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D loop length

21K views 72 replies 26 participants last post by  Bbd16  
#1 · (Edited)
What length d loop do you find you need to work with a typical hand held release, like a Carter Wise Choice? Seems like an index can be really short, but some of the other releases require some length to get locked in correctly.
 
#2 ·
I use a Perfex and find my D Loop is subject to the bow. Depends on string angle and DL. I am super picky and set my D Loop for fine tuning my draw length and anchor point. Sometimes I even fine tune my bow with the D Loop. It seems like a short ATA bow ends up with a shorter D Loop and a longer ATA ends up with a longer one. I don't have a "go to" size.

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#3 ·
I always say one of the first things you need to do when you decide to get a little serious about tuning and custom fit is to buy some material and learn to tie d loops quickly and painlessly. If you fall in love with your d loop the way it is and don't want to mess with it because you may not get it that perfect again...then you are stuck trying to work around it with all your tuning and custom fitting. And some releases are going to have an optimum length for your fit. Some you may find three or four different releases that work with one d loop and then another that throws off your anchor. There is a specific feel I want to the string on my nose and light contact on my face every time regardless of the bow or release. So I experiment until I get that...may possibly go through 3 or 4 d loops. I do have several releases I can shoot with several different bows,but they may have slightly different d loops. I like to shoot a short d loop so I usually try to get them short as I can and still get that "feel" of string contact to nose,face,and hand anchor. I start short and work my way out as needed. I try not to torque the string with the d loop, I try to get the forces of pull in a no torque alignment by shooting with a flatter hand. If you have a fixed head handle release and you like to twist it up flat on your face a longer loop can help to not torque the string .
 
#5 ·
I've found that with tied string nocks the d-loop shouldn't be shorter than 5/8". This under draw weight stretch. Otherwise it puts too much downward and upward pressure on the string nocks.
Those that have the d-loop only can be shorter.
D-loops of proper length don't cause torque back to the string to effect the shot or accuracy.
 
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#6 ·
I start with a piece of material cut to 4 1/4". "Ball" the ends(never flatten or mushroom the ends), tie it on then use loop pliers to tighten it and stretch it. Not too big, not too small. Works with most releases. I see way too many people make their loops twice the length they need to be.
 
#12 ·
Reading down through no way am I going to lose draw length on my bow for a overly long d-loop.
 
#13 ·
Me neither, but what works for me might just suck for someone else. I have seen crazy long, and I'm my opinion, way too long of a D-Loop. That said, I've seen them smash me on the 3D course. Ive seen people shoot crazy high scores with horrible set ups and also the opposite. I believe people get comfortable with ill fitted set ups and it becomes their "normal". It probably is no different than awesome shooters with bad form.

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#14 ·
1 inch long..
 
#17 ·
I tie mine so the finished length is about 5/8", no more than 3/4". I like the Cir-cut 2.4 mm Super Loop material. It stretches a bit at first, so I start 1/4" shorter, tightened with longnose pliers. I've tried all kinds of loop materials. None lock in as perfectly on the string, for me, as this stuff. It never sags or droops either. I never need to wrap my string with servings either.
 
#18 ·
I use a handheld so I cut my D Loop material at 4.5 inches then burn the ends. I tie nocking points above and below nock so at that length it gives me 3/4 loop. I like that length so I don’t have any unnecessary torque on the string with the twisting of the D Loop that you get with a handheld release. With a index release I go 4 - 4.25 to get a D Loop around 1/2 in since there is not at much twisting of the loop.
 
#27 ·
Bbd16: You are making perfect sense to me. I have had shops try a very short D-loop for me to where I could barely get the release hooked into the D-loop. Finally: I was at a friends house that used to shoot for a major bow company. We finally got the corrected longer D-loop installed. The almost 1 inch D-loop (inside of d-loop to string) allowed me to get into the correct full draw position. WOW: did it feel so much better. If the d-loop was a 1/2 inch shorter and the string a 1/2 inch longer, nothing would have fit me. Even though you might have the release at the same place with a shorter d-loop and longer length, you will not be in the correct position for your body. Now shorten the string 1/2 inch and lengthen the D-loop 1/2 inch, the release is still in the same position but NOW the bow fits you instead of you torqueing you body to the bow. Very simple and NOT rocket science.

