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Extremely High Miss When Bare Shaft Tuning

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I'm hoping someone can look at the below paper tuning results and tell me what I'm doing wrong. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I've been shooting/hunting for a few years. This year is my first stab at tuning myself. I've been bare shaft paper tuning my bow. Out of a dozen or so shots, 2 shots missed way high. After the second high miss, I noticed my felt covering on my QAD ultra rest hunter was messed up as if it was hit. These are new arrows I just purchased (second hand). When bare shafting, I add a little lead tape about 1" from the nock in the exact weight of my fletching. I'm thinking the lead tape may have hit the rest causing the extremely high miss.

Please see below photo of bare shaft arrow results followed by fletched arrow results. The 2 very top shots are from the high misses. The right high miss looks weird because the arrow actually hit the 2x4 that is the top frame of my paper tune stand.

The fletched arrow results are generally ok, just nock high for the most part.

I'm standing about 4-5 yards from the paper.
  • Hoyt power max
  • 29" draw
  • 65 lb
  • QAD ultra rest hunter
  • East axis, 300 grain with 75g grain insert, 100 grain field point.
  • Tru fire hardcore release
Bare Shaft Results
Tree Wood Road surface Asphalt Font


Fletched Arrow Results
Road surface Grey Asphalt Tints and shades Landscape
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doubtful your tape is hitting the rest if the fletching isn’t. the rest should be down long before the tail end of the shaft gets there. verify your rest timing, center shot, arrow level thru the berger hole, and your cam timing is good and then move closer to about 6 feet and see what kind of tear you get with the bare shaft. out of curiosity do you shoot fixed blade broad heads?
 

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PSE Mach 34 - Athens Vista 31
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I don’t shoot through paper anymore. I feel it is a waste of time.

Assuming your bow is within specs, timed, and your rest is at center shot.

I use one bare shaft arrow and shoot it at a foam target (that can’t move) at 20 yards. You might start at 10 yards.
I “nock tune” the bare shaft by marking where the nock in on the arrow and the turning the nock 1/4 turn until I get the least amount of tail up, down, right, or left. Then I mark that well, so I always shoot the bare shaft with the same orientation.

Then I shoot one fletched and the bare shaft at 20 yards, trying to get them impacting the same place and parallel.
I raise or lower my rest to fix tail high or low first.
Then I shim the cams or if not far off, bump the rest a little to fix tail right or left.

When my fletched arrow and bare shaft are impacting in the same place and parallel at 20 yards, my bow is tuned.
 

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I don’t shoot through paper anymore. I feel it is a waste of time.

Assuming your bow is within specs, timed, and your rest is at center shot.

I use one bare shaft arrow and shoot it at a foam target (that can’t move) at 20 yards. You might start at 10 yards.
I “nock tune” the bare shaft by marking where the nock in on the arrow and the turning the nock 1/4 turn until I get the least amount of tail up, down, right, or left. Then I mark that well, so I always shoot the bare shaft with the same orientation.

Then I shoot one fletched and the bare shaft at 20 yards, trying to get them impacting the same place and parallel.
I raise or lower my rest to fix tail high or low first.
Then I shim the cams or if not far off, bump the rest a little to fix tail right or left.

When my fletched arrow and bare shaft are impacting in the same place and parallel at 20 yards, my bow is tuned.
if he shot a bare shaft at 10 or 20 yards he’d be searching for it in the trees
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’d start from the very beginning and rework everything if I were in your shoes. First thing first, what’s the length of your arrow and also what spine are you shooting?


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It’s 29”, carbon to carbon and 300 spine. (I accidentally wrote 300 grain in the post.) With a 100 grain field points it’s 500 grains total.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
doubtful your tape is hitting the rest if the fletching isn’t. the rest should be down long before the tail end of the shaft gets there. verify your rest timing, center shot, arrow level thru the berger hole, and your cam timing is good and then move closer to about 6 feet and see what kind of tear you get with the bare shaft. out of curiosity do you shoot fixed blade broad heads?
I prefer fixed but have shot a little of both.

Cam timing is perfect. Center shot is very close.
I have never looked at rest timing so I’ll check this.
My arrow is well above the Berger hole so I’ll adjust this next. Thanks for the advice.
 

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I prefer fixed but have shot a little of both.

