[sundad35]

So I just bought a Z7 and the dealer installed a d-loop that in my preference is too long, and put a metal knock between the knots on the d-loop, just under the top one. The first time I drew the bow back with an arrow I noticed it lifted off the rest; not to mention the arrows werent hitting anywhere close to where I was aiming. Just from eyeballing the sight and rest, it should have been closer than what it was at 10yds! My concern is that I don't think I even need the metal knock cuz i think it puts too much pressure on the arrow. I've always used a plain d-loop and nothing else. What do yall think???

 

[switchbackjack]

ive tried it with brass knocks and serving knocks ,but i prefer just the loop take it off and tie your own...just my thoughts

 

[J-Daddy]

Your getting some killer nock pinch if it's lifting the arrow off of the rest with a field tip/broadhead on the arrow. I always check for nock pinch by drawing an arrow with no tip on it to see if it picks the arrow up off the rest.
Ditch the brass nock, spread the loop out some and tie in a nock set above & below the arrow nock on the inside of the loop and you'll be good to go.

 

[Limey]

I prefer tied nocking points above and below the nock and then a loop tied either side of the nocking points.

That way if I need a new loop I don't loose my nockig point, also if the loop should move my nocking point does not.

In the end it is personal preference how you do it.

 

[Easykeeper]

I would also get rid of the metal nock points. You can go with just a loop or a loop with a tied nock point inside. Very easy to do yourself.

I wouldn't worry about having to resight after changing your loop. That's pretty normal. You would have to be super accurate with the new loop to not have to tweak your zero after. You might also need to slightly adjust your arrow rest height. One of the nice things about having tied nock points inside you loop like J-Daddy said is you can change your loop without loosing your tune/zero.

 

[bowhuntermitch]

i would take the brass nock off, it does nothing but add weight to the center off the string, take it off and if you want some extra security and tie nock points in with serving material

 

[Buster of Xs]

First off, that dealer sucks and is pretty darned clueless when it comes to setting up a compound bow. The whole point of any nock points inside a loop is to PREVENT the nock pinch you're getting. And to do this it needs to go under the arrow, not above it....or both above and below with the bottom one being a bit larger. Plus brass nocks are pointless in a loop setup (try tied in serving nock points in their stead), and are heavier than need be.

 

[sundad35]

Thanks for the responses fellas. Im not a bow mechanic or anything but have seen my old man do all sorts of stuff on bows and when I seen what the dealer had done with this particular aspect I was kind of confused. At first I thought it might be ok and probably is because he's a dealer and knows what he's doing. but as soon as I looked a bit closer, I honestly didn't even know if my knock would fit between the gap of the brass knock and the dloop (im shootin easton flatlines/easton factory knocks). as soon as i knocked the first arrow I could tell there was significant pressure on both sides of the arrow. also, when i draw the bow, where my release grabs the loop is approx. 3/16-1/4" above where the actual knock of the arrow is. Idk if this is because the loop is longer then it should be or if it's from the pressure of the brass knock pushing/pinching the arrow downward. theoretically, shouldn't the release be directly behind the knock when using a dloop?? sorry for the rambling...im just confused/distraught about it.

 

[Buster of Xs]

By using a single nock point below the arrow, or a smaller one above with a larger one below, you will place the release directly behind the arrow nock. And eliminate the nock pinch.