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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Several months back when I was setting my bow up, I went ahead and got some Easton Tracers from the local pro shop. I was advised not to activate them to preserve the battery life (just in case they came on in the case). I did so, and in preparation for season I took them out to get them activated and ready to go. Following the enclosed instructions, I couldn't for the life of me get them to respond. I have a pair of them, and I couldn't get either to even blink. Are there any special tricks to this? Any tips? The magnet is already mounted on the bow, but I wouldn't think that would matter. It'll be next week before I can get back to the pro shop to see if he'll help me out, but I'm hoping I can get them working before this weekend. Thanks for any input.
 

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If I remember correctly, hold the magnet next to Tracer and wait 5-6 seconds for it to blink and then quickly seperate the two.

If you are following the instructions for activating odds are they are duds. I have run into quite a few duds from a local Scheels store which then prompted the Scheels rep to test all that were remaining to find a few more that wouldn't "awake".

I have about 7 Tracers left. Next, I will be trying Firenocks!
 

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yeah I just bought some today that were junk... taking them back soon.
 

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The Tracers have worked flawlessly for me. Except for the battery life, which is not near the advertised 40 hrs. However, I did figure out how to replace the batteries w/ Thill nite lights. For those interested, I posted a how to in the DIY.
 

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Last year I had some that didn't work and I called Easton. I spoke with someone who acted like he new what he was talking about. He stated that the batteries have a 12 to 15 month shelf life. I did send the bad ones back and they sent me a new pack. This year, I bought a 4 pack at Bass Pro. Only one of the four worked. I sent them back, but I haven't tried the new ones yet. I did notice that this year's package states that they are made in China. They may have been made there last year, but I didn't notice it. Who knows when the batteries were made. When they do work- they really work well!! What I have read recently, the Fire Nocks are the best, and most expensive. I haven't tried them, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, that's not exactly what I wanted to here, truth hurts. The guy running the local pro shop (been giving him business for 10-15 years off and on) talked very highly of them. I trusted his opinion, and after failed Lumenoks I was ready for something better. I'm gonna take them back I guess, only downside is I purchased them a few months back, so not sure what he'll do. And yes, hold the nock 1/2 inch from the magnet for 5-6 seconds, it'll do a series of blinks to let you know it's active. I get no response at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After all this I was hoping for a refund/exhcange for firenocks. However, looks like I may be content with a trade on 2 working Eastons. Thanks, I was just making sure there wasn't something I have missed.
 

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I would continue to try and get a good set. IF you get ones that work they are the best lighted knock made. I have 8 and i got my first one that did not light this year. Other then that they are awesome.
 

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Buy some Firenocks and don't look back. I've just been playing with the Firenocks for a week or so and they are incredible. Can't speak as to the durability yet, but the brightness is awesome and the battery replacement is a snap and is cheap. Best I've seen yet.

Dawg
 

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Last year I bought a 4 pack of Tracers. Only 3 worked out of the pack. I too had a heck of a time turning them on and off. When "on" they lit on every shot. This year I take them out to practice with and only one works. I have Lumenocks on my arrows now. So far so good and they are brighter than the Tracers.
 

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I got 10 of them and only 4 worked. I tried them last year and did not have good luck with them but my boys told me they had worked all the issues out,:confused: apparently not. Stciking with the lumenoks work everytime and about 3 times brighter then the Tracers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That's funny, because I had Lumenoks and hated them. I had a pair of them. I used both shooting deer. They lit in the air, and as soon as they made contact the light went out, and then they simply will not come on again. Big waste of money for me. I really was excited about these, and if I can get a working set I'm sure I will continue to be, but right now I'm not a happy camper.
 

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ACC pro Hunters and other arrow with uni-bushings

It may be your arrow as you shot an ACC Pro Hunter. There is an uni-bushing in it. It not only make ANY lighted nock that is the same as X-nock size not work well; as you now have a spin balance issue due to uni-bushing. To make things worst, there is now NO support for the battery as it is allow to free dangle in the air. If you use any X-nock size lighted nock, as the battery is not supported, the battery will disengage from the system when shot at any target.

That is why we at Firenock advice all customer who use ACC Pro hunter to use our E nock which REQUIRE the removal of the uni-bushing. The lighted nock system are now lighter and more accurate.

To learn more about ACC Pro hunter the following will show you. I also provide the link to our FAQ if you wanted to learn more.

http://www.firenock.com/faqs.htm#09_3

Will any Firenock “G” series work with Easton uni-bushing system?
No Firenock can work properly when a Uni-Bushing is installed. All Firenock systems require multiple contact points on the inside wall of the arrow shaft. The Uni-Bushing system makes the multiple contact points impossible to achieve. If an arrow has a Uni-Bushing installed, the Uni-Bushing will need to be removed in order for the Firenock to work properly. Some people have tried to glue the circuit into the nock so that it would work in aluminum arrows, but the performance and results have been marginal at best. Thus we do not recommend that a Firenock system be installed in ANY arrow that has a Uni-Bushing system installed.

