I am kind of new to the bow hunting scene and i haven't had much luck with my recent investment.I got a fred bear code with a whisker biscuit rest and set it all up at the local shop only to find that no matter what i do my nock flies left while my point is straight and so i paper tuned it to see if i could do any adjustments to it but no such luck. It continually no matter which way i moved my rest gave me a 1-2 in. tear to the left and it is driving me nuts. I talked to all the local guys and no one can think of why. My arrows are easton epic st 400 and i am only shooting 59# and my draw is 28.5. so if anyone has any suggestions or experince in this field please help me out.Thanks.
don't know what is wrong with my new bow
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When you shoot through paper how far back are you? You should do the walk back tune. Plus you may need to find the pine of that arrow. Your going to wonder what hell I'm talking about. To find the spine, you need to roll arrow with a bend in it. to do this palce arrow against your leg and put pressure on shaft. You will notice the shaft will spin quickly on side. Repeat this. Once you find this, mark it, and place your cock feather or vane here. You shouldn't have any more erratic flight. Let me know if this helps.
My 2 Cents!
hello.my setup is close to yours,except i have a Element,same arrows,100grn muzzy 3 blade BH,29 DL,at56DW,i also used a WB at first,but soon junked it for a fallaway rest,much better to tune with,you might not be able to get the proper adjustment with that WB!,
You might have to start from scratch,line your rest up,get the knock point where it needs to be,so your arrow is level,then walk back tune it,this is how i tuned mine first,then for kicks paper tuned it,shot once,perfect bullet hole...............:darkbeer:
hello.my setup is close to yours,except i have a Element,same arrows,100grn muzzy 3 blade BH,29 DL,at56DW,i also used a WB at first,but soon junked it for a fallaway rest,much better to tune with,you might not be able to get the proper adjustment with that WB!,
You might have to start from scratch,line your rest up,get the knock point where it needs to be,so your arrow is level,then walk back tune it,this is how i tuned mine first,then for kicks paper tuned it,shot once,perfect bullet hole...............:darkbeer:
arrpw flight
You may be making contact somewhere on the rest with your fletching. I shoot a whisker biscuit. I tried blazer 2" vanes; I could not get the tear out of the paper. I put spray foot powder on the rest (its turns to a white powder) and found that no matter how I arranged the fletch, it made contact with the edge of the rest. I had to change fletching. Also, if you have the whisker biscuit with the darker "hair" where the arrows sets, make sure the fletching is not being shot through it.
A fast way to check for proper spline may be to crank more or less poundage to your bow to see if the arrow responds to poundage adjustments. If you see no vane contact and rest adjustment makes not difference, you may be splined heavy or light on your arrow selection. Another way to test spline is using different weight field points of effect the spline of the arrow.
You may be making contact somewhere on the rest with your fletching. I shoot a whisker biscuit. I tried blazer 2" vanes; I could not get the tear out of the paper. I put spray foot powder on the rest (its turns to a white powder) and found that no matter how I arranged the fletch, it made contact with the edge of the rest. I had to change fletching. Also, if you have the whisker biscuit with the darker "hair" where the arrows sets, make sure the fletching is not being shot through it.
A fast way to check for proper spline may be to crank more or less poundage to your bow to see if the arrow responds to poundage adjustments. If you see no vane contact and rest adjustment makes not difference, you may be splined heavy or light on your arrow selection. Another way to test spline is using different weight field points of effect the spline of the arrow.
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Welcome to ArcheryTalk.bridge said:
You left out a bit of information.
So, here goes. I had to guess at some things.
Fred Bear Code
59 lbs for draw weight
28.5" AMO draw length
Easton ST Epic 400 shafts
Assumed the raw shaft length (tube length) = 28.5 inches
Assumed you are using 100 grain field tips.
Assumed you are using 2-inch Blazer Vanes
Assumed you are NOT using an arrow wrap.
Your arrows are a touch on the stiff side.
I would try a 125 grain field point.
If you can max the bow out at 60 lbs, that will also help.
You may also want to take one arrow
and cut off all the vanes to make it into a bareshaft.
Setup a bullseye at your shoulder height.
Stand 10 feet away.
Use a foam target or a layered foam block target or
use a straw bale at the range. These targets will preserve the angle of penetration for the bare shaft. A bag target will not.
Aim at the shoulder height bullseye.
You must have the bareshaft perfectly level, when at full draw.
A friend can watch you to make sure you are not aiming downhill.
Launch the bareshaft into the bullseye which is set at your shoulder height.
If the bareshaft is nock high,
try lowering your d-loop.
If the bareshaft is nock low,
try raising your d-loop.
Keep adjusting until you have the bareshaft stuck in the bullseye
at your shoulder height, and the bareshaft is perfectly level.
Now, try walk back tuning to set the arrow rest horizontal position.
Like others have said,
see if you have any arrow rest contact using the powder test
or the lipstick test. You can spread lipstick on the edges of your vanes.
Check your cam timing.
Make sure the tiller is even (limb bolts maxed out, and then turn back the same number of turns).
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