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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I understand that cutting the back end off an arrow is suppose to sttiffen the spine of the arrow. But how much would jump it an arrow size. Like if you cut 1/2" = one arrow size? We have never cut the back off an arrow before and have heard how some people do it all the time because they like the way it makes the arrow perform. It just makes me nervous buying arrows since they are so expensive and it seems I never quite get it right. Right now our ACE's are way to stiff and so I have some weaker x10's on the way. I can't afford another set of arrows so if these are too weak we will need to cut the back end to make them stiffer. Like I said, it makes me nervous cutting on $340 arrows.
 

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Genesis 21:20
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Cutting the back end of an X10 1/2" will stiffen it about 1/2 - 1 size in my experience. But without having both sizes to compare directly, it's hard for me to say.

I wouldn't just trim the back end as a matter of habit. The only time I do this is when I've trimmed the front to within 1/2" of my desired arrow length and the arrows are still acting very weak. Then, and only then, I start trimming from the back.

There are other ways to "stiffen" an arrow - or weaken it for that matter - too. Lots of ways besides trimming or not trimming the back end of a barelled shaft. Things like adding weight to the string (more strands, longer center serving, heavier nocking point, etc), reducing draw weight, switching from spin wings to vanes, or from Beiter nocks to pin nocks, will all make an arrow react stiffer. The opposite is true too, of course. And then you always have point weight to work with.

One other thing - if your arrows are too stiff - you can always use the front plunger hole instead of the rear one.

Lots of ways to skin the cat. With all these tricks, I can use a 380, 410 or a 430 shaft from the same bow - all depending on how I set up the bow and the arrows ;)

John.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stiff arrows

So if the arrows are too stiff, like the current ACEs we have, we could shoot a beiter nock rather then the ACE Pin nocks we currenly have and move the button to front hole and that could weaken the shaft enough to allow us to shoot it well? We have never shot anything but small groove G nocks and small groove pin nocks so I am not sure which beiter nocks to try.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sho...=1708&osCsid=755363ac75ccd57a74bc508af28e92f9

or

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/sho...=1560&osCsid=755363ac75ccd57a74bc508af28e92f9

Is the second one available in a small groove? I really don't get the sizing info in the catalog.
 

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Desert Island Trading Co.
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Genesis 21:20
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Switching to small groove (no. 1) Beiter Nocks and using the front plunger hole should make a noticeable difference.

On my setup, moving the plunger from the rear hole to the front is worth about 2# of draw weight, or about 1/2 shaft size (at the 410 X10 size).

Also, going from pin nocks and flex-fletch vanes to Beiter in-out nocks and spin wings is worth another 2-3# of draw weight.

So, I have been able to use the same exact shaft in a total variance of 5# of draw weight on my bows by going from a relatively heavy nock end and rear plunger hole to a light nock end an forward plunger hole. All this with approx. the same relative plunger spring tension.

Hope that helps.

John.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info

Thanks for the help. When the X10's arrive we hope they are the right spine without too many adjustments. But we may also be able to salvage the current ACEs we are shooting with these little changes as well. Thanks again.:)
 

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To offer a couple more suggestions on weakening arrows:

1. Increase the brace height.
2. Get another string with less strands, and use shortest possible serving. I went from 18 strand to 14 and short monofilament serving.
3. Keep your tab face fresh and smooth, replace if it's all roughed up.
4. If you're using fastflite, switch to 8125, it is a touch faster.

These will help a bit, my personal experience has been that doing all 4 of these steps is worth a pound or two, enough to make 1 size too-stiff arrows more along the lines of 1/2 size too stiff.

If you use John's suggestions of the long beiter insert nocks and spinwings vs. vanes, you should be in pretty good shape.
 
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