Components and part numbers
3x2x1 Project Box 270-1801
9V snap connectors 270-324
SPST Micro-mini toggle 275-624
5mm High Brightness white LED 276-017
330 Ohm resisters 271-1315
Also needed
Wire - I used 18 gauge hookup wire (about 4-5' total should be plenty)
Soldering Iron and solder
Phillips screwdriver
Electrical Tape
Zip ties
Optional:
Hot glue gun
LED holder 276-080
Step 1:
Start with the black wire from the 9V snap connector and solder to the 330 Ohm resistor. Solder about halfway up the wire on the resistor and cut the "tag end" off. This way it will fit into the side of the project box easier.
Step 2:
Cut another piece of black wire approximately 1-1.5" long and solder it to the other side of the resistor. Use electrical tape to cover bare wires.
Step 3:
Determine where you want the toggle switch on the side of the project box and drill a hole to install the switch on the box. Insert the switch but do not use the nut to hold it in just yet.
Step 4:
With the resistor fitted into the long side of the box, eyeball the approximate length of wire needed from the resistor to reach one of the tabs on the toggle switch. Mark the wire as needed and then remove everything and proceed to solder it to the toggle switch. It works best if soldered close to a 90 degree angle.
Step 5:
Take a long section (1.5-2') of black wire and solder it to the other tab of the toggle switch. Again, try to solder it at a 90 degree angle to the tab so it travels away from the switch opposite from the wire in step 3. Be very careful here, the tabs are close together and you do not want the wires to touch.
Step 6:
Take another long section of red wire(1.5-2') and solder it to the other half of the 9V snap connector. Again, electrical tape to cover bare wires.
Step 7:
Drill a second hole on the opposite side of the switch from the toggle. It needs to be large enough to get two wires through it.
Step 8:
Start fitting everything into the box. Start with the toggle switch and then bend the wire carefully to fit the resister along the bottom of the long end of the box like in step 4. Take the long red wire and long black wire and feed them through the hole made in step 7.
Step 9:
If you are using a LED holder, Take your LED and feed the "legs" through rubber insulator piece. It's not really needed, but it makes it a little easier to work with. You are ready to solder your red and black wires to the LED. Trim the black and red wires so they are about 12-14" long outside of the box. (Mine are way too long in the picture)
Red wire gets soldered to the LONG leg.
Black wire soldered to the SHORT leg.
Try to solder as high up the "legs" as possible, and then you can trim them afterwards. Use some electrical tape to cover the bare wires.
Step 10:
Attach your battery and test everything. If good, go ahead and use hot melt to hold everything in place in the project box. Attach the Lid using the screws that came with it and you're done! Zip tie to the riser and run the wires along your sight to place LED to wherever you need it.
Some hints and afterthoughts:
- My wires to the LED are WAY longer than needed. I really only need about a foot outside of the box. I'll make it work for now, but I plan to shorten them up later.
- There really isn't a good way to attach the project box without zip-ties, and when the battery goes bad I will have to cut the zip ties and use a screwdriver to take the top off of the project box.
- I took my unworking spot hogg light and adapted it to hold my LED. It works pretty good for now, but I'm sure there is a better way.
Thoughts or comments?
