[joshbennett04]

I called American Eagle Bows to see if they had any pylon mounted (PDC's) draw stops for my Strike Eagle but they aren't finished being made yet. I was told it would be about a month and I do intend on purchasing them once they are complete but would like something temporary for early deer season. At full draw I get about 5" (guess) of play without a draw stop. It is really hard for me to get consistency with this much overdraw. I also often slap the **** out of my arm.

I am curious, would be any adverse effects to moving the yoke closer to the power limbs so they make contact with the power limbs when the bow is at full draw? Assuming, of course, that I could get both yokes the same distance from the limbs at full draw. I could even put pieces of rubber against the power limbs so they wouldn't damage the power limbs, if damage is even possible. That would probably quiet it some, too. It would act not so much as a draw stop, but as a point of reference, if you will. So long as I don't jerk the string back hard, I don't know that it would have any problems, but I could be wrong.

I did see another type of draw stop that mounted to the power limbs and stopped the outboard limbs kind of like you see hooked to the hinge of a door hinge to stop a door from opening too far. I don't know where to find these, though.

Thoughts?

One last thing you may notice in the picture is that the cams have a tapped hole in them and a slightly lighter finish, which makes me think something was mounted there before. PDC's maybe? Also, should there be a screw in that hole?

Regards,

 

[GenesisAlpha]

A strike would not be able to use the lower limb mount stops because of two issues, the clevis mount for the power cable and you would have to buy hinges that have threads in them like the newer version bows. We had once developed a set that also carried the clevis mount but we did not go into production of them. See if Richard at Gulf coast did any or could get a set one offed for you. I have the specs for them and it does not involve a cable length change.

As for the pylon mounted ones you should be able to get a used set or buy from CP. The other ones would be the cam mounted version which are meant for the bow you have and also could be one offed buy a competent machinist for a low cost. They are not that difficult. A shop that depends on someone else to write their programs will take forever if they have CNC. If they do not have the skill to run in manual mode it can also take a long time. Talk to Richard I am sure he has a good machinist behind him.

 

[joshbennett04]

I guess I didn't realize I could order directly from CP Oneida. I ordered the pylon mounted PDS's. I can't find any youtube videos on how to install them so I think I will make one once I get them in the mail.

Thanks for the info GA.

 

[GenesisAlpha]

The pylon mounted ones require that you drill two holes in the pylons in the same location at both ends on the opposite side to the timing cable and timing idler wheels. On a right had bow it would be on the left side. Oneida should be able to send you a template of the pylon with the location marked on it.

Always glad to help.

 

[RightWing]

The pylon mounted ones require that you drill two holes in the pylons in the same location at both ends on the opposite side to the timing cable and timing idler wheels. On a right had bow it would be on the left side. Oneida should be able to send you a template of the pylon with the location marked on it.

Always glad to help.

^ Good Info Bob :thumb: