Any foam filled target, one will have problems removing carbon arrows. Carbon
arrows generate heat, causing the foam in the target to bond to them. With care
if one taps the nock end of the arrow shaft with a mallet to drive the arrow in a bit
will help to break this bond. If using lighted nocks do not do this.

Shooting aluminum arrows is different as the aluminum disperses heat.

An Aro Jac tool will help to remove the arrows as it clamps onto the arrow shaft
and a lever works like a jack all to remove the arrow.

Some foam style targets when new, have taken any where from 125 to 185 pound
pull to remove the arrow. I did this with the target strapped down and used an over
head hoist with a gage in between.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

 

So maybe best not to use foam based targets with carbon bolts 🤷‍♂️

 

I tried several brands of bag targets where one can add extra packing and replace the covers.

Spyder Web No Speed Limit is a box frame style target that has stood up fairly well. For some that
do not do a lot of shooting, it would last a long time.

The one I am continually shooting is a Bull Dog, Dog House 450 XP Plus where I totally rebuilt the box
frame with double wall 3/4" plywood. I re-enforced the back under the cover with a few layers of low
jute back carpet. 4 ratchets straps evenly spaced with each end fastened to chest handles.

The target is 12" deep by 24" by 24". I only shoot one side. The target originally was a two finger
arrow removal. Shooting many thousands of shots target shooting and keep adding packing due
to it compressing, I now have the better part of 2 3/4 of these target packings in this target. It is
getting to the point I do not have to add much packing, but due to compression, it is much harder
to remove the arrows.

If one plans on purchasing a target, I would not go more than 14" deep due to arrow penetration
which shorter arrows can easily have the fletching damaged trying to remove them.

Viewing you tube videos, pay attention to what bow is used (usually a vertical), the distance the
shooter is from the target and how much arrow has not penetrated the target. Any new target,
one will not get the penetration until after several shots. This is where some of these targets get
bragged up at trade shows etc.
Most targets are over rated in regards to their stopping power unless set out 50 yards and beyond.
Some at that distance require a back up target especially with the newer, high speed crossbows.

Over time I have tested in excess of 30 targets. Some with only a couple of shots which I gave away
to vertical bow shooters. Some I rebuilt and some are basically garbage with very few shots.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

 

Look into spider web targets. Had one for many, many years. Arrows come out easy.

 

Yes I'm about to hit purchase button on a Spyderweb target

 

The target shown above should not be shot using field points. It is a broadhead target. They are fine to use carbon arrows in when using the correct head.

 

Can be used for both, from the manufacturer

I use this target extensively with my compound

Mega

A mid-size target is great for ladies with a light weight of only 20 pounds and a soft rope handle for easy carrying. Measurements: 20"W x 20"H x 14"DWeight: 20 lbs Self-healing, solid polyurethane handles up to 400 fps. Weather resistant. Years of durability. Field points or broad heads Easy...

broadforcetargets.com

 

search DIY rubber mulch broadhead target. i made one and it sure stops them and pulls with 2 fingers! cost 10$ to make too. lol

 

Some folks just have to learn the hard way. I prefer to listen to folks with experience.

 

🤷‍♂️

 

Much easier to remove a broad head from the foam targets. I shoot a havoc 440. For broadheads I only use foam targets. For field points I use a bag target. I’m using the bull dawg target now

 

WOW WOW WOW!!

Got the Spyder target in today.... it is really 2 fingers pull on field points!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the lessons everyone

 

I love my Spyderweb target. Not cheap but arrow removal is a snap.

 

For FP only, try McKenzie crossbow speed bag or sniper speedbag. Works great for high speed cbows (over 450 fps) and one handed removal. Inexpensive also.

 

Big shot or spider web xl mine have 1000's of shots in them keep them out of the weather I cover mine with a piece of rubber roofing

 

Use cardboard that you compress. My crossbow 150# only goes in a 1/3 deep. If it penetrate to easy tighten the nuts for more compression.

Make a DIY arrow puller and remember to twist clockwise while pulling back.

How do I make archery targets at home?

Zuku Mopheme's answer: Only your imagination limits you. Here’s one that cost me only 4 pieces of threaded rod and 2 wheels. 1 x 1 m big. If you don’t want to spend any money you can scrounge everything from someone from somewhere 2 pieces of scrap wood and 4 threaded rods 2 wheels and a stand ...

www.quora.com

 

Whatever you do don't buy this one.

Sure. It stops bolts just fine.

But when zeroing in close range the material must have nylon or polyester components as the heat bonded it to the carbon shaft.

 

When you have a shaft fused into a field point target do not grab the shaft and jerk it straight out of the target. Grab the shaft and twist it to the side which will break the weld and then pull it free without damaging the target. It is easy to do when using an arrow puller but takes more effort to do using bare hands to break the weld.

 

Did that. You'd be surprised how fused it was.
Took quite a bit to clean those bolts up too.
At 50 yards not much problem.
Its going back this week and I'll try a Spyderweb.
You would of thought a big name in targets would of gotten this right.
If you got a slower bow maybe it be ok.

 

If one lightly taps the arrow in a bit, this will break the bond when shooting foam targets.
Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

 

I shoot the same target and had trouble too . Put some clothes in front of it ( had a old target bag that it all fit in ) and now easy to pull .

 

Shot a Predator 18/3 going 415 and bolts literally welded into target . No amount of twisting and pulling would work ended up drilling along side to remove . Bolts came out covered in pieces of orange foam . Both destroyed one broke while twisting the other had a lateral crack .

 

And that is why a foam target does not make a good field point target and are all basically made for broadheads. Field points can be shot into them and removed fairly easily after they have been shot a lot with broadheads though as long as they stay away from un-shot areas.

 

For any crossbows over 450 fps, use a Delta McKenzie crossbow speedbag or sniper speedbag for field tips and the only block that I have found that will hold a broadhead (doesn't damage fletching) is a Rhino XL block and shoot into it the long ways.

 

I have that dastardly Kinetic X and have had zero issues. Most of the time, I’m shooting 10 yards in my basement. It has easily stopped even the KI Logix at 450/400 without fusing or any issue the guy on page 1 had. Very happy with it.

 

When shooting targets such as Rhino 18-1 or foam, grab a bar of irish spring soap and give your shaft a rub down, then pull with ease. Shooting a Stealth 450 no problems but keep moving every couple of shots. Use for broadhead testing mostly, but field points work fine also.

 

I like my big shot and it will handle high speed 500+ fps.