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Easy way to check is put the bow on a draw board, crank it to full draw and measure the true draw length from the lowest point in the grip back to the string between the d-loop. Then add 1 3/4". That will tell you the AMO draw.
You can also do this by having a buddy mark an arrow for you at fulldraw at the center of the berger button hole and then measure the arrow from the throat of the nock groove to the mark and add 1 3/4". Don't forget when determing your personal draw to include the length of the D-Loop. I always remember what my true draw is (distance from lowest point of the grip to the string between d-loop + d-loop length, and then purchase bows by drawlength in that manner.
I have seen several bows not meet what Manufactures state. This way you will know what your dealing with and if you need to go up in cam size. Bowtech cams are draw specific with a little room to work with the draw stop but we are talking minute increments. You ain't gonna get a 1/2" never mind an 1".
You can also do this by having a buddy mark an arrow for you at fulldraw at the center of the berger button hole and then measure the arrow from the throat of the nock groove to the mark and add 1 3/4". Don't forget when determing your personal draw to include the length of the D-Loop. I always remember what my true draw is (distance from lowest point of the grip to the string between d-loop + d-loop length, and then purchase bows by drawlength in that manner.
I have seen several bows not meet what Manufactures state. This way you will know what your dealing with and if you need to go up in cam size. Bowtech cams are draw specific with a little room to work with the draw stop but we are talking minute increments. You ain't gonna get a 1/2" never mind an 1".
