It depends on what your goal is. Light arrow, heavy arrow, foc. Most shops don't do it because it takes time. If you're talking cutting the arrow down in 1/4" increments, you will also need to bareshaft tune. Another time consuming proposition. It would be better for you to buy an arrow saw and do it yourself. That's what I did. But I'm OCD, so it's probably better that I do it myself, haha

 

With compounds you are basically tuning the bow to the arrow so no need to spend a ton of time to try to tune the arrow to the bow.. but you can do the same thing by cutting the arrow short as possible and play around with different weights

 

I just watched Podium Archer explain how bows and broadheads have changed and you don't really need to cut your arrows 1/2" past the riser when at full draw which is how it was typically done, but is now "old school". I'm not arguing that but he never really mentioned cutting the arrows down in increments to help tune the arrow to the bow. So most people that tune their bows and cut their arrows know that the shorter the arrow, the stiffer the spine. To adjust the arrow spine, without changing the arrow to a different spine arrow, you can either start with a longer arrow and cut it in increments to stiffen the spine or add or subtract point weight.

I gave that information because for the most part I never see compound bow techs ever tune the arrow to the bow by cutting the arrow in increments. I myself have done the exact same thing, draw the bow with full size arrow, mark with sharpie, then cut. However, I have completely changed this method when building arrows for traditional bows. I figure out what spine arrow should work with my point weight and shoot a bare shaft, long arrow. This gives you a knock left indicating weak spine and you cut in whatever increments you feel comfortable with until you are just about shooting bullet holes, adding the vanes as the last step should get you perfect.

So this was a long winded question of why don't we do this when cutting arrows for compounds? Or, are more people doing this and I just don't hear about it or is it not as critical with compounds? I can tell you with the traditional bows it is very important. There are numerous videos on the process, one of the better ones and more well known is from Black Widow Bows by Ken Beck. Anyway, just curious what some of you think? Does it just take too long for most shops to go through the trouble or is it deemed unnecessary for compound shooters? Thanks for the replies.

With compounds, I just pick the arrow specs I want and tune the bow to shoot it perfectly. All of my arrows are the same length--31". I have a 30.75" DL, so I guess I'm in your "old school" category.

I have big hands and long fingers though. I'm not worried about cutting myself with a broadhead during normal shooting with my normal form. However, I have no idea what my form is like when a bull elk comes into bow range, and I draw on him, but then have to let back down because he stepped behind a tree or other obstacle. I like to play it safe with blades and my fingers, especially when adrenaline is coursing through my blood.

 

I need all the help I can get! I typically start by choosing what type of arrow I want, heavy, light whatever… Then go by the arrow brand’s chart to find correct spine that is supposed to work. I like to start with a longer length arrow, but still optimum spine, so that I can cut it down later if it’s showing to be weak.
From most everything I’ve read, or heard… it’s not as critical on a compound, and most will just start with something on the stiff side anyway. This is what my local shop seems to do, unless you specifically ask for something else.
With myself, spine weakness/stiffness is directly proportional to shooting forgiveness.. I don’t have the best form, so if spine too weak, arrows group like damnit…, and same with spine too stiff..
Sorry for the long winded answer… But that’s been my experience.

 

I pick the spine according to what I shoot, cut it an inch longer than my draw and go. Never had a problem. IMHO don't over think things, it does nothing but cause doubts about everything. Then the mind gets in the way. AT has a habit of throwing way more into archery than needs to be.

 

This is a subjective question. Im a 28” draw and typically cut them 28.5 CTC. However some arrows I got second hand are a little longer or a little shorter.

 

Not necessary for compounds.

To time consuming and problematic.
Today we use carbon arrow. You'd have to use bareshaft, remove nock. Then cut from the back. Some components insert/outsert would be hard to remove. Even if you did, it could weaken the carbon.
If aluminum arrow go for it . Just heat, pull it out, cut repeat.

So just work on form and consistent shot.

Good luck and may all of your arrows fly true, and hit the spot.

