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Hi Guys, I have an 03 Hoyt Ultratec. 60-70lbs...set at 64#...27 1/2 inch draw length, with a 1/2 inch string loop. I am a 28 inch draw. Bow is a 27 to 29 1/2 inch model. 75 % let off. Hoyt stabilizer, NAP 2000 drop away rest, Vital bow gear 3 pin sight, sims vibration string leeches and sims limb silencers. I am shooting Easton XX78 2413 arrows @ 29 inches. My hunting setup on my Arrow is Easton 4 inch diamond vanes and a Wasp SST Hammer Broadhead 3 blade 125 grain. My bow was paper shot and was a bullet hole, (in May) and was shot about 2 ft. from the paper. I check all my arrows with a dial indicator...Arizona archery roller/straightner. For tru-ness and broadhead alignment to 1- 2 thousands. I shoot at 20-30-40- yards with broadheads.

I fletch all my arrows with a Bitz, and have a 3-4 degree right offset. My problem is that I go out and shoot real well and nail a quarter size dot at 20-30-and 40 yards. Then I go out the next day and am shooting 6 inches left at 30 yards. And 2" at 20 and more at 40. So I check all my arrows for nock alignment and true-ness and broadhead alignment and all is ok. I have bare shaft shot my setup, and at 20 yards I had bare shafts pretty much straight for left/ right alignment. The arrows were a bit nock high though. Every now and then I see my arrows yawing to the left when they come out of the bow. They seem to fishtail also. Is it my grip? I think and concentrate when shooting. Grip,anchor point, aim , stop pin , squeeze trigger and most importantly...Follow Thru...So I am kinda confused on this issue.I do not want to keep moving my sight. When I look at my arrow on the rest and align the pins up My arrow is to the right of the string and pins..meaning an overspine condition.. But I really don't think that I am Overspined.

Yesterday I shot 3 arrows with broadheads and 2 flew fine and 1 was way left. I inspected the arrow and found a seam near the vanes , was slightly hit by another arrow, So I discarded that arrow and was feeling ok about it, thinking that my left hits were because of that arrow. Today I go out and have the same situation, but all 3 arrows are all in line , and broadheads aligned too.

I got a can of foot powder spray to check for fletch clearance, but I haven't shot with the powder as of yet.

Any Help is Appreciated!!

Dave
 

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You might have better luck with 100 grain broadheads. I shoot GT arrows and Easton 2413's with 100 grain broadheads and have no problems. You might want to try shooting 3 arrows with field points and then mark your hits and then shoot three broadheads and see the difference. One more thing, I heard that this is a myth but I do it anyways, I line up my broadhead blades with my vanes. Hope this helps.............Bobby
 

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Make sure your rest is coming up in the last 2 or so inches of your draw. It should come up as late as possible while making sure the rest comes up to the top. Matt
 

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If it is fine one day and 6" left the next it is not something with your bow, it is something you are doing. I would bet it is grip related, but could be peep alignment.
 

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Deer Dave,
I would say that it is more likely that your spine is on the weak side, certainly not stiff.
When you say that your bow was paper shot, does that mean that someone else shot it? If so, you should shoot through paper your self and see how it shoots.
If you are uncertain about the spine, try lowering the poundage to see if it gets better, if it gets worse go the other way. You can do the same with point weight. Each person requires a different setup when it comes to bows, so one person cannot tune a bow for another.
Do you shoot with a peep sight? If not, your left/right problem could be caused by anchor differences. And bow hand grip could also be the culprit. Let your bow hang from the release and place your hand in the grip. Then apply some pressure back with your release hand and lift the bow to shooting position without gripping it at all. Make sure that your bow hand is completely relaxed throughout the shot. Aligning and Indexing broadheads can give you better groups but shouldnt cause your left/right problems, the same with fletch contact

Hope this helps,

Targetnut
 

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I hope I am experienced: National Staff Shooter for HOYT for at least a couple of years.

I have the same bow as you describe excepting mine has a 31" draw length and is 60# It has 3000 limbs and is set up the same excepting I have a 4000 drop away. The rest is set to come to full height 1 3/4" before full draw.

