PSE marks them, if there aren't any, you just mix and match until you get it right. Have to do algebra though.

 

Limb deflection is how stiff is a limb. Hoyt puts codes on each limb, and the stiffness rating is the code.
PSE uses different stiffness limbs in each limb pocket. Some PSE bows use two different limb stiffness ratings,
meaning 3 limbs are equal stiffness and the 4th limb is a different stiffness. Long ago, PSE used 3 different limb stiffness ratings, meaning three limbs would be DIFFERENT strengths and the fourth limb would match the stiffness rating for ONE of the three limbs. So you can imagine how EASY you could SCREW up the assembly of the bow,
when only two limbs are the same strength rating and limb #3 was a different strength rating and limb #4 was yet a different strength rating. SUPER easy to put the limbs on the wrong limb pocket.

So, hoyt is supposed using 4 limbs all the same strength rating.

So, what if the limbs are NOT EXACTLY the same strength.
What if the limbs are not in the correct limb pocket?
What if we have a LEFT paper tear?
Well, IF you had yoke legs you would ADD a twist to the LEFT yoke leg, meaning we want the LEFT limb to bend down MORE.

BUT all the Hoyt limbs have the same number code.
IGNORE the number codes.

BUT I got a LEFT paper tear. Now what do I do, if all the Hoyt limb codes are exactly the same?

Swap the two upper limbs left to right.
TEST again and see if the LEFT paper tear gets better or worse.

 

If swapping the two upper limbs left to right does not change anything,
then, the two limbs are TRULY the same deflection and you do NOT have a deflection difference.

So, the NEXT thing you do,
is you shim the top cam MORE to the LEFT end of the top axle,
with a custom shim kit.

 

Very similar to shaft spine deflection.
Given weight applied limbs are scored
Then based on the company design the limbs are configured as needed. There are tolerance spreads.

 

Before you swap anything. Call Hoyt and get their deflection sequence for the bow you have. On Elites I run the heaviest limb on top top, next highest bottom right, and the third highest top left and lowest bottom left. On a Mathews Trx36, I run two heaviest on bottom with the higher of the two on bottom left. Just swapping limbs doesn’t always fix the issue. Sometimes makes no difference at all. The load you put on cable rod, the cam lean you run, and even the amount of weight on bars all play a part. If someone has a bad tear and can’t get it out, they say swap the limbs. In some cases, it’s true, in other cases, it’s simply a tuning issue. But most times I’d limb deflection is an issue, you will here about it and read about it. If you are not, then it’s not an issue most times. What issues are you having with your bow? I’ve seen guys that run a drop away rest ( limb driven) fight and tune and nothing gets out a high tear , and they swear it’s limb deflection, but it ends up being a simple movement of where cord is tied to the limb. Some bows want tune a limb driver with cord close to tips. Some want tune with cord in middle.

 

basically the cams are shimmed all the way to the left and I still have to run the bow at 5/8ths to clean up the left tear completely. I’ve had three different bowtechs shoot it through paper to verify it wasn’t just me. Running a QAD HDX