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Discussion Starter #1
i bought a nap quicktune 2000 last year and i have been fighting the thing ever since i bought it. first of all should i rig it up diffrent and not use the buss cable they give you with it that attaches to the cable gaurd. my bows a pse baby g a 2000 model , arrows seem to fly great but after about 10 shots the vanes are just all chewed up , and now after this morning of shooting i noticed that the arrows were not flying as true as they usually do and my last shot the launcher was stuck in the up position , so i took it apart and the spring just came flying out at me cause it was under so much tension, now i cant get it back in there the way it was but anyways, i want to know how to get total fletching clearance, ive tried cock vanes up still no luck , PLEASE HELP IM SICK OF REPLACING VANES EverY 10-20 shots. :angry: thanks bowhuntermitch
 

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E bay it and get a Trophy taker or drop zone. No offense.
 

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Does that have a standard prong type launcher or other? A prong type will usually still put an arrow out smooth enough without eating fletching even if it decides to not work. Arrow will just usually go high or low due to inaction if you got an aligned cock vane down setup..
I almost want to ask if your sure it isn't your cables eating fletching:) ,,nah, probably not, ... I've just never seen a drop away not be fast enough to get out the way of oncoming vanes I guess... I use GK Premier drop away and experiment with different fall away settings by shortening and lengthening the cord and have yet to cause a problem at either extreme.
If you get the thing back together working at some level make sure you turn your arrow around backwards and slide the fletching all through the sight window and out with the shaft running along your nock point to see if vanes are in contact with anything due to angle it leaves the bow. You can also try shooting some arrows with spray on powder all over the sightwindow, rest and arrow to confirm what you may or may not be hitting with your fletching.
If it turns out you got a seriously minimum clearance between things (sight window, front of riser, or rest housing and drop shaft) but you know the bow is tuned well then try setting the drop away to guide the shot longer so that the arrow has no chance to contact them other things while leaving bow.
So basically.., you gots to confirm what your fletching is hitting. Is it the launcher or something else?, would be the question to ask.
Lastly, keep a forward angle of whatever launcher you do have on that thing. There is no need to make the rest work any harder or longer to get out of the way by having an extreme standup position. You want it to have as straight up/down movement as possable not some arching 1/4 circle type movement. (takes longer). Only hieght needed is enough for fletch clearance from the rotating dropaway shaft or body of rest... Good Luck :)
 

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When I first set my QT4000 up it was chewing up the cock feather (cock down) and it was causing a tear when paper tuning. Can't remember which way the tear was, but the problem was that I didn't have the cable set short enough and the rest was dropping too soon and the the arrow was dropping down and the fletching was hitting the front of the rest. Spray a little foot powder on your rest and see where the fletching is hitting and go from there.

Once I had mine set up it's been great, got one on both of my bows and 3 of my friends have them on with no problems yet.

Good luck.
 

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I am having a problem with my Nap Quicktune 1000 rest also. Here is the whole story. I bought a Reflex Grizzly at Cabelas and they set my draw length,weight and attempted to paper tune it. Well after seeing how they did things it left much to be desired. So I take to local proshop one. Guy just looks the bow over and put a d loop on it and adjust the sight for me charges me $5.00 dollars and tells me I need to have my arrows refletched. This is after I ask him to Tune the bow for me. So now I am off to find another proshop. Find it, take the bow in and the guy says he will need me to leave the bow with him over the weekend and I can pick it up Monday. So I go in on Monday and he informs me that the Arrow is tail high still and he had to move the rest all the way out to correct the center shot problem. Then he tells me that after he did that it created a fletching clearence problem. The cock vain is hitting the rest on the way out and he didn't know what to do to fix it. Said I should just buy a new rest. The Cock vane is hitting the silencer material on the prongs leaving a black line down the entire vane. Here is a picture of what it is doing, can someone please help me figure out what is going on and how I can fix it? Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Keenedge said:
E bay it and get a Trophy taker or drop zone. No offense.
That is a good idea!!!! I had one at one time it cost me more arrows than it was worth!!!!!!! :angry:
 

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Hmmm..very concerning this is, sounds like a common problem with all them quiktunes. Maybe NAP should do a recall on everyones complete bow setup and tune them for fletch contact.. :p

Maybe they are just too darn fast and they are all falling early...
Turn yer nocks a bit if prong equiped regardless if ya all get them drop timed correctly. :wink:
 

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I'm having the same problem with my quicktune drop away, N.A.P makes some great stuff, but I'm thinkin about gettin a new rest, I have only had it for like 3 months and after 20 shots my fletching at worth much either. Im gonna look around and find another one I think, it ticks me off i wasted like 50 bucks on a piece of equipment that doesnt wanna be tuned. Good luck with yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok i did some test and i guess the fletching is hitting the cables , yes the cables, when i shoot cock vane up so now what do i do , switch to low profile vanes?
 

