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If you think your bow needs to have the cams synced by creep tuning when do you set the rest and nock point? If you just get the rest and NP close and creep tune it does change anything if you adjust the rest or nock after the creep tune.
 

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Back Yard Champion
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Paper tuning is a starting point. You go on to Walk Back or French Tuning. After this you go to creep tuning. Creep tuning is nothing more than minimizing the error in holding hard into the wall and hold soft on the wall. Then there is the difference of cams having a hard wall, soft wall and too soft a wall. Creep tuning may not be the best bet for some bows and especially so if the draw length is too long.
 

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There are many ways to approach tuning, and mixing techniques is one way to confirm results from another method. Paper tuning, to me, is a method that can be used if you don't have the form and consistancy to get a bare shaft to fly "clean".

Once "tuned", of all the things you coud do to dump the effort in the trash, nock and rest adjustments probably top the list. Creep tuning, as Sonny indicates, is a polishing step you may want to try, when everything is pretty much there. All of my current collection of bows have draw stop pegs, and the positive stop pretty much minimizes any variation in short/long draw.

I never bother with it.
 

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I'll be your huckleberry
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I do them at the same time. When my bow is creep tuned it us usually good on paper. Opinions are like arm pits too.
 
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