 34 PSE 80 lbs at 31” draw length
 
#30 ·
Conventional wisdom says to fletch your arrows to match the natural rotation of your bareshaft, and then get the correct bevel to match those 2. You dont want the broadhead fighting the fletching, or the fletching fighting the natural rotation produced by the direction your string is twisted. I dont think over rotation is an issue, youd lose more energy with the blades being dull than with the blades rotating 40 degrees through the target