I am using Easton Evolution shafts 29" with the correct Easton inserts. The shafts are fletched with 3.80 Easton vanes set at about 2 to 3 degree offset. The broadheads are 100 gr. InnerLoc Broadheads. Dynamite combination. Shoots like a target bow.

Your description indicates an arrow not spined correctly for your bow, or you are wearing different clothing when you shoot. Whenever I add any clothing to my shooting attire, I find the added bulk makes my arrows impact to the left.

Using my AA program for my bow, (shoots like a dream) it tells me that you should be shooting a 2213 shaft with your draw length and poundage.

IMHO it appears you are trying to shoot broomsticks out of your bow.

The input I used for the AA set up was a presumption that your 27 1/2" arrow is the length of the raw shaft, and that your 28" draw length is measured from the handle of the bow to the string, not from the face.

I hope this helps, if you need further assistance email me.

Alaska Sam
 

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Inconsistency day to day sounds like a problem behind the bow, and not a problem with the bow. I myself have had problems time to time with "a bad day" where I couldn't group worth a darn when the day before I was bustin' nocks.
With a good papertune and generally good arrow flight, the occasional "fishtail" could easily be attributed to torquing the bow on the shot.

Generally, the Hoyt Tec C.5 bows will have the arrow rest pretty near centershot, which I believe is about 3/4" from the inside of the riser.

As the others have stated, you might be a bit overspined on your arrows.
 

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Dave- I have had days with the same condition and it was failure of my form. I go back in the house, do something else for a few minutes then start all over. Usually the issue cures itself.

When hunting season approaches I take ONE shot every morning on my way to my truck to go to work. I shoot it from my maximum hunting shot distance that I would take. I evaluate my performance for a week or so. If none of the arrows leave my acceptable area for that distance I do not mess with anything. It is important not to get tinkeridus right before opening day.
 

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I love your idea about one shot every morning AKDoug. Like a cold bore rifle shot! Great hunting practice.

I have the same bow. And shoot the same set up. (Minus 1" of draw and I shoot the 4000.)

I can't imagine the bow being this inconsistant. One note on the sight alignment, I've always heard that if your draw length fits you perfectly, then the pins will be in-line with the string. Pins left of the string indicate draw too long, right of the string draw too short. May be an old wives' tale but it's always been accurate for me. Also assuming that arrows are hitting the dot too.

You may wish to try helical feathers if you can't get it licked. I shoot feathers to hunt, because they seem to be more forgiving for my poor treestand form at times.:(
They tend to put more spin on the fixed blade broadheads, which helps eliminate planing.

Good luck. Hope this helps.
 

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are you sure you are centering your pin in your peep on each shot? could be the little stuff getting ya...;)
 

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Although I am new to ArcheryTalk, I have shot Hoyt products and have been on Nationial Shooting Staff for 5 years.

Currently I shoot the Ultra Tec in 28 inch 68 pound. The arrows that you have described, to me, seem to be overspined. I would reccment a 2213 or at the most a 2314.

Things that I would check first:

First you are shooting a fall away rest, is your rest dropping quick enough or is staying up too long.

Second With the thin grip on the Hoyt Tech line it is easy to get to much hand in. Make sure your form is good and is the same thing from day to day.


The bow that you have is a shooter, don"t give up on it.
 

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I agree with Oxford. I like to be able to see the pin housing and not much else through my peep.

The back of the grip, palm side, should rest just on the thumb side of the "lifeline" of your palm, according to the experts anyway. Just let your fingers relax around the grip so as not to put any pressure on one side or the other.

Works for me anywho.


;)
 

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You should take step by step approach to solve the problem, as there are scores of potential solutions to this situation. I will list the ones that have worked for me and others. Before I post my list, however, I must say that the description sounds suspiciously like a draw length/form issue to me. The list:

1-cams out of sync-look at the timing holes (not marks)on the Hoyt and line them up AT FULL DRAW.

2-arrow selection: I agree that your out of spine. Run AA again.

3-fletch contact: your offset is fine, but check FOC, I think your
tip weight is too much...

4-check how you torgue the bow with the release-how do
you hook up. Sounds like you are using a caliper. Are you
using eliminator buttons. A loop?

