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I'm looking at buying a draw board to have in my basement shop. How often do you guys use yours and exactly what all can you do with it? I'm new to bow tuning and I'm getting the itch to do some. I have a LCA ez press, bow vise, paper tuner and a 4'×4' range target. I can shoot 18.5 yards so I have a nice little setup, just looking to try and get my feet wet in tuning beyond paper and walk back.

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One Shot
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You can:

Measure draw weight.
Measure draw length.
Check cam lean at full draw or along the way.
Check cam sync at full draw.
Time a drop away rest.

Probably some other stuff. I like them and use mine a ton; there are members here who will tell you all about how useless they are. For the low cost involved, it's worth forming your own opinion.
 

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I think anyone who wants to work on a bow should have one. Sure, you can check most things without one but it either takes a friend to help or is really tough and or dangerous to check by yourself. You can build one for less than $50 so why not have one, even if you only use it a couple of times a year?
 

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I'll add onto the list above.

Check holding weight to make sure cams are set up properly.
Watch nock travel.
If you retrofit it or set it up correctly, it can be a hooter shooter if you wanted to use something like this.
Look for any interference in cables hitting cams or rubbing or anything like that.
 

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All of the above. But, be aware of the offset required to get accurate d/l reading.
The pipe or dowel rod used at the low point of grip should be offset from winch line the same distance as the measurement from low point of grip to berger button hole. Otherwise the bow will rotate some and cause d/l measurement to be wrong.
 

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Don't buy one if you're the least bit handy. I think I have like $30 invested in mine.


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HHA products SUCK
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I was looking at buying one that attaches right to my ez press. You have plans for building one?

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That's a good space saving one, and the only one I'd buy! (go for it)

I have a C-channel, and a few parts...less than 100 invested but it's big.
 

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Socket Man
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One thing I would suggest is that measuring draw length is kind of not needed, it is more of a two reference point thing that you make marks on your draw board. Then any bow you put into the draw board you draw it back and see if the string matches up to the front mark and the length of the d-loop matches to the rear mark. Doing some measuring with a ruler will give you some numbers but you don't need them, you need the marks on the draw board.

Now as the weeks go by during heavy shooting periods you can stick your bow in the draw board and see if things have stretched quickly and without measuring and comparing numbers, the bow either matches to your marks or not.
 

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YouThinkIcan't?!WatchMe
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The pipe or dowel rod used at the low point of grip should be offset from winch line the same distance as the measurement from low point of grip to berger button hole. Otherwise the bow will rotate some and cause d/l measurement to be wrong.
Not the case if you measure by hand using tape. This is only case if you use tape that is attached to the board. Otherwise it doesn't matter at what angle is the bow at full draw.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not the case if you measure by hand using tape. This is only case if you use tape that is attached to the board. Otherwise it doesn't matter at what angle is the bow at full draw.
Yep, this is true!!

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You can make one for the cost of some desk screws, two 2x6-8's, a eye bolt, and a boat winch.

Seriously, make your own. The EZ press one hardly has ANY adjust ability to it (and if you want a draw board to work, you need the vertical adjust ability in the eye bolt).
 

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You are actually totally wrong. If you don't have the proper offsets, and the bow held too securely, then it will cause one cam to rotate more, or less, than the other, thus impacting your draw length, cam timing...basically the whole reason to use a draw board. Not to mention, the draw board string needs to be parallel to the powerpath of the string of the bow in order to see proper cam lean.

Try not to spread false information, hoss.

Not the case if you measure by hand using tape. This is only case if you use tape that is attached to the board. Otherwise it doesn't matter at what angle is the bow at full draw.
 

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YouThinkIcan't?!WatchMe
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You are actually totally wrong. If you don't have the proper offsets, and the bow held too securely, then it will cause one cam to rotate more, or less, than the other, thus impacting your draw length, cam timing...basically the whole reason to use a draw board. Not to mention, the draw board string needs to be parallel to the powerpath of the string of the bow in order to see proper cam lean.

Try not to spread false information, hoss.
You just made an example of pretty pretty rare technique. He will need to screw the bow down or hold it with some kind of clamp or something. So there is no way it will move. Never seen anybody done it but it is possible. Otherwise the bow will rotate on the "pin" same as it will tilt on your hand.
 

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YouThinkIcan't?!WatchMe
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You are actually totally wrong. If you don't have the proper offsets, and the bow held too securely, then it will cause one cam to rotate more, or less, than the other, thus impacting your draw length, cam timing...basically the whole reason to use a draw board. Not to mention, the draw board string needs to be parallel to the powerpath of the string of the bow in order to see proper cam lean.

Try not to spread false information, hoss.
You made me loose my mind over this. I need to test it now :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wow, now I think I'm just gonna hold off on buying/making one. Some make it sound so easy to make and others make it sound too technical.

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It isn't really technical, at all. You just need to do it right.

I will take a picture of our draw board tonight and you can see how easy it is to build! :)

Wow, now I think I'm just gonna hold off on buying/making one. Some make it sound so easy to make and others make it sound too technical.

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If you do decide to build on yourself, which you should, do not use the click style boat winch. Use the screw kind. Far more accurate and you can make small adjustments on the draw where as the click style is too coarse therefore you need a turn buckle. The screw style is slow, but I use my cordless drill on it and it works perfect.
 
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