I do, it's pretty cool. Works as advertised, and even though my draw length is really well established, occasionally I need to move the clicker around for, say, shooting indoor vs outdoor. Or if I'm on the struggle-bus and just need a bit of adjustment to get that darned thing to drop lol.

 

Thanks for the reply. Do your arrow points have to extend out to the edge of the riser? Are there any downsides other than price? Would you recommend the short or long base plate?

 

If your arrow points are not at least at the edge of the riser then it's not going to work great. You can make it happen but only by reverse angling the clicker blade.

The short plate is quite short, you'd only really use that if you want the mechanism mounted as close to the riser as possible. If you want to place it a little further forward (as I do) to also act as a mild extended clicker then you'd want the long or even extra-long plate.

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My arrows extend out past the riser. As Z3RO stated, you can get it to work, just swing the clicker towards you.

I also would recommend the long plate, unless the aesthetics or small amount of extra weight bother you.

 

How is it holding up? I'm using the AAE micro adjust clicker, and while it's invaluable for my clicker transition, every one I've had has developed a buzz. My very first one had the adjustment knob fall off, so I quickly bought a replacement before contacting AAE; they had me send it back and they were way too generous and sent me two replacements for my troubles [so now I have two bows and three micro clickers]... But over time they have all developed a buzz like something is loose; I've isolated it by shooting the body without the clicker, and holding the knob seems to stop the buzz... No issues [with the replacements] other than the annoyance, and was considering trying the Beiter...

 

Found a good review here. Need to turn on closed captions unless you speak German and run at 3/4 or 1/2 speed. Wish I did as the reviewer seems fairly comical. He makes a good point in that riser thickness may be an issue and it would be necessary to bend the blade. He also makes the point that making micro adjustments on the line might be a bit much but from my perspective I think it would prove more useful for the developing archer (me) who has not yet mastered the nuances of using a clicker. It also greatly reduces the possibility of any accidental or vibration movement of the blade.

 

Yea, riser thickness is an important dimension with these. Bending the blade works, you just might need a lot of a bend if your riser is on the thinner side. I've also 3D printed my own plates that are thicker and have an offset pocket for the Microklicker mechanism to sit down into so that it's closer to flush with the sight window and needs less blade bend, and also mounted a little lower and closer to the arrow line so that I have more blade tip hanging down - makes loading an arrow a bit quicker and easier for me.

I've had mine since launch and there's no sign of buzz or rattle yet. I used an AAE Gold micro adjust clicker years ago and found that those do make more noise out of the gate and can become buzzer over time.

Adjusting the clicker on the line is probably not something you should do often, but it's nice to have the option. I really like the aspect of having the blade position more solidly locked down than just the rubber washer friction.

Also, it is like 5 clicks per millimeter when you do adjust it. That's super fine grained.

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So, I've set up a few and they are ok. Typical Beiter quality but..... Unless you are a top 10 shooter in your National Association, it's overkill.

Just my opinion.

 

Yea, I'd say that's quite fair and I agree.

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Well it arrived today and I am pleased. It's funny I never viewed this as a means to eke out a few extra points. If you're an elite archer or have your clicker sorted out it's probably not going to help. But if you're transitioning from no clicker to clicker, having the ability to quickly, accurately and repeatably find the correct position for the blade is useful. That said with one or two sessions it may become obsolete since once you find what works you could simply measure the distance to the button and swap it out with standard blade. If I were coaching I would definitely have one to use with my students who are making the transition. It does solve another major problem for me that I had with the regular Beiter, which was movement during a round. I have tried all of the recommended fixes to no avail. This is no longer a problem as the blade is fixed in the holder.

 

The solid locked down position is the main feature for me, to be honest. The second is to have precisely identical clicker positions between main and backup bow.

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Just got one and it is great other than I never have been a fan of the Beiter clicker blades which are quite flimsy.


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Just got one and it is great other than I never have been a fan of the Beiter clicker blades which are quite flimsy.


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Intrigued to know what kind of clicker you shoot if you think the Beiter is flimsy. The 0.3 is very loud. Only thing I have seen that might class as less flimsy are the carbon clickers. And the clicker that ships with the AAE microclick is made of tin foil.

Of course you do have to ignore Beiter and bend them or they will vibrate if you have a flat riser (after all they were designed for risers like the Radian that had a cut out for the clicker - also found on the Gillo GT etc). You also have to accept that if you bend the black ones sometimes you get a 2 part clicker

Stretch

 

AAE extended clicker or any of the magnetic clickers like Avalon that have a round shaft instead of a blade are far better IMNSHO than the blades on the Beiter.


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Oh eek! Magnetic clickers… Satan’s work!

I’ve been shooting Beiter clickers since 1991 and broken one. (Yes it was black and yes I had bent it).

Stretch

 

So, I got the Beiter micro clicker and finally installed it... It's different than my AAE, so it will take some getting used to.

Question/problem- How to install the blade so it is secure... I must have it wrong, as there is a bit of a "wiggle" [i.e. the blade doesn't feel truly secure] and occasionally I find the blade has moved... Ironically it moves towards the riser, so it's not as if I shot through the clicker and a vane caught it... In short, how to put the goofy thing together :/

 

There are four bosses on the plastic piece that the blade slips into. These bosses are used for the angular location on the adjuster slide. Once the blade is attached to the slide and tight it won't move. The side opposite the one with the bosses has a locator pin for the holes in the blade. There should be no play here either.

 

I'll take it apart and check\k it out again, with this it might make more sense now...

I appreciate the effort of putting in the pics, but BlindArcher I'm thinking I may have put the whole blade assembly together backwards, I sort of took the "let's see if this works" approach to putting it together and it may be all wackadoodle.

 

I felt I should do both text and photos with the thought that you might have the help of a sighted person. Hope it gets sorted out.

 

No worries, it's just a tease... You would be surprised at how often people don't make the connection...

Haven't shot it yet, but dang thing seems to be more solid when put together correctly

 

So the approach that I took was to set the blade to a good estimate as to where I thought it should be. Then with an arrow under the blade drew the string to a comfortable anchor without trying to get through the clicker (letting down at the end). If the clicker went off I moved the blade in 1-2 turns. If not then I moved the blade out 1-2. This may take a while if your estimate is off as each turn is only 1.25 mm or .050". Eventually you will get to a point where the clicker "just barely" goes off at full draw and you aren't straining too much. At this point you move the blade in 1 turn and that should leave you with just enough point under the blade for that imperceptible last part of the draw.