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Discussion Starter #1
My experience has been limited to wood Bear trad bows shooting off the shelf; and I have not shot any of the aluminum risers, but I have been thinking of buying something along the lines of a Dorado, or an Excel set up with TradTech limbs, maybe with a plunger and flipper rest, for hunting. (My draw length: 28".) I will probably start out at 35-40-pound limbs for practice, but could graduate to 50-55-pound limbs (for hunting the fairly big and tough wild pigs out here in California). These are lightweight aluminum designs, of course (as distinguished from something heavier like the TradTech Titan III riser). My specific question for you folks with wider experience is: do you think that these lightweight aluminum riser designs have more vibration or hand shock -- maybe too much -- at the heavier weights above, say, 45# ?
 

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I "think" buzz felt in a riser is usually due to the limbs being out of time (tiller). I've not noticed any undue buzz in a Titan, Morrison or even my cheap Axiom 21" riser. Nor have I noticed any in my GameMaster II's or Dorado's. I've had three different 21" Excel's. I could only get rid of the buzz by adding a stabilizer on all of them. No hand shock, but plenty of buzz. A lot of guys love them, but they're not my cup of tea.
 

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My experience has been limited to wood Bear trad bows shooting off the shelf; and I have not shot any of the aluminum risers, but I have been thinking of buying something along the lines of a Dorado, or an Excel set up with TradTech limbs, maybe with a plunger and flipper rest, for hunting. (My draw length: 28".) I will probably start out at 35-40-pound limbs for practice, but could graduate to 50-55-pound limbs (for hunting the fairly big and tough wild pigs out here in California). These are lightweight aluminum designs, of course (as distinguished from something heavier like the TradTech Titan III riser). My specific question for you folks with wider experience is: do you think that these lightweight aluminum riser designs have more vibration or hand shock -- maybe too much -- at the heavier weights above, say, 45# ?
As Jim Castro Jr.. has already suggested... and in MY OPINION... the answer is NO!.... I've only two metal riser bows... a Dorado and a Jaguar.... Neither have "vibration" nor anything that can be even remotely (in MY CASE) hand shock. I've got several bows that give you splitting headaches due to handshock... and again in MY OPINION... if you have properly weighted arrows, that are properly spined, you generally experience neither of these two conditions especially, IN MY OPINION, reflex riser bows...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jim Casto: Thanks for your input. There have been a lot of recommendations about the Excels; but I had not been hearing much about bothersome vibration on them. Was that experienced at the higher (above 45#) weights? Are the Dorados and Gamemaster IIs that do not "buzz" being shot at the higher (above 45#) weights?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rattus 58: Thanks for your comments. I am gathering that you are of the view that the lightweight designs shot at the heavier weights are not at all what is at fault where there is vibration or handshock, but that it is tillering being "off", or incorrect arrow weight or spine that causes it.
 

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I say no. Had a metal riser recurve and that bow had less vibration than another wooden recurve. IMHO, it comes down to the designer and design of the bow.
 

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Rattus 58: Thanks for your comments. I am gathering that you are of the view that the lightweight designs shot at the heavier weights are not at all what is at fault where there is vibration or handshock, but that it is tillering being "off", or incorrect arrow weight or spine that causes it.
In MY OPINION... yes... :grin:
 

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I had an original gamemaster from Hoyt in #55 and it had no bus or vibration at all. A very quiet now actually. Especially with heavier arrows. I've been thinking about buying the limbs back from him even. As I have a dorado riser that I really like a lot.

Ty
 

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IMO the weight doesn't matter, be it 20# or 70#. What I think matters is tune, which would include proper arrow weight, proper tiller/timing, etc.
 
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