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I was wondering about what your theory is on building bows to a specific draw length. I've only built a couple of selfbows & looking to have a laminated recurve built soon & maybe make one myself. I know there are alot of 28" draw length bows for sale out there but if you shoot at 26" or 27" you would not be getting the full potential from the 28" bow. Correct ?? I would think that if someone was to build 2 identical bows only difference being draw length,say a 26" and 28" the bows limbs should be opening at different times to make the limbs work to their full potential at the specific draw length. If I draw a 26" bow my limbs should reach total open sooner than the 28" bow, correct ? Not just stop short in the draw cycle. I hope I'm making sense here. I have bought bows in the past at a 28" draw at a peak weight of a little more than I like to shoot & people have said " well at your draw length you'll be shooting the lighter weight" Obviously but I wouldn't think that is the way to go. Isn't a limb designed to work at a specific draw length ? Sometimes hard to find used bows made to my shorter draw 25-26". I just would like some more opinions on this from some of the bowyers out there. I'm going to have someone make me either a 1 piece or 3 piece t/d recurve soon, a short 52" 45#ish @ 26" draw. So if anyone out there is interested in a bow build job, let's talk. Thanks for your input, John
 

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Not a bowyer, but I would assume (uh-oh?) most bows have a draw length "window" where performance is virtually identical and it's not really worth the effort/expense to tweak the tillering anymore. For most folks anyway. Some very few might notice a difference.

You can try an ILF riser/limb system bow: you can tweak tillering and draw weight a bit to your liking.

Your still gonna loose 2 inches of the power stroke. A custom bow that's tweaked to [email protected] is still gonna be a tad slower than another tweaked at [email protected], all else being equal.

If I'm wrong, I'm sure somebody will jump on me.
 

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When I build bows, I do it in the other direction. With wood, the bows need to be long enough for the draw. Shorter is okay, but longer is preferable. Better string angle. But you're right, short drawing most modern 28" bows would be akin to "overbuilding", as in using more mass than needed. That should slow you a little bit. But the shorter power stroke does way more than any extra bit of limb mass would:lol:.
 
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