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Did I get the right GoldTip Arrows?

956 Views 22 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  kdbass
When I brought my new bow home I was curious how well it was paper tuned. At 5yds it had a low left tear, at 10yds it had a high right tear. I hope he didn't make me the wrong arrows. They seem to group well, all though I didn't get to shoot them at a longer range yet. Unfortunatly I know squat about arrows, and just told him to give me what he recomends. Here's what I got:

Bow: Mathews HyperLite set at 70lbs 29.5" draw
Whisker biscuit rest
String loop tied under brass nocking point

Arrow: GoldTip XT Hunter 5575 cut to 28"
2" Blazer Vanes
100gr field point
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When I brought my new bow home I was curious how well it was paper tuned. At 5yds it had a low left tear, at 10yds it had a high right tear. I hope he didn't make me the wrong arrows. They seem to group well, all though I didn't get to shoot them at a longer range yet. Unfortunatly I know squat about arrows, and just told him to give me what he recomends. Here's what I got:

Bow: Mathews HyperLite set at 70lbs 29.5" draw
Whisker biscuit rest
String loop tied under brass nocking point

Arrow: GoldTip XT Hunter 5575 cut to 28"
2" Blazer Vanes
100gr field point
Is the loop under where you nock? your loop should be so that you nock in the loop. YOur arrows sound fine maybee a little short but not sure. Also not sure if your new to the spor tor not but check and make sure your grip is consitant and your ankor points are consitant hope that helps.

How do you like your bow? I am waiting for mine to come in it is on order. I think I might have stroke before it gets her, I feel like a little kid waiting for x-mas to get here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My old bow had the string loop tied so you would nock the arrow between the loop Knotts like your saying. He set this up different. he said this creates more downward pressure on you arrow. He said they do it both ways... i don't know.

I love my bow. so smooth, quiet, fast, super light and compact. I shot alot of new bows this year and this was my soul mate!!!
 

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To get the most consistant you should have it set up the other way. In my mind if you have down force then the arrow woll want ot porpise (tail go up and down) I havent done this for ever nor do I claim to be a pro but I have never seen any one shoot like that before. its not hard to fix you could probably do it your self. Just revers one end and move it up then re-tie. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To get the most consistant you should have it set up the other way. In my mind if you have down force then the arrow woll want ot porpise (tail go up and down) I havent done this for ever nor do I claim to be a pro but I have never seen any one shoot like that before. its not hard to fix you could probably do it your self. Just revers one end and move it up then re-tie. Good luck
Yeah I know what you saying, but i was always told you want down pressure to be consistant. if you take your field point off, pull back, and your arrow flips off the rest, you dont have enough down pressure on you rest. This is acually set up like if you were to shoot directly off you string. Brass nock point, arrow, rubber bumper, release.... Brass nock point, arrow, string loop.
 

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Those tears can be tricky. At least for me. You may wanna go to the 7595.
Thats what I shoot with about the same set up in terms of draw and pull.

I just think a little on the heavy stiff side does not hurt.
 

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You may be right like I said I am no pro. I would try changing that before getting new arrows. Unless gold tip says they are wrong. I would put more stock in what they say than the guy at the shop depending on the guy at the shop. Hope you can get it figured out, it sucks when your arrow does not fly right.
 

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I would go with the chart. let me know if the nock loop works out, would be interesting since I have never seen that before to know if it really works.
 

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You are underspined. You will be able to get decent arrow flight with field points but will not have any luck getting consistency if you choose to shoot fixed blade broadheads. I started out with a very similar setup (as far as arrows are concerned) and after further educating myself sold off my 5575's and got some 7595's. After further research I decided to trade my 100 grain heads for 125 grain heads to improve my "front of center" percentage which drastically improved my arrow flight, especially with broadheads.
 

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you are definately underspined !!!

you need the 75/95's

and another thing ,no "Pro" would have sold you .400 spine 28" arrows to shoot out of 70 pounds.

maybe he just thinks he is a pro ;)
 

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I prefer the 7595's. I'm drawing 27" at 70lbs.
 

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I guess what I dont get from some of these comments is I shoot the 5575's out of my 67 pound reezen - 29 inch draw and arrow length with no issues. They helped me paper tune it and I watched the bullet holes I shot at 5 and 10 yards. In fact he pointed out form issues in my release hand that ended up being the issue for the last of the tear issues. Corrected that and it was bullet holes every time.

Tossed on a broadhead and they shoot like a field point.

The only thing I"m thinking of doing is going to the Pro Hunters instead of the XT's.

Can anyone explain?
 

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I guess what I dont get from some of these comments is I shoot the 5575's out of my 67 pound reezen - 29 inch draw and arrow length with no issues. They helped me paper tune it and I watched the bullet holes I shot at 5 and 10 yards. In fact he pointed out form issues in my release hand that ended up being the issue for the last of the tear issues. Corrected that and it was bullet holes every time.

Tossed on a broadhead and they shoot like a field point.

The only thing I"m thinking of doing is going to the Pro Hunters instead of the XT's.

Can anyone explain?
Agreed. Some people that are torqueing the bow and claim they can't get it papertuned blame the arrow for being wrong instead of blaming the shooter having problems. :embara:

Lien2
 

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I can shoot 5575's just fine out of my set up, but it seems that the 7595's are more consistent for me. I have a pile of both.
 

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You could also turn the draw weight of the bow down some - normally, the low 60's works out real well for 400 series shafts.
 

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