Will any Firenock “G” series fit Easton A/C/C Pro Hunter arrows?
Firenock "E" style nock is what is needed to fit the A/C/C Pro Hunter arrow. A/C/C Pro Hunter all have an ID of 0.227"and an OD of 0.270", 0.275", 0.280, and 0.285" for 440, 390, 340 and 300 size respectively. With the factory uni-bushing installed, it is very easy to think that a Firenock "A" style will fit as the Easton "X" nock is about the same size. This is not the case, in order for Firenock to work properly, the Firenock unit must make no less than 3 full circumference contacts with the inside wall of the arrow shaft. The presence of a Uni-bushing makes it impossible for Firenock to work properly. The circuit will fly out from the nock when shot at any object; the entire unit will also not be able spin balance inside the shaft. These are the only immediate issues that had been observed. Therefore in order to use Firenock in the A/C/C Pro Hunters, the uni-bushing must be removed. Since the uni-bushing used in the Pro-Hunter is glued in with very strong black glue, forcing it out is close to impossible, and heating the shaft will cause separating of the aluminum from the carbon layer. This leads to the only obvious solution, to cut it out. After the X nock is removed, cut the shaft at 0.375"; or 0.9" including the nock. The uni-bushing from the very tip to where it ends is ~0.325" or ~0.260" sleeve with a ~0.070" collar, and the X nock is ~0.63". Square the shaft and your ACC Pro Hunter shaft is ready to accept a Firenock "E" nock. Please note that there may be a tiny bit of polycarbonate to shave off from the shaft when you push in the Firenock "E" style nock the very first time, this is normal and part of the "E" nock's multi-diameter/size fit design.

Will any Firenock “G” series fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows?
With minor modification, the Firenock "GS" series nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows. Use a razor blade and shave off the 8 ridges on the nock cylinder. By shaving these ridges off, you will reduce the Outer Diameter (OD) of the nock to 0.2405" which would allow the Firenock to make better contact with the interior wall of the arrow shaft, 0.240".

Will any Firenock “G” series fit Easton A/C/C 3-49/390, 3-39/440 and 3-28/500 and Epic/Excel arrows?
To fit a lighted nock inside any shaft, the presence of uni-bushing will be detrimental to the arrow flight. There one must remove the uni-bushing and fit the nock inside the arrow tubing. After the tests, we concluded that Firenock 'E' style nock can fit all the following sizes with no, or some modifications. Firenock 'E' style design is based on an oversized Firenock "A" style mould which has a cylinder of 0.2047". Now with the 12 ridges being 0.0129" high each, it can easily be shaved to fit. Size as follows:
Epic/Excel has an inside diameter of ~0.232" or 5.92mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-49/390 has an inside diameter of ~0.230" or 5.86mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-39/440 has an inside diameter of ~0.220" or 5.56mm => Need to shave off half of all ridges to fit
A/C/C 3-28/500 has an inside diameter of ~0.205" or 5.21mm => Shave off all ridges to form a tube of 0.2055"
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmm, great info! Not sure if this applies to the tracer's as well, but you mentioned a spin balance issue when using the bushing and lighted nock. I'm having pretty horrible groups. Even at 20 yards I'm lucky to hold a group the size of a baseball. With a brand new bow setup, I'd expected much better. Could the lighted nock be the cause? I realize there are a ton of other factors that can effect my group. I'll say that I've shot for years as a kid, didn't shoot for a couple years, and now I'm getting back into it. I've blamed my poor groups on lack of practice, which very well be the case. However, since day one I've had the lighted nocks. All of my arrows have the Tracers (2 real, 4 of the dummy's). The pro shop locally is owned/ran by the same guy with no additional help. He's the only one around, so obviously he's been getting my business. He sold me the arrows and nocks, never mentioend potential issues. The nocks he demonstrated for me were out of the arrows. I'm really beginning to question the guy running the shop, but that's a different story (not just the nock thing, several other similar occurances). Thanks!
 

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ANY lighted nock

Not sure if this applies to the tracer's as well, but you mentioned a spin balance issue when using the bushing and lighted nock.
Absolutely it applies to any lighted nock. It is pure physics. When you have a battery that is not supported as there is an uni-bushing, it will not spin right as the battery is allow to free dangle inside the shaft.

Until the uni-bushing was removed, there is no way one can make contact with the uniform Internal diameter of the shaft. That is also the reason why we no longer even suggest using Firenock inside any uni-bushing system. If the arrow is not going to fly right with it, WHAT IS THE POINT of shooting at ANYTHING with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hmm, that is very interesting. I know I've tried my fuse stabilizer and a 11oz b stinger (12 inch), and groups were still horrible. However, since the practice nocks don't have the battery, it may throw off the nock excuse for poor groups. Not sure, but I'll be sure to notice differences. I've only fired like 2 shots with the actual lighted nocks, all other shooting was done with the practice nocks.
 

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Precison

Hmm, that is very interesting. I know I've tried my fuse stabilizer and a 11oz b stinger (12 inch), and groups were still horrible. However, since the practice nocks don't have the battery, it may throw off the nock excuse for poor groups. Not sure, but I'll be sure to notice differences. I've only fired like 2 shots with the actual lighted nocks, all other shooting was done with the practice nocks.
Tracer nock practises weight are hot glue into the nock. How precise you think it is? If I were you, I would spin test those arrows to see if it spin right. You may want to check out our FAQ page on lighted nock:zip: tuning tips too.

Sorry that you are having such bad luck with light nock.
 

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My local shop quit selling them, too many defectives !!! He gets close to 1 reject for every good one. The batteries die before they are even sold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I purchased my bow used, then went into the shop with what accessories I had and purchased the rest. He completely set the bow up, and I got absolutely everything I'd need for the hunt that day including broadheads and the lighted nocks. He timed the cams and paper tuned the bow. We only shot a couple times through paper, but it seemed to be perfect. I'll do the spin test later today when I get home, and I'll report my findings. I'm about ready just to ditch lighted nocks all together. The whole reason I have purchased these is because I wanted better consistancy than the homemade ones, looks like I was wrong though. I really appreciate all of your help. Thank you!
 
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