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Can we get a pic from behind the string of setup? Depending on cable guard your using you may need a different one or it needs to be adjusted for more clearance by rotating it. Barring some bizarre or severe finger release technique that would be yer issue.. :)

edit) Also, is yer guard down below in stabilzer hole position or up top above rest off the sight mount hole? Either is ok if you can adjust it to get more clearance. Put that cock vane down by all means if yours is on bottom. That way you can ask for as little cable guard use as possable and keep bow torque issue at minimum..
By the way, did you find this clearance issue by shooting with powder as suggested? What does it all look like with sliding arrow through its course backwards? Pics please..
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
ill get pictures up within the next couple of days,,,, but i didnt powder anything i just notices that when i draw back the vane lightly brushes against the cable , the person the i bought the bow from switched the whole cable gaurd to above the stabilizer so its at the sight mount, my realease stance is normal and im shooting with a tru fire realease .....untill pic's any suggestions wanted, ive thought possibly of lower profile vanes , i could buy a muzzy after market upper cable gaurd but then i would have to buy a new sight,(becasue the sight slides into the cable gaurd,,,very wierd , like dovetail rifle sights kinda) witch i dont have to money to do because i have a beretta extrema 2 on layway :smile: but i need to get my bow fixed also.
 

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I have five reasons why I use cable guard down low:

1. I don't want weight up top on my bow unleveling my bow side to side.
2. I use it to rest bow on my leg while resting.
3. The vintage of my sights and guard never seem to match and allow a high mount.
4. My cable mounted drop away cord slides down just shy of my cable slide which alleviates drop cord tension symtoms to only the one cable.
5. Just feels more natural.

..and three reasons why I constantly consider moving it up:

1. Want to try an STS
2. String contact slide point would be slightly closer to arrows allowing a smaller adjustment ;hence less bow torque
3. Think Martin recommends high mount


...think I'm stuck in limbo :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i very seriously thought about that too but i thought that it might affect the performance of my bow, is this true, i was never told thid just some stupid theroy in my head. id still have to buy a new sight and a lower 3/8 in cable gaurd but hey if it has to be done it had to be done, were could i find a lower cable gaurd for my bow, cant figure out how to post pictures ...computers not cooperating
 

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Tips for NAP QT drop away's!!!!!

I've seen the same problem with my drop away, but I've come up with some changes.
1. I serve it into the buss cable, trash the cable slide attachment. You do need to drill the hole out some!!!
2. I grind down the forks, to give more feather clearance, that was the biggest improvement I could have made :smile:
3. TIMING!!!!!!! I have the rest come up the last 1-2" of the draw cycle.
Here is a picture of the rest after the changes:
 

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grinding!!!

I'm not sure how much I ground down, just kind of eye balled it, but if I had to guess, probably about 1/4" maybe a little more. Here is the forks before grinding:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I sent my rest into nap after talking to a technical service guy, i sent it in yesterday after talking to him because yesterday when shooting to figure out my problem with clearance issue and the rest locked up on me, it stayed in the up position and didnt drop so i took the launcher positioin knob off the the sring flew out at me , so i explained that to the guy and he said they will fix it or replace it for free , great customer service , well thanks everyone for the tips and happy hunting bowhuntermitch
 

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NAP Quicktune 2000 Dropaway???

I just bought one Monday, and have sent about 300 shots through it and love it. Tightened my groups considerable, about 1" at 25 yds. now instead of 2.5-3"!! It did take a little tinkering, and needed to be timed right, but once I got it where I wanted it, it was perfect. Walk-back tuned to 50yds. with straight arrow flight, and a 3.5" group at 50yds instead of my usual 6-8" groups. It did take some very fine tuning, but I got it to drop just about 1.5" before the fletching, and it seem pretty good. My prongs look different than that ones posted in the pic though, may be a variation between that and the newer model. I can see where the activator cable could become a problem, and may end up modifying it, but I have little of no fletching problem, even when tuning/timing it. Cock Vane up seems to works best, with a slight rotation away from the riser. I originally looked into a shaky hunter, but the shop didn't have one, and I wanted to get one on sooner than later to see if I liked it. I do!!! My Pro-Shop guy told me that it is a "good" rest, but you have to take care of it, and tune it very finely.

Though moving from one of these: http://www.newarchery.com/arrowrests/centerestfl.asp

to one of these:
http://www.newarchery.com/arrowrests/qt2.asp

you'd expect me to be happy!!!
 

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Prongs!!!

The reason yours look different is because I've ground mine down to provide better feather clearance. :smile:
 
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