I wonder how many archers have the overall correct anchor position for their release but their draw length and D-loop length are not correct?
 
#28 ·
Bbd16: You are making perfect sense to me. I have had shops try a very short D-loop for me to where I could barely get the release hooked into the D-loop. Finally: I was at a friends house that used to shoot for a major bow company. We finally got the corrected longer D-loop installed. The almost 1 inch D-loop (inside of d-loop to string) allowed me to get into the correct full draw position. WOW: did it feel so much better. If the d-loop was a 1/2 inch shorter and the string a 1/2 inch longer, nothing would have fit me. Even though you might have the release at the same place with a shorter d-loop and longer length, you will not be in the correct position for your body. Now shorten the string 1/2 inch and lengthen the D-loop 1/2 inch, the release is still in the same position but NOW the bow fits you instead of you torqueing you body to the bow. Very simple and NOT rocket science.

I wonder how many archers have the overall correct anchor position for their release but their draw length and D-loop length are not correct?
Yeah archery is pretty basic stuff lol Most of them I’m sure. I know I did for along time until I worked with a world class coach (griv) who taught me quite a bit. End of the day as long as u can repeat it it doesn’t have to be text book.
 
#30 ·
Yea and I’m in no way saying the previous posters bow doesn’t fit him etc... I’m just arguing the point that the draw length shouldn’t change bc of the obvious reasons you stated. If adjusting his form to fit a longer draw length works for him so be it more power to him on it.
 
#32 ·
D Loop length may not change your draw length. It will definitely change your anchor and form. To say "X" D Loop length is correct is just silly. I run a short D Loop and it is correct. Why? Because it fits ME. Body is pretty square (slight lean due to counter a heavy target bow) and string hits nose and corner of mouth. Short D Loop for me gives me a perfect anchor. I'm shooting a 35" and 36" ATA bow. My DL is just a hair over 28" (27.5" mod on Mathews and 28" on Bowtech). My bows fit me perfectly.

You know what CAN change your Draw Length? ATA can. I have to run a shorter DL for a 40" bow. Guess what? I need a longer D Loop. Ive heard a million times that I am mistaken but, I am not.....for me. This may make no sense to someone taller. I am short with a short DL. I have had people say that a 35" ATA is not good for target or 3D compared to 38-40" bows. Guess what? My scores are better and the string angle is drastically better for me with a short target bow (Reckoning 35, TRX36, Nexus 6, etc...). Now there are people shorter than me who shoot awesome scores with 40" bows. That ain't me.

D Loop and DL are subjective and what works for one may not work for another. Got a stubby nose? Short jaw line? Fat fingers? Long neck on release? All these things play a factor.

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#33 ·
D Loop length may not change your draw length. It will definitely change your anchor and form. To say "X" D Loop length is correct is just silly. I run a short D Loop and it is correct. Why? Because it fits ME. Body is pretty square (slight lean due to counter a heavy target bow) and string hits nose and corner of mouth. Short D Loop for me gives me a perfect anchor. I'm shooting a 35" and 36" ATA bow. My DL is just a hair over 28" (27.5" mod on Mathews and 28" on Bowtech). My bows fit me perfectly.

You know what CAN change your Draw Length? ATA can. I have to run a shorter DL for a 40" bow. Guess what? I need a longer D Loop. Ive heard a million times that I am mistaken but, I am not.....for me. This may make no sense to someone taller. I am short with a short DL. I have had people say that a 35" ATA is not good for target or 3D compared to 38-40" bows. Guess what? My scores are better and the string angle is drastically better for me with a short target bow (Reckoning 35, TRX36, Nexus 6, etc...). Now there are people shorter than me who shoot awesome scores with 40" bows. That ain't me.

