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Reverend
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know why the Hoyt specs for 2005, which aren't published yet, are different than 2004? I could understand the Protec. Everything changed. But the UltraTec? Nothing changed. Yet the string, control cable and buss cable length all changed. Did they reconfigure the riser or limb pockets? How does that affect performance?
 

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Dennis… these things aren’t written in stone for the ages… they are approximations, for tuning purposes… Like string lengths they need to be taken with a grain of salt…

In most cases setting the bow to the published specifications will get you close to the best performance, but by no means (except by the wildest stroke of luck) will it be the optimum.

In my tuning guide I expressly state to check DW, DL, draw stop timing and cam synchronization. I also explain how to go about setting the cam sync and timing; while maintaining the draw weight and draw length as specified. But the axle to axle and brace height is subjective at best.

On the ’05 UltraTec; Hoyt added the clunky chunk of wood and it shortened the draw length of the bow by approximately ¼” this was compensated for by slightly changing the A2A and brace… I have a couple of both ’04 and ’05 UltraTecs and all are setup exactly the same… to the ’04 specs; all have the same draw length but the draw weight, axle to axle and brace are slightly different on each.. How much different??? All are within a 1/8” and all perform very well…
 

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Reverend said:
What's this Javi???
And why would they add it?
I'm refering to the big wooden grip they added for '05 on the hunting bows... and I have no idea as to why the did so... mine came off as soon as the bow was pulled from the box..
 

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Reverend
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I feel sheepish

JAVI said:
In most cases setting the bow to the published specifications will get you close to the best performance...
In my tuning guide I expressly state to check DW, DL, draw stop timing and cam synchronization... But the axle to axle and brace height is subjective at best.…
Oops, sorry for my ignorance about the wood grip. :eek: I took mine off too.

Javi, concerning Hoyt's specs though: If my string and cables are the exact length they specify, shouldn't that get me to within 1/8 in. of their stated DL, BH, and A2A? Also, shouldn't it get me within the reference (tuning) holes. I find that following their string and cable length specs won't get me to their stated DL... and after twisting and untwisting to get to the desired DL of 28in., the A2A is longer by 1/4 in., and the the cables sit close to the outside of the tuning marks. If I'm correct that means I have too much overwrap. What's the solution? I feel that the only way I can get to the true published Hoyt specs (A2A, BH, 28in. DL), is in the "E" not "D" post. But I shouldn't have to move up to the 28.5 post to get a 28 in. draw. Does this make sense? Am I alone in this? What am I doing wrong?
 

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Reverend said:
Oops, sorry for my ignorance about the wood grip. :eek: I took mine off too.

Javi, concerning Hoyt's specs though: If my string and cables are the exact length they specify, shouldn't that get me to within 1/8 in. of their stated DL, BH, and A2A? Also, shouldn't it get me within the reference (tuning) holes. I find that following their string and cable length specs won't get me to their stated DL... and after twisting and untwisting to get to the desired DL of 28in., the A2A is longer by 1/4 in., and the the cables sit close to the outside of the tuning marks. If I'm correct that means I have too much overwrap. What's the solution? I feel that the only way I can get to the true published Hoyt specs (A2A, BH, 28in. DL), is in the "E" not "D" post. But I shouldn't have to move up to the 28.5 post to get a 28 in. draw. Does this make sense? Am I alone in this? What am I doing wrong?
String lengths are subjective as well... Hoyt gives you a measurment in an untwisted state...

Just twist them to make the bow work like you want... The way I find the proper string lengths for my bows is to use the factory strings if possible and get the bow to fit me… then I un-twist the string or cable the number of twists (20 for 22 strand 452X) I like in my strings and make new ones that length…

Hoyt or any other bow manufacturer ever intended you to use the published string lengths as a perfect setup… they all need tuning…

You are missing the point... you tune it in the "D" (some cams are "C" slot) slot for that draw length... then if required you move it to the correct slot for your DL...

You put way to much emphasis on reaching exact numbers, THE PUBLISHED NUMBERS ARE FOR REFERENCE your actual measurments will vary slightly...
 

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Reverend
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Bogged Down with Details

Thanks Javi.
So set up the desired DL by twisting or untwisting, and don't worry too much how that'll affect BH, A2A, or the location of reference holes? 1/4 in. off in A2A is not too much?

One more question: If I want a true 28in. DL, which slot would be better:
The "D" post but with a little overwrap? Or...
The "E" post with a little underwrap?
 

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As long as you have the desired poundage, and draw length with the tiller within a 1/8" (limbs bottomed) and the draw stop timing on, the other specs just need to be close.... and it shoots well... go for it.... measure everything and write it down... that is the correct set up for your bow...

in the case you described above.. it could be either to few or too many twists in the cables... probably no more than 4-6 either way.... I've always been able to get the reference holes to line up... I'm betting too many... then twist the string to get the dL..
 

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Smilin' Bob
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JAVI said:
Just twist them to make the bow work like you want... The way I find the proper string lengths for my bows is to use the factory strings if possible and get the bow to fit me… then I un-twist the string or cable the number of twists (20 for 22 strand 452X) I like in my strings and make new ones that length…...You put way to much emphasis on reaching exact numbers...
Hoyt, and any other manufacturer doesn't have the time or manpower to optimize each and every bow for each and every individual shooter.

Playing with different length harnesses and strings I've been able to stretch the draw length range of a spiral over a 1-1/4" range. Boy howdy... the ATA and brace are no where near the listed specs at the "outer limits", but the bow has shot well for me and the others that have shot it.

As Javi said, get it where it shoots best, then measure and record the pertinent information so that you can duplicate it in the future.
 
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