ABN ATW

 

I just watched Podium Archer explain how bows and broadheads have changed and you don't really need to cut your arrows 1/2" past the riser when at full draw which is how it was typically done, but is now "old school". I'm not arguing that but he never really mentioned cutting the arrows down in increments to help tune the arrow to the bow. So most people that tune their bows and cut their arrows know that the shorter the arrow, the stiffer the spine. To adjust the arrow spine, without changing the arrow to a different spine arrow, you can either start with a longer arrow and cut it in increments to stiffen the spine or add or subtract point weight.

I gave that information because for the most part I never see compound bow techs ever tune the arrow to the bow by cutting the arrow in increments. I myself have done the exact same thing, draw the bow with full size arrow, mark with sharpie, then cut. However, I have completely changed this method when building arrows for traditional bows. I figure out what spine arrow should work with my point weight and shoot a bare shaft, long arrow. This gives you a knock left indicating weak spine and you cut in whatever increments you feel comfortable with until you are just about shooting bullet holes, adding the vanes as the last step should get you perfect.

So this was a long winded question of why don't we do this when cutting arrows for compounds? Or, are more people doing this and I just don't hear about it or is it not as critical with compounds? I can tell you with the traditional bows it is very important. There are numerous videos on the process, one of the better ones and more well known is from Black Widow Bows by Ken Beck. Anyway, just curious what some of you think? Does it just take too long for most shops to go through the trouble or is it deemed unnecessary for compound shooters? Thanks for the replies.

Because spine isn't as important with a centershot mechanical release bow as it is with finger release. We use to tune compounds the same way as a traditional bow when we shot them with fingers. When setting up a centershot bow, you can err on the side of stiff and it will be fine.

 

I like to include the arrow node placement on my rest location at full draw when making arrows to length. Helps the reduce error factor.

 

Easier to have stiffer spine than cutting to make stiffer. Don't want that BH close to my fingers, as after 60+ years & so far never cut a finger yet & don't plane to now!

 

With my compound my arrow length is chosen based upon what length puts the end of my arrow in front of my shelf. I tune the bow to fit the arrow.

with my recurve I choose an appropriate spine and cut the arrow in increments until I achieve the correct spine.

I saw his video too. I think he’s wrong.

 

I just watched Podium Archer explain how bows and broadheads have changed and you don't really need to cut your arrows 1/2" past the riser when at full draw which is how it was typically done, but is now "old school". I'm not arguing that but he never really mentioned cutting the arrows down in increments to help tune the arrow to the bow. So most people that tune their bows and cut their arrows know that the shorter the arrow, the stiffer the spine. To adjust the arrow spine, without changing the arrow to a different spine arrow, you can either start with a longer arrow and cut it in increments to stiffen the spine or add or subtract point weight.

I gave that information because for the most part I never see compound bow techs ever tune the arrow to the bow by cutting the arrow in increments. I myself have done the exact same thing, draw the bow with full size arrow, mark with sharpie, then cut. However, I have completely changed this method when building arrows for traditional bows. I figure out what spine arrow should work with my point weight and shoot a bare shaft, long arrow. This gives you a knock left indicating weak spine and you cut in whatever increments you feel comfortable with until you are just about shooting bullet holes, adding the vanes as the last step should get you perfect.

So this was a long winded question of why don't we do this when cutting arrows for compounds? Or, are more people doing this and I just don't hear about it or is it not as critical with compounds? I can tell you with the traditional bows it is very important. There are numerous videos on the process, one of the better ones and more well known is from Black Widow Bows by Ken Beck. Anyway, just curious what some of you think? Does it just take too long for most shops to go through the trouble or is it deemed unnecessary for compound shooters? Thanks for the replies.

They can say what they want but I will always put the broadhead in front of my skin. I've been doing this for over 50 years and, this past season, I moved to expandables for pronghorn on my 4mm Axis LR arrows. The quiver had been used for 5mm Axis. One of the arrows fell out and pierced my thumb from the back of the head. Dumba$$ on my part but I bled a LOT for such a small stick.

So, nothing sharp behind my fingers. I don't care what the "experts" say.

 

I agree.

 

I believe it’s coming from guys with longer draw lengths. It’s hard to keep a lower arrow weight when using full length arrows and to get away with a weaker spine. Personally for me I’m cutting them as short as I can to keep my weight down. There’s no possible way I can see my fingers getting sliced by a broadhead

 

I don't have that option. 34" draw length and shoot a Hamskea overdraw and full length Victory shafts still barely long enough.