Draw length 32.5"
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I have a 32.75" draw so I feel your pain (LOL).
Seriously, the lightest bow I have is a Bear Kodiak Special that is factory marked 28# @ 30". At my draw it is pulling 34# so you would have to go down to something marked 24# to 26# at 28". The problem you are going to run into is anything that light was probably designed for youngsters or a lady and it is likely to start stacking beyond 28". That's why I bought the Kodiak Special, marked the way it was. It doesn't stack at my draw an I used it for a learner back when I returned to archery. Now it's a wall hanger in that I've moved on to other options.
Were I you, I would look for a 69" to 70" target recurve in the 26# to 28# range. The better bow you buy (and we're talking used here) the better chance you will have of it not stacking.
The other solution would be to buy an Olympic style riser (metal) and buy long entry level ILF limbs in the 26# to 28# range. That would give you a smooth, stable bow to learn on and you can up grade limb quality and weight when you are ready.
Hope this is of some help. You have a kind of unique problem...I know, I've been there.
Dave
Seriously, the lightest bow I have is a Bear Kodiak Special that is factory marked 28# @ 30". At my draw it is pulling 34# so you would have to go down to something marked 24# to 26# at 28". The problem you are going to run into is anything that light was probably designed for youngsters or a lady and it is likely to start stacking beyond 28". That's why I bought the Kodiak Special, marked the way it was. It doesn't stack at my draw an I used it for a learner back when I returned to archery. Now it's a wall hanger in that I've moved on to other options.
Were I you, I would look for a 69" to 70" target recurve in the 26# to 28# range. The better bow you buy (and we're talking used here) the better chance you will have of it not stacking.
The other solution would be to buy an Olympic style riser (metal) and buy long entry level ILF limbs in the 26# to 28# range. That would give you a smooth, stable bow to learn on and you can up grade limb quality and weight when you are ready.
Hope this is of some help. You have a kind of unique problem...I know, I've been there.
Dave
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908 Posts
tt:
I have a bow such as Viper has described that needs a new home. It is a FITA type target bow, a Hoyt Gold Medalist. It is marked 70 inches and 26 pounds at 28 inches of draw. It is in mint condition, as new, apart from some pigment from the string near the limb tips. The limbs are white, and the riser is pearly white, rather pretty. If you should have an interest you, or anyone else, could send me a private message, or a post.
Actually, I have a remark or two to make about this topic. I have several other bows that draw in the mid thirties at my draw length, lonly 30", so I am not a real knuckle dragger. But I can tell you that this sort of target recurve, and the old one piece target recurves, long ones, 68, 69, 70, even 72 inches produce tremendous arrow speed with a long draw, hence a long power stroke. They are also delightfully smooth, by which I mean mainly the absence of stack at a long draw length.
You are wise to consider a light one because frankly with a long power stroke they are almost too fast! By this I mean the point blank or point on range is out so far that you have to hold well under at most distances. You need to leave your shafts long and hold three under to keep your point blank range reasonable. I'm able to keep my point blank range under 60 yards but with your long draw you might well be over 70 yards. That makes it pretty tricky to aim at a mere 40 or 50 yards.
I have a bow such as Viper has described that needs a new home. It is a FITA type target bow, a Hoyt Gold Medalist. It is marked 70 inches and 26 pounds at 28 inches of draw. It is in mint condition, as new, apart from some pigment from the string near the limb tips. The limbs are white, and the riser is pearly white, rather pretty. If you should have an interest you, or anyone else, could send me a private message, or a post.
Actually, I have a remark or two to make about this topic. I have several other bows that draw in the mid thirties at my draw length, lonly 30", so I am not a real knuckle dragger. But I can tell you that this sort of target recurve, and the old one piece target recurves, long ones, 68, 69, 70, even 72 inches produce tremendous arrow speed with a long draw, hence a long power stroke. They are also delightfully smooth, by which I mean mainly the absence of stack at a long draw length.
You are wise to consider a light one because frankly with a long power stroke they are almost too fast! By this I mean the point blank or point on range is out so far that you have to hold well under at most distances. You need to leave your shafts long and hold three under to keep your point blank range reasonable. I'm able to keep my point blank range under 60 yards but with your long draw you might well be over 70 yards. That makes it pretty tricky to aim at a mere 40 or 50 yards.
Joined
·
908 Posts
tt:
I have a bow such as Viper has described that needs a new home. It is a FITA type target bow, a Hoyt Gold Medalist. It is marked 70 inches and 26 pounds at 28 inches of draw. It is in mint condition, as new, apart from some pigment from the string near the limb tips. The limbs are white, and the riser is pearly white, rather pretty. If you should have an interest you, or anyone else, could send me a private message, or a post.
Actually, I have a remark or two to make about this topic. I have several other bows that draw in the mid thirties at my draw length, lonly 30", so I am not a real knuckle dragger. But I can tell you that this sort of target recurve, and the old one piece target recurves, long ones, 68, 69, 70, even 72 inches produce tremendous arrow speed with a long draw, hence a long power stroke. They are also delightfully smooth, by which I mean mainly the absence of stack at a long draw length.
You are wise to consider a light one because frankly with a long power stroke they are almost too fast! By this I mean the point blank or point on range is out so far that you have to hold well under at most distances. You need to leave your shafts long and hold three under to keep your point blank range reasonable. I'm able to keep my point blank range under 60 yards but with your long draw you might well be over 70 yards. That makes it pretty tricky to aim at a mere 40 or 50 yards.
I have a bow such as Viper has described that needs a new home. It is a FITA type target bow, a Hoyt Gold Medalist. It is marked 70 inches and 26 pounds at 28 inches of draw. It is in mint condition, as new, apart from some pigment from the string near the limb tips. The limbs are white, and the riser is pearly white, rather pretty. If you should have an interest you, or anyone else, could send me a private message, or a post.
Actually, I have a remark or two to make about this topic. I have several other bows that draw in the mid thirties at my draw length, lonly 30", so I am not a real knuckle dragger. But I can tell you that this sort of target recurve, and the old one piece target recurves, long ones, 68, 69, 70, even 72 inches produce tremendous arrow speed with a long draw, hence a long power stroke. They are also delightfully smooth, by which I mean mainly the absence of stack at a long draw length.
You are wise to consider a light one because frankly with a long power stroke they are almost too fast! By this I mean the point blank or point on range is out so far that you have to hold well under at most distances. You need to leave your shafts long and hold three under to keep your point blank range reasonable. I'm able to keep my point blank range under 60 yards but with your long draw you might well be over 70 yards. That makes it pretty tricky to aim at a mere 40 or 50 yards.
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