Cam timing is perfect. Center shot is very close.
I have never looked at rest timing so I’ll check this.
My arrow is well above the Berger hole so I’ll adjust this next. Thanks for the advice.
center of the berger hole is just a starting point, some people may end up higher, some people may end up lower, but you generally want some of the arrow thru the hole.
for example some people prefer to run the bottom of the arrow at the height of the center of the berger hole.
 

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I'm hoping someone can look at the below paper tuning results and tell me what I'm doing wrong. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I've been shooting/hunting for a few years. This year is my first stab at tuning myself. I've been bare shaft paper tuning my bow. Out of a dozen or so shots, 2 shots missed way high. After the second high miss, I noticed my felt covering on my QAD ultra rest hunter was messed up as if it was hit. These are new arrows I just purchased (second hand). When bare shafting, I add a little lead tape about 1" from the nock in the exact weight of my fletching. I'm thinking the lead tape may have hit the rest causing the extremely high miss.

Please see below photo of bare shaft arrow results followed by fletched arrow results. The 2 very top shots are from the high misses. The right high miss looks weird because the arrow actually hit the 2x4 that is the top frame of my paper tune stand.

The fletched arrow results are generally ok, just nock high for the most part.

I'm standing about 4-5 yards from the paper.
  • Hoyt power max
  • 29" draw
  • 65 lb
  • QAD ultra rest hunter
  • East axis, 300 grain with 75g grain insert, 100 grain field point.
  • Tru fire hardcore release
Bare Shaft Results
View attachment 7742221

Fletched Arrow Results
View attachment 7742216

Can't see the pics myself, but from the description I'm thinking you are getting fletching contact [bad rest timing], possibly shown by the damaged felt on the launcher, and the fact you mentioned a nock high with the fletched while the bare shafts are hitting high [indicating a nock low]. My guess, the tune is based more or less on the bad flight of the fletched, and the bare shaft is showing more of what is really going on. I would explore rest timing, followed by checking cam sync/rest/nock heights... The info to me would suggest a rest high/nock low set up that needs addressing... IMO if it were the bare shaft tape hitting the launcher, the bare shaft would fly nock high./impact low. Again, it sounds to me as if the bare shaft is more true and the fletched flight is wonky due to contact.
 
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Hoyt Satori
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Not that this is your issue, but I do get the odd arrow that just won't fly. Probably not that bad though. This does sound like the tape/rest issue others have alluded too. And don't get too carried away with paper. You're an imperfect human, flinching is a thing, and the results through paper can be maddening.
I'm on the same bus with Old Guy shooting into an immovable foam target and making adjustments there based on tail position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think I found the issue by using foot spray. My fletching/nock was hitting my rest AFTER it had deployed, I.e it was hitting the bottom of my rest. Evidentially my nock point was way too low or my rest was tilted too high.

Next issue: 🙃 my serving at my nock point is already frayed/broken. The strings are winners choice, about 2-3 months old.

Does anyone know typical causes for fraying brand new servings?

1. Could the rest issue described above be the culprit?

2. Could it be the new nocks from my new arrows? They’re the conventional green nocks that come on the Easton axis.

3. Could it be caused by nock pinch?

4. Can anyone recommend a repair method formy serving at the nock point?

Thanks gentlemen. You may make a bow tuner of me yet!
 

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I think I found the issue by using foot spray. My fletching/nock was hitting my rest AFTER it had deployed, I.e it was hitting the bottom of my rest. Evidentially my nock point was way too low or my rest was tilted too high.

Next issue: [emoji854] my serving at my nock point is already frayed/broken. The strings are winners choice, about 2-3 months old.

Does anyone know typical causes for fraying brand new servings?

1. Could the rest issue described above be the culprit?

2. Could it be the new nocks from my new arrows? They’re the conventional green nocks that come on the Easton axis.

3. Could it be caused by nock pinch?

4. Can anyone recommend a repair method formy serving at the nock point?

Thanks gentlemen. You may make a bow tuner of me yet!
1. did you fix the contact issue? no rest contact won’t fray the center serving.

2. the nock shouldn’t cause separation, in my experience separation comes from the d loop over time.

3. to check for nock pinch remove a field point from an arrow and draw back. if the arrow doesn’t lift off the rest no nock pinch. if you have heavy inserts in the arrow you’ll want to remove that too or just use any arrow with a light insert or no insert that uses the same nock as what you’ll be shooting.

4. you could take it to a shop and have them reserve the center serving for you or you could buy some serving material and reserve yourself
 
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