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You need to tune your bow no matter what broadhead you are shooting. There are a lot of great resources on this subject in youtube.

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Bow needs to be tuned for best arrow flight and best penetration, yes, some mechanical heads might fly with field tips out of the box/store but penetration will lack if arrow isn't flying straight

Have fun and good luck with bow hunting
 

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Bow needs to be tuned for best arrow flight and best penetration, yes, some mechanical heads might fly with field tips out of the box/store but penetration will lack if arrow isn't flying straight

Have fun and good luck with bow hunting
I got mine to fly like the field pts but they did not expand when entering the target. Anyone had this happen? They are SIK 2 mechanical broadheads
 

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Always shoot your broadheads to know how they fly


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I confused as to if this is a real question ? I mean who would want perfect arrow flight with a mechanical right ? I mean it makes way more sense to have the arrow hit the animal sideways !


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Corripe Cervisiam
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Welcome Josh....yes, you need to BH tune your hunting bow.

An arrow with even a tiny wobble [that many times you cannot see in flight and don't realize it] kills arrow performance. You HAVE TO HAVE perfect arrow flight.

Many guys will tune with a fixed BH....then use a mech head. The whole point is making sure your hunting arrow hits where you are aiming....guessing doesn't cut it.
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TUNING;
First we need to make some assumptions as if you are shooting BH tipped arrows that aren't perfectly straight- tuning is for not.

Assumptions;
1)your cams are tuned [sometimes you want one slightly ahead of the other- sometimes the exact same] 2) you are shooting a perfectly straight BH tipped arrow AND 3) your rest is set at factory spec, 4) no form flaws [ inconsistent groups is an indication of this] 5) not underspined

any of these^ above...and you won't be able to tune

When a BH tipped arrow won't group with FP's that tells you that the arrow isn't coming out of the bow perfectly straight. Many times its an underspined condition.

Once the above is accomplished;

Heres what I do; I paper test FP's for a bullet hole at 3,6,12 yards. If you are getting inconsistent results...look in the mirror.....its form related. If my BH arrow is a right tear, I move the rest opposite [I chase the FP group with my rest] more on that in a minute ITS CRITICAL TO MAKE TINY ADJUSTMENTS....ITS EASY TO OVER ADJUST. I'VE NEVER HAD TO MOVE MY REST MORE THAN 1/16" ONCE ITS PAPER TUNED TO GET BH'S TO FLY PERFECT.

So once I have a bullet hole with FP's....thats the 1/2 way point of tuning. Then when BH tuning....I chase the FP with my rest. So if my BH's are left of my FP's, I move the rest a 32nd to the right.

SOMETIMES THIS^ DOESN'T WORK!

Heres why I think there is so much inconsistent advice out these on BH tuning; Paper tuning only got you close and SOMETIMES YOU OVER SHOOT. I've had times when I move my rest to chase my FP arrows....and keep moving and moving...and its still doesn't tune. The reason for that is I over shot it when paper tuning. When I go back to my initial setting and move it the OPPOSITE of chasing my FP's- BAM, my BH's group with my FP's. Key is tiny adjustments....and if you go past that 1/16" inch or so from factory....you more than likely need to go the other way.

THATS IT IN A NUTSHELL......

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I shot a couple practice heads in the wind at 50 and 60 yards this morning. Rage hypo and an ulmer edge, the ulmer was much more consistent!

Both spin true and weigh the same, bow shoots bare shafts with fletched to 30!


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