D Loop and DL are subjective and what works for one may not work for another. Got a stubby nose? Short jaw line? Fat fingers? Long neck on release? All these things play a factor.

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Correct agree with most all of that. But simply shooting a shorter loop and changing to a shorter neck release doesn’t able you to lengthen your draw length assuming it’s already correct. That’s the huge misconception in archery. Unless you make adjustments to your form via leaning back, reaching out further etc.. Of course different bows may require slight tweaks to draw length etc... fully agree there too. One d loop fits all will absolutely never work.
 
#37 ·
sonny this is the same bow and same draw length same release. One photo has a 7/8 inch loop. The other photo has a 4 inch loop. Are you telling me you really believe that if I shorten that 4 inch d loop 3 full inches that I can now extend my draw length 3 full inches? The peep would be past my eye ball sonny. I have would have to lean back 5 miles to see through my peep. This is my last example for you. You’ve gotta be smarter than that. You’ve been in the sport too long to not know better. All the same rules apply with 1 inch and half inch measurements.
 

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#38 ·
Bbd16,

I teach shooting form to hundreds of people and looking at your two pics you just posted we need to spend some time working on things because you have some red flags that pop up instantly when I look at them. Once I see the rear half of your setup it may need some assistance also.
 
#39 ·
Bbd16,

I teach shooting form to hundreds of people and looking at your two pics you just posted we need to spend some time working on things because you have some red flags that pop up instantly when I look at them. Once I see the rear half of your setup it may need some assistance also.
That’s a customers bow in for tuning and photos I used for this diagram lol

I spent a couple years working with George ryals I feel plenty confident in where my form is at. Have 2 medical injuries one in the shoulder and one in c7. With that’s said I’m sure there plenty of room to improve with my form as well.
 
#42 ·
Two winters ago I devoted over 3 months to draw length work for myself, I had reached near pro level shooting at 29 inches. Why? Because when I was a newby the bow they handed me was a 29 inch bowtech guardian and that is what I learned how to shoot from day one. So 10 years later I had perfected my shooting form based on that setup.

The winter I devoted to draw length I was shooting a 29.5 inch prime ct9, so I shortened it as much as possible and I lengthened it as much as possible with the draw stops because they are slotted. I also used a ton of d loops at different lengths and at the most I was using a 2.5 inch long d loop. It was totally stupid long and floppy but it allowed me to spend some time shooting with a much longer overall draw length.

In the end I ended up with 30.5.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Two winters ago I devoted over 3 months to draw length work for myself, I had reached near pro level shooting at 29 inches. Why? Because when I was a newby the bow they handed me was a 29 inch bowtech guardian and that is what I learned how to shoot from day one. So 10 years later I had perfected my shooting form based on that setup.

The winter I devoted to draw length I was shooting a 29.5 inch prime ct9, so I shortened it as much as possible and I lengthened it as much as possible with the draw stops because they are slotted. I also used a ton of d loops at different lengths and at the most I was using a 2.5 inch long d loop. It was totally stupid long and floppy but it allowed me to spend some time shooting with a much longer overall draw length.

In the end I ended up with 30.5.
All that’s fine and dandy and plenty proper. But the point I’ve made here is when your bows draw length changes you HAD to change your form. Something had to grow between your spine and your hand. Space was created somewhere. And If nothing changed the string is now at a new location on your face. If that previous location was corner of mouth and tip of nose that no longer can be the case without altering your body.
 
#44 ·
I’m 100 percent on board with experimenting with a longer shorter loop and longer shorter draw length to see if your NEW form now yields better results. To think we can cut off a d loop length and add it to the bows draw length and excpect the bow to fit us the same though is in left field. The bows draw length now fits us differently. Maybe this new draw length and new form yield better results. Perfect. Now you have found your NEW draw length.