Draw Length and Draw stop not sync'd- HELP!
Hey guys,
Just got new cams put on my bow. After a few shots it felt like the string was jumping out of my hands in that I had almost no let off.
I have a 28.5 in draw length. I realized the bow was set on module 2 instead of 2.5. I changed it to 2 and now it feels like my letoff is great.
The issue is my draw stop is still set at the setting for 29" draw length (6.8) . Do I need to move it to 5.9 as recommended or is it a problem
to leave it where it is? Is my bow going to be slower (over rotated?)
Pros and cons?
Thanks a ton
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Just got new cams put on my bow. After a few shots it felt like the string was jumping out of my hands in that I had almost no let off.
I have a 28.5 in draw length. I realized the bow was set on module 2 instead of 2.5. I changed it to 2 and now it feels like my letoff is great.
The issue is my draw stop is still set at the setting for 29" draw length (6.8) . Do I need to move it to 5.9 as recommended or is it a problem
to leave it where it is? Is my bow going to be slower (over rotated?)
Pros and cons?
Thanks a ton
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
from what I can gather is you changed the module to a SHORTER draw length setting and left the Draw stop alone?
This will give you MORE letoff. It's not really a bad thing if you like it.
The bow will perform better in the correct settings.
It sounds like the bow has never been adjusted to get the correct specs..
You will need to take it to a shop or someone with a press. tighten the limb bolts all the way, adjust the cables to get max poundage, back the limb bolts to your poundage( if needed)next, adjust cables to get correct cam synch. ( draw stops hitting at the same time), then check draw length.
thats a simplified version but it will get you real close. You can get more valley with all the settings being correct with cable and string adjustments but the major stuff has to be done first
This will give you MORE letoff. It's not really a bad thing if you like it.
The bow will perform better in the correct settings.
It sounds like the bow has never been adjusted to get the correct specs..
You will need to take it to a shop or someone with a press. tighten the limb bolts all the way, adjust the cables to get max poundage, back the limb bolts to your poundage( if needed)next, adjust cables to get correct cam synch. ( draw stops hitting at the same time), then check draw length.
thats a simplified version but it will get you real close. You can get more valley with all the settings being correct with cable and string adjustments but the major stuff has to be done first
You are exactly right re: settings. What makes the bow perform better with shorter letoff and why do I need to tighten it all the way down first?from what I can gather is you changed the module to a SHORTER draw length setting and left the Draw stop alone?
This will give you MORE letoff. It's not really a bad thing if you like it.
The bow will perform better in the correct settings.
It sounds like the bow has never been adjusted to get the correct specs..
You will need to take it to a shop or someone with a press. tighten the limb bolts all the way, adjust the cables to get max poundage, back the limb bolts to your poundage( if needed)next, adjust cables to get correct cam synch. ( draw stops hitting at the same time), then check draw length.
thats a simplified version but it will get you real close. You can get more valley with all the settings being correct with cable and string adjustments but the major stuff has to be done first
Thanks!
Oh and one more question- is mine currently set at 5.5 (measured at the leading edge of the stop) or correctly at 6.8 measured from middle of the stop?
Thanks!
Thanks!
you are not going to get a shorter "letoff" you are getting a shorter valley. Having the bow set the way you have it ( shorter module setting/ longer draw stop setting) lets the cams rotate further after they they roll over the letoff point of the modules. as you've found out, this gives you MORE letoff and MORE valley.
The downside to MORE letoff and MORE valley (especially more valley) is on release, the bow spends a ton of time in that "dwell zone" and when it finally transitions into the power stroke of the cams it acts negatively on the arrow. You want the "dwell" zone as short as possible. this is why target shooters like short valleys and LOWER letoff.
For a hunting bow higher letoff is preferable if you are waiting on an animal to step into a shooting lane. Optimally a hunting bow would have 90%letoff with an 1/4" valley. I think PSE is doing this.
With your bow, 75% with about 1/4" valley is about what the designers built into it. You have a slot with the draw stops so valley and letoff are adjustable when you get the bow within specs.
It is not absolutely necessary to tighten the limb bolts all the way down and make your settings but when you do it usually puts the bow back into all it's specs(BH, ATA). Then when you back the limb bolts out the limb adjustments are correct. If you leave the limb bolts in a "certain" position and adjust the cables to your poundage, you may be running strong or week on the limbs. In reality this is not a real big deal if, say, you are running a 60-70lb bow at 65lbs. But I have had better luck tuning and adjusting when I tighten the limb bolts all the way, adjust everything and then back off and fine tune from there.
The downside to MORE letoff and MORE valley (especially more valley) is on release, the bow spends a ton of time in that "dwell zone" and when it finally transitions into the power stroke of the cams it acts negatively on the arrow. You want the "dwell" zone as short as possible. this is why target shooters like short valleys and LOWER letoff.
For a hunting bow higher letoff is preferable if you are waiting on an animal to step into a shooting lane. Optimally a hunting bow would have 90%letoff with an 1/4" valley. I think PSE is doing this.
With your bow, 75% with about 1/4" valley is about what the designers built into it. You have a slot with the draw stops so valley and letoff are adjustable when you get the bow within specs.
It is not absolutely necessary to tighten the limb bolts all the way down and make your settings but when you do it usually puts the bow back into all it's specs(BH, ATA). Then when you back the limb bolts out the limb adjustments are correct. If you leave the limb bolts in a "certain" position and adjust the cables to your poundage, you may be running strong or week on the limbs. In reality this is not a real big deal if, say, you are running a 60-70lb bow at 65lbs. But I have had better luck tuning and adjusting when I tighten the limb bolts all the way, adjust everything and then back off and fine tune from there.
The usually make the adjustment marks on the cam to set the middle of the bolt head to.Oh and one more question- is mine currently set at 5.5 (measured at the leading edge of the stop) or correctly at 6.8 measured from middle of the stop?
Thanks!
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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