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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've stolen many ideas off of this part of archerytalk that I better offer something up!

Here is my homemade cultipacker/roller that cost under 85 bucks depending on what you can get your hands on for free.

(1) 12" x 40" plastic perforated culvert $59.00 (this is where I spent my money, Menards wouldn't let me cut a piece so I had to buy the full stick)
(7) bags of 60# concrete $25.00
(1) 1-5/8" x .125" x 60" pipe FREE
(1) 1-1/2" X .125" x 60" pipe FREE
(2) 14.25" diameter x 1/2" plywood FREE
(20) 1" screws FREE


obviously the price of this unit can really fluctuate depending on what material you have on hand. If it wasn't for me having to buy a full stick of the culvert, my cost would of really dropped. I also determined the weight of this unit based off of the volume of the culvert in cubic inches minus the volume of the 1-5/8" pipe in cubic inches, then converting that into cubic feet and multiplying that by how much the concrete weighs per cubic foot. 144lbs(per calcs on bag) x 2.57 cubic feet = 370lbs

This was really easy and anyone can do this in an afternoon, feel free to ask questions enjoy
 

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So how long was the full stick of Covert for 59.00? Also seeing that the pipe is solid with the concrete, do you use bearings and a trailer type tongue to hook it up to your atv or tractor? I think a Simle trailor tongue made from 2" X 1/4" Angle iron with Pillow Block bearings would work realy well! Thanks for the post. Looks great and should do the job!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So my thoughts for finishing this packer is to put 1.25" O.D. pipe through the pipe I poured concrete around and create some sort of frame towards the four wheeler and meet in the middle about 30" in front of the packer (an "A" frame concept). At this point I'll bolt on a 1-7/8" coupler so I can easily hook it up to the hitch. Any ideas of what type of metal (i.e. square tubing, 1.5x1.5 angle etc.) would be greatly appreciated along with any frame design ideas. Tomorrow I'll design something in AutoCAD at work and upload it on here.
 

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Hello, I drew up a quick design. It is crude but I believe it would work out good. # 1 you do not want the distance only 30" From your Cultipacker. You would have to make very wide turns. I designed it to be 6 feet long and with the 40" Cultipacker you should be able to turn a lot sharper without jackknifing. I desined it out of 2" Square tubing 1/8" Thick. Take a look and see what you think!
 

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I had to do some thinking on this because I felt something was missing?? Then it hit me, you have to have something to kep the grooves cleaned out of the packer. So I redesigned it with another 2" Brace towards the Packer and all you have to do is weld 5/8" Cold roll onto it going into your grooves. Leave 3/8" Clearance so it does not hit your Colvert anywhere! See if this makes sense!
 

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RuffLight and Bsquare
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I'm not sure I like the grooves at all. I'm thinking of trying this but using the smooth cardboard tubes they use for round footings.

2" square tube is awfully hefty in my mind as well....but the design aspect looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ricky 2feathers - the fingers to clean out the grooves is an awesome idea!! i'm gonna use it. The only thing i have a question about is on the right end of the 1.25" pipe where the 2" tubing touches this pipe, how are you stopping the pipe from going any farther left? I see the pin on the left end, i'm thinking your idea is to weld a 1/8" plate on the right end of that pipe? Thanks for this sweet design!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
redruff i'm not sure which grooves you're talking about, seeds sticking to the soil that get clogged in the packer or falling into the grooves the packer will make in the soil?
 

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RuffLight and Bsquare
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With the ridges and valleys, the ridges will pack and the valleys won't. If you broadcast seed, the seed that gets under a ridge will get packed and ones that get in the valley won't.

Make sense? Or am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I understand, the sheer weight of this unit will depress the soil enough to also compact the valley portion of contact, but as soon as I use this unit I will report back and let everyone know just to be safe! thanks for the question!
 

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Ok, On your 1.25" Pipe that goes through the 2" Pipe already cemented in. You weld a Plate on the right side of the 1.25" Pipe so it will not go through the whole in your frame. It then can go through your the 2" Square tubing and then into the 2" Pipe, all the way though the other 2" Square tube frame. Then a washer and pin put in it! Your 2" Pipe would be cut to fit inside the frame. Thats what would keep it from moving left or right. You could make this work several ways! You could weld plates onto the Frame that your 1.25" Pipe axle would go through and the 2" Pipe cut to fit inside those plates or just drill 1.25" Hole through your 2" Square tubing frame. This is one reason I went with the 2" Square tubing. So your axle (1.25") would be able to go through the 2" Square tubing and be strong enough for all the weight. Hope that makes sense! LOL
 
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