5-Finally FORM. IMHO this problem is commonly caused by a
long draw creating shoulder muscle involvement resulting
in left misses, at least it did for me exactly as you have
described. Hope this helps!!
 

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The first thing you should do is check EVERYTHING on your bow to make sure it's tight. Especially the cable guard. Minor movements in your cable guard can have a huge impact on your right/left impact. It could be rotating or slowly breaking.

How many times have you shot this bow. Have you ever changed the string? It could be breaking under the serving. Depending on which side of the string the strands are breaking, right/left impact could also be affected.

Then there are the obvious things, loose or out of level sight, and a loose arrow rest. What about the string silencers, and how about a peep with a tube. The more accessories on your string, the more to go wrong.

This sounds like a hunting setup. Are you keeping your arrows in a hip quiver, or attached to your bow? If so are you always having the same accessories attached to your bow.

Also, are your right/left problems with both field points and broadheads, or broadheads only. Do your broadheads wobble? That can be checked on the arrow straightner as well. Also, it is rare that an entire pack of broadheads will impact the exact same spot. Most times, there are a couple that have a very minor wobble. Those heads will impact the same place every time, but not necessarily in the group.


FYI: These are all things that have happened to me.
 

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Sometimes you have to watch that the little steel cable, that raises the rest, isn't making any contact with your vanes....... This is true especially with a hoyt because the cable has to bend around the TEC part of the riser, and is not in a perfectly stright line to the NAP cable slide......... I have had a this same problem with a couple bows, but it didn't seem to make contact every single time, just every few shots..... You can also hear the slapping noise if indeed they are making contact......... Just something to look at......... Let us know how it goes.......
 

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You are "peeking" or pushing your hand away from your face/anchor or maybe even pushing you bow hand/arm at the target. Follow through with every shot and aim until the arrow is in the target. If you are using a release, shoot the bow with only your finger on the trigger. Sometimes when my wife is "off" it looks like she is is punching, pushing and moving her hand away from her face all at the same time. Target panic!!
 

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Could be as simple as your sight moving. Sounds like it's that type of consitancy. Remember the further the distance you shoot the more its amplified as well.

I must not have tightened my CopperJohn Deadnuts down enough and it moved on me. I was having the exact same situation as you. I moved it back, sighted in, locked it down really well. It's been fine ever since. Even tested it in the feild for the past 2 days.

Today I took shots at judged distances at dead leafs on the side of a sanded ATV trail. Everything was on.;)
 

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If it is your form I would look at your grip and bow arm. I had the same problems with shooting to the left, straight one day left the next or straight with the odd flyer to the left.
I have an 03 Ultratec, XT2000, C.5 @31.5"

After reading one of Oxfords posts re bow grip I was able to get all my arrows away from the left and shooting straight. Oxford has now gone over to the "dark side" now so I would be wary of anything he posts.

I was gripping the bow with my top two fingers with my knuckles on a 45 degree angle. My grip with the top two fingers was too tight and this tensed up my bow arm. I changed to just holding it with my top finger and also straightening out my thumb. This completely relaxed my bow arm and straight shootswere the results. I think the smaller grip on the 03 caused my thumb to curl around the grip a bit more.

I have had the problem for several years and it was nice to work out what it was. My shooting is considerablely better now and very consistent.

Hope this is of some use to you and thanks Oxford.
 

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I believe I would have to try another arrow and rest combo.

Process of elimination.

I have had some bows that just would not shoot broadheads.

My Ultratec puts them right where my fieldpoints hit everytime.

I'm using a Bodoodle Pro-lite rest and CX 200 arrows with 4" feathers.

It's unreal at the speed and accuracy with this setup.
 

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I am not pro but I have spent many hours with a 03 hoyt and know there ins and outs. I would paper tune the bow and see what it does. the fact that it shoots awsome on day and bad the next one possibility is your grip or anchor changing from one day to the next.

I found that if I didnt shoot my bow atlest 3 times a week that on Sunday I would have to shoot 2 dozen to warm up and until I was warm I got high right shots. It was my anchor it took me a little while to get in the groove again.

This is just an option I would not rule out hardware.

Roger Stout
 
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